Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Suzuki => Topic started by: Grinch on November 20, 2006, 14:08:48
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Hi all. Just fitted a 3 inch lift for my Jimny and am finding the steering a little light on road. Has anyone ever fitted the castor correction bushes, and how hard was it to do?
Also , where did you get them from?
Cheers folks
Matt
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it will still drive on it tip toes with the castor correction bushes at 3 inch lift(from super pro bushes) ours did so all we did was re drill the mounts where thew front raduis arms mounto to the axle and adjusted it all to be correct now you cant evan tell its been lifted....
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So you re-drilled the axle for the correct castor??
Matt
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Dont the KAP suzuki 'twister' arms caster correct as well?
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yeah, but im out of arms and legs right now :lol: :lol:
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Have you any more info, piccies of the modded radius arm mounts. I was considering this but wasn't sure there was enough metal lef to drill through - as in the holes might be too close to the edge?
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ill get pics it includes re drilling the mounts then using big washer on either sides of teh bolts when in the corect position being welded onto the axle mounting so that its all solid again and nothing can move about...
ill get pics 2 moro
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Sounds similal to what I was thinking off, look forward to the pics. Cheers.
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Ah, the wiggle it then weld it approach. I Like it :D
Matt
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Ah, the wiggle it then weld it approach. I Like it :D
Matt
Now who is going to do that for ya matt ?? :roll:
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well maybe you, maybe spoof maybe you and spoof :lol: :lol:
matt
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also with 3 inch lift and castor correction bushes when on full lock if u let off the wheel it carrys on going round in a corner now its been modded it spins back round to centre
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yeah, its weird not having the wheel try and center itself..... :shock:
Matt
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Any chance of those pics Bailey???
Cheers
Matt
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ohh sorry forgot its to dark nw either 2 moro or monday...
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sweet, that will give me something to do at work on monday :lol: :lol: :lol:
Matt
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basically just drill a new ho0le under the otehr pop the bolt in with 2 eight inch thick washers each said bolt up go for a drive adjust to when it feels best then weld the washer up and slap some paint on much better than crappy castor correction bushes
**we put both cvastor corretion bushes so they would push the axle as far forward as possible to move wheels away from bulkhead and rear of arches...
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72/seddon/SP_A0042.jpg)
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nicely done mate, Thanks
Matt
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Did you redrill both holes or just the front ones, and then pivit on the rear one?
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just re drill the front and pivot on rea i didnt paint it so dunno why dads painted the back
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And you used the scientific method of just eyeballing it? or was there some hokey calcu-ma-lations i should be extremely frightened of? :lol:
From what i can figure its a case of getting the imput shaft and spring retainers back to parallel with the ground, right?
Matt
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slapped some standard size jimny tyres on found standard jimny measured bottom of diff near the bolts into the axles to floor measured diff nose on prop flange to floor and made ares the same.... went for test drive seemecd reet enought welded it up
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My calculations give a 4.5 degree difference with a 2" lift. So in effect the front axel wants twisting back up by 4.5 degree. This means the centre for the new hole is approx 13mm from the centre of the old one. I'm goingto have a go at making up a 'patern' which I'll bolt into the rear hole and use as a guide to dril the new front hole. If it works I'll take some pics and post 'em.
(Luckily I've a spare front axel to practice on!
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Basically whay i had in mind Glaggs, and thanks for the measurement.
Going to have a look see some time soon as in strong winds im starting to scare other road users with my erratic progress :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Matt
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As promised some pics of the mods in progress
1. The 'template'
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2. Template in place -
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3. template in use -
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and finally the radius arms reattached! Still got to test drive it though, watch this space.
PS. once I've test driven it and proved it to be OK I will be welding up the repair washers to add strength, I also intend to strengthen across the front of the axel to radius arm mounts.
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Glaggs, you'll tear those out in no time at all, make sure they are reinforced..... :lol:
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Bravo! that really helps me out for early next year when i get on to this.
Could i be really cheeky and ask for the measurements or is that just going to get me a kicking? :wink:
Thanks Glaggs 8)
Matt
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Hi Ian, don't foget thats just the front location, the rear one ain't been touch, and once I've given it a test drive on the road to make sure it feels OK I'll be welding the repair washers (probably slightly larger ones) into place. I'm also going to weld a piece across the front to add some strength and to prevent too much flex near the new holes. As per the pic below - red areas to be plated and /or welded.
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seems a cracking solution to castor problems, why didnt someone think of it when i had my jimny? I had to buy some DG tuning radius arms..
And whats with not modifying cars under warranty? wimps lol.
Great solution guys, I'll consider that for my next project jimny.
Gary
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well my dad thougth of it off the top of his head baring in mind the washers we welded on ours where thicker than the original steel its much stronger than original
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The centres for the new hole is 13mm from the original. This gives just 1mm between the two holes, but a substantial repair washer welded in place should be up to the job. Drilling the holes on the drivers side is a [person of questionable parentage], the diff and the wheel get in the way but I managed with a bit of patience. Total cost £8.50 for two drill bits and some washers?
Hi Gary, only prob with this method is using the original radius arms - as they are made of putty, hence why I was after your old ones. Next I'm looking at strengthening the orignal arms?
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I did email you to say I'd found them matey, shout if your still interested.
Gary
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Hi Gary, just sent you a pm. Yes still would like your radius arms if still available, Ta Mark.
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Just been for a test drive, hands off at 60 mph and no wobble, even without the steering damper. Do get a bit of shake when cornering hardish and breaking, say around 35mph, but this could be the un-balanced spare I'm running which also shakes a little at about 40mph in a straight line. But it seems OK other wise? better than before the mod. Now to finish it off and weld it up proper.
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Went to Kirton today and on the M180 going the Jimny was rock steady upto 70mph. Even coming home with strong gusting winds it behaved better than before the mod and I haven't refitted the stearing damper, don't think I will either. As for the mods effects on off road performance? don't know as I lost 4wd within minutes of arriving. Vacuum system switch valve problem I think?
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Thought i recognised your car, it was parked up all the time i was there though. I went to see what was forsale but there wasnt alot there (foresale)
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Glaggs,
do the arms bend with standard bushes or are they bending with poly bushes?
Ian
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I have now bent 3 arms (2 quite badly) all on standard bushes. To be fair the first one I also broke and bent the shocker at the same time - hit a tree root at TONG. I'm now using poly bushed arms. I resisted this before as I was tonld the standard bushes allow better articulation but the new arms came without bushes and I had the poly-bush set on the shelf waiting. We'll see what happens. I am also experimenting with reinforcing the arms by welding some angle iron down the insides. Watch this space - when I get 4wd working again.
ps. On another site (Jimny world I think) I saw a vid clip off a Jimny which snapped its std radius arm!
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linky glaggs wud like to see that video
simon
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If I can find it again??????????????
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thanks for the info about the bushes, not sure about welding the standard arms though!
Ian
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no harm in trying....
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When I've finished the mods on the Jimny, the good lady will be driving it so I don't think her right foot is like mine, actually I don't think she see things through the red mist that I do either!
Ig
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get them both finished ian wana see them both @ coney green
next month :(stoopid):
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Si,
Both are road legal, the Jimny need's a couple of things to make it right to my eye! But the Sj has a 1.9td vw engine in it! The man that modded it, was paid over 2k to do a pro job on a A1 Sj :shock: I've sorted the brakes, build a proper exhaust for it, which help cure the over heating. Did the electrics. then had it mot'd. The problem is that it's only got 2" gap between axle and sump, it's got a lift. The engine is mint with awsume grant. I've got to move the front axle forward to cure it or over axle it, but the TIME and cost! I'll 4 link toyota alxe under it, curing any forscene problems in one hit?
Ian
Ps Sorry everyone rambled on then. If anyone want to know I've modded the axle and kept rubber bushes to keep max twist in the bush and shock resistance for the arm.
Ian
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ian was it the sj off ebay with the bad write up about a certain modding company?
simon
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Yep! I rallyed lada's for years and I'd be ashamed of some of it.
ian
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The finished mod.
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And the bent radius arm!!!!!!!!!!!!!1