Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Series Land Rovers => Topic started by: Miniman on October 30, 2005, 13:41:18
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I was wondering if it is possible to convert a range rover axel to free wheeling hubs with the old landys units.
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no
a rangie axle has 5 bolts that hold the drive flange/stubby
a series has 6 :wink:
square peg,round hole
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Dam why did you have to say that...... Alot of modification then.....
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If you can convert a rangy axle to a series how about reverse technology :wink:
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I dont understand what you mean reverse tec ! :shock:
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My mistake though this posting was on the rr forum, what about where the hubs bolt onto the axle, are they different as well as the hubs on the two types?
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I think that is what he is on about. They are different on the early defender to the discovery. I found this out last week. Only the holes are just slightley out of line.
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AFAIK the hubs are different,the swivesl use a different set up,the shafts are different lengnths,put it this way it would be easier to fit rangie axles (Big job) to a series than it would make free wheeling hubs fit a rangie axle,
also not only is there the why :? but the rangie axles are considerably wider than the series so would make the hubs stick out by miles,wouldnt be too bad on road but offroad i dont think they would last long in ruts,
sorry to shoot the idea down :wink:
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Well let me put it this way wanting a wider track is the whole point. STABILITY at high speed. Not just that free wheeling hubs are a must on a series....Fuel economy. I have some 90 axel and was wondering if it's possible to change the CV joints to fit. Just a question. I wa not thinking when I put the post up. 90 axels....
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the thing is that a series uses a uj & a def/rangie/disco all use cv joints,these are larger in external size so wont fit in the hole i think,
im not dissiing the track thing,yeh wider is better but think about the width of a rangie axle + free wheeling hubs which will stick out the ends,see what i mean now,
the cv joints wont be able to be used with free wheelinh hubs anyway,have you opened them up & had a look??? its different splines & setups etc,
also theres not alot of difference between a rangie axle & a 90 axle,thers small differences that i could be here all night explaining but in the genral term of things rthey are pretty much the same
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Oh well. Was worth asking. Thought it was a possibility. Ok shot down in flames..... :lol:
Will have to keep old ones.....dam
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Not just that free wheeling hubs are a must on a series....Fuel economy.
pardon, i think they are he biggest wast of space inthe bloody world, they are so usless, you get stuck, then you got to get out and twist your nobs so that you can have 4 wheel drive, no, no no, series vehicle arn't that economical so whats the point of saving like 5% on every 100 miles, they are stupid, unless you love getting stuck and then dirty to try and get yoour self out,
i say, either have them and just use your vehicle on the road, ok, then maybe, or just fit rangie axles for stability, plus better gearing if you fit the diffs, however, may need a better engine that isn't underpowered like the old series!!
just my opinion though
me xxx
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Also this was always my uncles opinion when he ran series.
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Er my series is fitted with 90 diffs and fast and economical....
you save more than 5% trust me I know. Also I love my series...and its diesel.... :lol:
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The v8 l/w is the same got rangy diffs in, goes great, just need to overhaul the brakes now :lol:
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you get stuck, then you got to get out and twist your nobs so that you can have 4 wheel drive
your supposed to engage the hubs before you go offroad!
Not just that free wheeling hubs are a must on a series....Fuel economy.
i reckon mine save me about 10%, and thats not counting the saving on wear and tear on the front axle, and the reduced vibration, reduced noise and lighter steering.
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i reckon mine save me about 10%, and thats not counting the saving on wear and tear on the front axle, and the reduced vibration, reduced noise and lighter steering.
Don't tell me that you have never forgotten to engage them! :wink:
I took them off my series 1, because I didn't think that the small fuel/steering benefits were worth the hassle and the potential damage.
I didn't really notice the difference, but then it does very few miles.
You do need to engage FWH's every so often even on the road, because otherwise the hubs don't benefit from the spalsh oiling that they were designed to get.
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Hi all,
I've got RR axles in my Series III, yes it was a lot of work but I now have brakes that work!
I have just fitted some free wheeling hubs as well. I bought a pair of Fairey ones that were intended for a early 110 (eBay purchase). The body has to be shortened down and a spigot turned to locate inside the RR hub. The centre driving member also has to be shortened. The 5 fixing bolts are on a slightly different pcd but the holes can be eased slightly with a file. This is why it's important to have the hub location to make sure it all stays concentric.
Even with a V8 you can feel that you're not having to drive the front axle when driving normally.
They don't stick out past the tyre so no problem with damage.
When out laning I just engage them at the start of the first lane and disengage them at the end of the last lane, what could be easier?
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Hi all,
I've got RR axles in my Series III, yes it was a lot of work but I now have brakes that work!
Paul ,
Interested to know how you got over the issue of the steering arms fouling the leaf springs. Could you give some more detail on the mods.
I've fitted a pair of stage 1 Axles on my SWB. Again alot of work for the rear axle as the leaf pads need shifting but I can now launch my passenger seat backrest when I apply the brakes :D
Lee D
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If you want to increase the track width on a series just fit 6.5 inch (one ton or 8 spoke rims) and wide tyres...
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FWH are IME a waste of time and a potential liability.
My 88" has them and I've never managed to find any difference in fuel consumption or vibration etc. My 109" doesn't and does 30+mpg (non LR diesel engine).
As for the liability bit, I had a rear wheel bearing fail on the 109" as I went up a motorway sliproad allowing the halfshaft to come out and disengeage. If I'd had FWH and they'd been disengaged then at the top of the sliproad with no drive and no brakes I'd have had no where else to go but backwards in to the car behind, as it was I was able to use 4wd to get onto the level roundabout. The pictures may still be on here somewhere, IIRC it was Dec 2003.
As for widening track, you'll get much the same effect with wheels with a greater offset.
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EASY FIX
Get on the phone to Bearmach and order a set of parts to make a defender 2 or 4 wd selectable.
They do a kit which removes the front drive, and also supplies a pair of free wheeling hubs to fit a 90/defender axle.
They do stick out quite far tho, need some fairly wide offset wheels to keep em looking OK
I know all this cos the zook has a pair fitted to the 90 axle up front.
Hope this helps
ps it is worth doing, it gets rid of all the crap whirling around up front, diff/prop/driveshafts. Lets face it, you wouldnt leave the telly switched on all night would you, all that spinning away will waste a lot more power.
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Am yet to notice any fuel saving with free wheel hubs, the only thing they do actually do that is good is reduce the noise slightly. I would have thought that a RR axle would have been designed to 'turn' all the time the vehicle is in motion, it is permanent 4wd after all.
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I wouldn't bother doing anything to the RR axle... as mentioned, it has CV joints in the front which are designed to turn and spin happily all day long on the road.
I would (and have) fit them to a Series axle and have felt the benefit. Not is fuel costs, because I think that is negligible, but in wear and tear on the front half shafts. They have UJ's in them, and on my old 6 cylinder, you could feel them when going round tight corners on the road... the same vibration issues you get with propshafts on the coil-sprung vehicles. Disengage the hubs, and it was all much better.
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Looks like we have a conflict of opinion. I know the benifits as I drive a series diesel. LOW POWER. When on the way to the last club meeting I was driving down the bypass and thought what is wrong with the dam thing it would not do 70mph. I pulled over to find that kids have been playing with them and they was in/on/engaged. As soon as I set off the next time what a difference. So what some of you are saying is drive about in 4wd with all the extra gears and shafts turning. Transfer box gears, Prop shaft, Very heavy diff, Half shafts and there will be no difference in performance or fuel economy !
I know there is a difference. Alot of you may not know that I have 90 diffs in which makes for alot better economy as its not screaming its T*ts off at 60mph. This also makes the engine work alot harder to get there but I can sit at 70mph without scr*wing it to death. If the hubs are in its just too much for the old diesel. If that makes any sence to you then you are a better man than me....LOL