Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Mitsubishi => Topic started by: Evilgoat on April 17, 2006, 14:00:30
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My father is trying to seperate the above item plus remove the pitman arm and idler assembly as the nice MOT man said they were junk.
I know nothing about Mitsi's so I dont know how correct this is :)
Haynes manual says they should just pop off, but obviously this means using the kind of force needed to lug a tank into orbit. A balljoint spiltter isnt helping as they are awkward to get at.
Anyone have any ideas?
Rich
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To remove the bottom ball joints,Think it is the same as the same as the 2.5, awkward job but you will have to remove steering ball joints, top ball joints and brake calipers.
Dont try to do it without removing the others it wont work.
You need a ball joint seperator that wont damage the gaitors as well, it is fairly straight forward.
good luck
P.S. if your Father checks on the Pajero owners club he will find all the info he will need. www.pocuk.com
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to remove the pitman arm, make a vertical cut with an angle grinder, but dont go too far with it as not to cut the spline, it should then lever off
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let us know how you get on mate.Or if you need any more info.
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Pitman arm took :
Balljoint puller.
Hammer
Balljoint puller + Blowlamp
Balljoint puller plus blowlamp then frozen
Hacksaw
And finally industrial angle grinder. I'll post a pic of whats left later
Now we have separated the lower balljoint but for the life of us we cant work out how to get the sod out without dissasembling the whole hub carrier, problem being the top balljoint will probobly be destroyed removing it.
Any ideas guys?
I'm actually now about 10 mins from giving up. Haynes say pull the driveshaft and that just isnt going to happen.
Doing drivers side atm, not got as far as passenger.
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it really isnt as bad as it seems (sorry only just found this) it doesnt take that long.
You just disconnect drive shaft from hub to release the disc 10mins. max
if you got a good seperator the ball joint at the top pops off without damage, it looks and sounds worse than it is.
Dont use the wedge type seperator that you hit with hammer as this will damage it, use the type that you tighten a nut to pop it out.
Mine just about fell out when i released the nut.
Graham
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I think thats the way to go, it just adds insult to injury that both manuals are totally wrong.
I'm leaning towards what ou say, I cant see that the top joint will be a problem as its not a load bearing componant where the top is. Upper wishbone should be for lateral alignment and camber?
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As you say manuals arent much good.
It is an awful amount of work just to change the bottom ball joints, as it looks like you can get them off without all the other work, but i tried (you did too probably) to do it with out all that, it just takes up time and in the end you have to remove everything.
You think thats bad wait till you do the cam belt, oh!! yours 2.8 no cambelt.
anyway after youve done this nothing will seem much of a problem.
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The lower swivels on the Isuzu came fairly easy with two of us. It's a similar setup.
Lift the vehicle on to stands/blocks and take the wheels off.
Leave the 4 bolts holding the swivel to the lower arm on and the nuts tight for now. Place a bottle jack underneath the lower arm and jack it up until that side just lifts off the stand. One person to hold a bar to force the top arm down to do away with slack and the other one to hit the outside of where the bottom swivel goes through with a large hammer (2 - 3 sharp blows) and it will pop off.
Undo the bolts going through the free wheeling part of the hub and take away the cover and you will see the end of the drive shaft. It's held in place with a circlip. Take the circlip off and push the drive shaft towards the engine as far as it goes. This will move it enough for the 2 bolts nearest the wheels to come out just behind the boot on the driveshaft. Lower the jack.Undo the top swivel nut and give it a few sharp taps to free the 'hub carrier'. One person then lifts it as high as he can and turn it slightly and the other to pull the bottom swivel out and put the new one in. Place the bolts back in to align the holes on the plate and then place the nut on the top swivel to hold the carrier (you may have to jack the bottom arm). Place the nuts on all bolts and tighten. I had to replace the split pins on mine as they were too far gone to reuse them.
No need to take everything off :wink:
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All done guys, thank everyone for their help.
Drivers side took 3 days
Once we kneww what we were up against passenger side took 2 hours :)
Just need to do the same on the vit now tomorrow. :S