Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Defender => Topic started by: MTyrrell on October 03, 2005, 17:27:42
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I have been offered a 200tdi from a disco.
It's still in the car at the moment and I have got the first pick of parts from it, what else should I get for a 110 tdi conversion?
So far got rad, intercooler as well as the engine ant the ancillaries.
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You are going to have to alter the down pipe or turbo.
Have a a word with V8Redline (Mikee) and he'll know what to do!
Also you need to move the mounts I think. I'll try and find some of the old threads for you :wink:
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You can get a custom made downpipe from Steve Parkers, try and get the glow plug relay and wiring, you will need the high pressure steering box to pump hose, the intercooler cos it's easier to fit once the low pressure PAS hose is moved to fit, apart from that most bits are either Defender or custom made, don't bother with the oil cooler hoses, they are too short!
I'm still in the process of fitting my disco tdi to my 90, waiting for parts on back order :-(
Stef
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if its a diesel 110 you are converting then the wire will already fit,on my tdi i remade the fuel pipes to & from the pump using the origanal conectors but with rubber fuel hose,
for the pas got a hydrolic hose made up for the pressure side & had to purchase the corecct fitings for the box-hose (small adapter inbetween)
dont bother with the oil cooler hoses as they are 2 short & also really expensive if you can get them,i used to blanking plugs i aquired from a heating engineer & screwed them in the hole,
exhaust-now the fun starts :lol: you can either make your own down pipe & work your way back,if your gonna do that i found heating the turbo manifold with the oxy bottles till its cherry makes the weld less likely to crap when you mig it,if not buy the down pipe from steve parker
if i can think of anything else ill post back
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Here's the ready made downpipe from Steve Parkers, heat bandaged up before fitting, and a picture of the bend which then sleeves straight on to the original pipe. Pic of the re-used fuel pipes like V8_redline7500 suggests. I have loads more pics too if anything specific is required.
Stef
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Thanks for the info, will be going to have a look at the engine tomorrow to make sure it's sound. From a K plate disco with a 115 thou on the clock.
I've been thinking, which is dangerous, would it be as easy to swap the exhaust manifold for a defender one with a defender turbo to save the custom down pipe? Or is that a daft idea and I should stop been a tight fisted git and get the exhaust section from Steve parkers.
......I vote for the latter.
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if you can get a def inlet manifold ,exhaust manifold & turbo id advise you to swap it as this will do away with the custom pipe,
however to buy them new your talking £500+ & 2nd hand non existent,if you can get the def set up do it but they are really hard to come by
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I've heard that it is not just a straight swap for the exhaust and inlet manifolds and turbo.
The downpipe although at £105 + VAT/DEL is pricey, it does save a lot of time and hassle, and fits beautifully.
I've uploaded a load more pics to the mods page on my 90 website
http://www.90county.co.uk
Stef
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if you can get a def inlet manifold ,exhaust manifold & turbo id advise you to swap it as this will do away with the custom pipe,
however to buy them new your talking £500+ & 2nd hand non existent,if you can get the def set up do it but they are really hard to come by
You'll also find that the front cover set up is completely different...
so to add to that list you'd need:
defender spec front cover,
defender spec water pump,
defender spec alternator set-up,
defender PAS pump and brackets,
AFAIK the injector pump pipe work is also different, as pump sits in a slightly different place on the front cover
And probably a few other bits....
Ian
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Thought it wouldn’t be worth it. New defender parts ore expensive and second hand one are imposable to find. Thanks anyway
I went to have a look at the enginethis afternoon. It was still in the disco so had a chance to hear it running. Was on top of a shipping container at the back of the yard by the looks of things it had been there a while. The battery was dead and the throttle cable was jammed. Don’t think it had been started for a while. Put a new battery on it and it started first time, doesn’t smoke or breath. With a bit of luck I may have a Tdi by the weekend.
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Good luck Matt. Need to finish the cambelt change tomorrow, then hopefully I can fire mine up for the first time this weekend!!
Stef
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I've got me a 200tdi,\:D/ Waiting for the chap to remove it from the disco then I can start fitting it. Just need to go and grovel to my old boss to let me use the back of the warehouse to fit it in the warm and dry now.
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Good luck Matt. Need to finish the cambelt change tomorrow, then hopefully I can fire mine up for the first time this weekend!!
Stef
Good luck getting yours running, Hope it fires up first time.
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Fired mine up for the first time on Friday, started first time, been sat since March. Had a water leak from behind the thermostat housing and it proceeded to pump all the oil out of the cooler pipes.
The pipe part numbers which correspond to the LR parts CD I have are wrong as they don't tighten enough when screwed in to the oil filter block.
Took the old Discovery pipes to my local Pirtek yesterday morning and they extended them for me for about £18. Fitted a new thermostat and the two gaskets, then started again.
No oil leaks but a water leak appeared behind the thermostat housing again. Took the PAS pump brackets off and found a couple of bolts loose, tightened those up, let it tick over until normal temperature, revved it a bit and all OK. EXCEPT the bloody thing won't go into gear!! :x
I'm hoping it's just the slave cylinder or something as it had a new clutch fitted before I bought it and I replaced the bearing and fork. I'll take the slave cylinder out today and check that I can move the clutch fork in and out freely, otherwise the damn engine will have to come out again!!
I'd highly recommend the exhaust heat shield bandage that I used to wrap the manifold, turbo and downpipe, as the downpipe comes close to the bulkhead, brake/clutch pipes and starter. The stuff is that good, when the temp guage is halfway you can touch the exhaust manifold and turbo!!
Now let's just hope this clutch isn't a major issue.................................
Stef
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i didnt bother with the heat rap after the first incident :evil: but now even after spending hour n 1/2 on the motorway at full throttle i wouldnt say the underbonnet temps aren't that high,
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Well, after removing the slave cylinder and poking around I decided the fork wasn't moving as it should and I've now removed the engine.
Sure enough the U shaped clip that holds the fork to the bearing had popped off and one of the little prongs on the bit that holds the slave cylinder push rod to the fork has broke too, typical on a bloody Sunday and all!!
So now I'm kind of back to square one!!
Stef
P.S V8_redline7500 what was the issue with the heat wrap?
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instead of heat wrapping the exhaust i decided to put the wiring up the inside of a heat reflective sleeve so it wouldnt short out on the manifold & catch fire like it did the first time round :oops:
fitted the sleeve & then discovered the "tinfoil" was shorting out the wire terminals & causing all sorts of weird things to happen on the dash,so whipped that of & decided to run without
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Hooray, the engine is now back in the 90 and the clutch is fixed, where the engine had been stood for a while the clutch disks must have stuck together, I replaced the slave cylinder and plastic fiddly bits then found that I could change gear when the engine was off, but not with it started, so I put it in to first gear, clutch down and started, there was a slight jolt and the clutch plates were free'd, now all OK!! :)
Took it out for a short test drive and it pulls like a train especially compared to my old 2.5 petrol engine!
All I need to do now is find a permanent home for the air filter 'cos it won't fit where it used too (suggestions?) and also the temperature sender is displaying the temp at max.
Does anyone know off hand if the sender from a 2.5 petrol (which is what it was) will fit the 200Tdi, if not any other suggestions?
Stef
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All I need to do now is find a permanent home for the air filter 'cos it won't fit where it used too (suggestions?) and also the temperature sender is displaying the temp at max.
Does anyone know off hand if the sender from a 2.5 petrol (which is what it was) will fit the 200Tdi, if not any other suggestions?
Airfilter,made mine up using a tdi filter & making a bracket to mount of the front inner wing where the rad support goes,
Sender,unless you fancy taping the hole out to take a disco 1 IMHO id fit a tims guage from say halfrauds or demon tweeks,mines currently has a N/A diesel sender & sits at the bottom of the red at norm temp & at the top when the fan kicks in,gonna fit a tims guage when i get round to it as i know it will be ok as is the now
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So are the temp senders sizes different between a Defender and Discovery 200 TDi? Mine is a Disco engine.
Stef
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they are the same size but a different thread,ones fine the others coarse,i have access to a drawer full of senders at work that i could try but gonna fit a actual temp guage mainly for ease of fitment
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This may be a daft question, but how comes a Timms or other guage will work, where as the standard LR one reads different? Would a temp guage from a 200 TDi Defender work correctly?
Stef
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the 200 tdi def would read corect but is the coarse thread,the disco one is a fine thread,(spent ages trying to get a fine plug in a coarse hole) :oops:
the tim's one comes with a range of adapters with differnt threads
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Thanks matey, your a wealth of info, and one last question, what size are the guages in the 90, too lazy to go and measure it!!
Stef
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52mm i think,basically go into halfrauds,find the guages & the boost guages are the same size as the standard landy guages
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Went to pick the engine up this morning just need to fit it now \:D/ \:D/ \:D/
I need to find a way of getting it out the back of the landy to give it a clean before I fit it., time to start being nice to my boss so I can use the stacker truck I think.
Interesting point about the temp sender. Out of curiosity what’s the difference between the sender on the old 2.5 engines and the TDi to give a high reading dose the TDi run hotter?
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the difference between the sender's is the thread,on a def tdi it has a coarse thread & on a disco TDi it has a fine thread,cant remember who i was talking to about this the other day but thats the differance,If you buy a tims capillary guage it "should" come with a few adapters to fit the fine thread
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the difference between the sender's is the thread,on a def tdi it has a coarse thread & on a disco TDi it has a fine thread,cant remember who i was talking to about this the other day but thats the differance,If you buy a tims capillary guage it "should" come with a few adapters to fit the fine thread
Do'h already said that above
the senders are matched to the guages,if you had the time & patience you "could" buy/beg.steal.borrow all the fine threaded senders that landrover make & eventually find one that fits & also gives the correct movement,But i aint got the patience or time lol
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I've just bought a Tim electronic temp guage which I'll fit on Saturday, I'll let you know what it's like.
Stef
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Fitted the Tim temp gauge, runs around 90 degrees and all working fine. Have a tiny slight leak from the coolant sensor, I'll keep an eye on it and re-seal if necessary, apart from that, been driving the 90 all weekend and everything is good!
Stef
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Stef
Have you got a picture of the fabricated down pipe pressure side and mod pipes to bottom intercooler???It would really help me as i am nearley finshed, i have only got to get Oil feed pipes to Rad extended by an hose firm by about 6 Inches and then cut exaust to fit down pipe...Ps did you have to remove the whole exuast to cut it down??
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I bought the downpipe ready made from Steve Parker Landrovers http://www.steve-parker.co.uk/site.html click on exhausts.
I can take some pictures of the intercooler pipes, but won't be able to until tomorrow, then I'll email or post them.
Stef
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Steff no i mean the Pipes off the bottom of the Turbo then continues along to bottom of the Intercooler i am having probs with the rubber hose off the bottom of the Turbo caching on inner wing in Engine bay
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v348/timberdog/Picture706.jpg)
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Ahh, right, I'm with you now. I'll take some tomorrow and post them on here.
Stef
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Cheers mate
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OK, here are some pics of the hoses coming from the turbo, basically a cut down 45 degrre bend, then sleeved with a short metal tube to another angle, then piped and hosed to the intercooler.
The hose from the air filter to the turbo is basically a Discovery hose, joined with a Defender flexi hose, lots of cursing, sweating and swearing as you try and bend it under the PAS pump/alternator brackets!!
:wink:
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........and a couple more
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Timberdog, the exhaust front section (downpipe to silencer) is all you should need to remove. I re-used some of the exhaust that I cut off to make a join in the top intercooler hose.
Stef
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Stef
I have the Cionverstion Kit form S.Parkers so all i need to do is cut Exaust pipe to go into Converstion down pipe ..but you have just given me an idea for top intercooler pipe use the Old 2.5 TD Down pipe for it as no need with converstion downpipe..
Thank you for the photos they help great...were did you get flexy hose from Turbo (gatered one).
Ps i have now taken the slack out of the PSP Pump belt in the order of doing things but the Alternator belt seesm to be too slack still or the belt is the wrong part number i was given a Dayco make part number printed on belt is : 3AO725C THEN 6800 THEN 4 101030 Is this the right number?
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The flexi hose was the old one from the 2.5 petrol engine which comes from the top of the air filter then joins a Discovery air filter to turbo solid hose.
Not sure on the belt number as I have thrown away all the packing, sorry!
Stef