Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Defender => Topic started by: TDi90 on February 28, 2008, 15:09:47
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what parts will i need?
how long will it take?
any tips?
any special tools?
my aim is to have a 200tdi that has done effectively 0 miles. :drool:
thanks everyone!
Rob
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you cannot, because you will have to re use the actual block, and make sure you get it tested thoroughly by someone who knows what they are doing, dont have it done bye the moron that did mine!
other than that buy new everything, but its cheaper to buy a brand new engine that has done 0 miles, unles of course you build a shltpart parts engine then it will only ever do 0 miles before it knackered.
cranks are megga bucks for a 'brand new' one.
just buy a recon from a reputable source like turners or something, you then get piece of mind that bis worth ten times more than the few quid you save.
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you cannot, because you will have to re use the actual block, and make sure you get it tested thoroughly by someone who knows what they are doing, dont have it done bye the moron that did mine!
i know i will send it/drop it off at someone like turner engineering.... how much approx?
other than that buy new everything,
cranks are megga bucks for a 'brand new' one.
like how much?
just buy a recon from a reputable source like turners or something, you then get piece of mind that bis worth ten times more than the few quid you save.
no cos then i wont learn anything!!
Rob
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nothing wrong with having your crank re ground. not sure how much genuine oversize pistons and rings are though.
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I think that cheapo pistions are £40 ish each, the real McCoy are nearer £80 each.
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Hi rob. there are a few good engine shops about, I worked for one for 14 years, Now called classic and modern engine services, in Bracknell, I still know all the guys there, Paul who use to be workshop manager now owns the company outright,He dont suffer fools and tells you the correct answer if you want to hear it or not :lol:
As many on here have said, there is nothing wrong with a proper rebuilt engine, If you wish to get involved yourself then by all means ring/pop down to a shop and discuss the options, you strip it, they machine it and supply the parts, you builds it
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yeah good point there burgerman, you have pm.
thats exactly what i want to do strip it myself then take it to a specialist....
R
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For as good as new you'll want the crank ground, get the grinder to supply the shells though
You'll want the little end bearings replacing and the camshaft bearings
New camshaft, followers and rocker shaft, I can't see why you can't re-use the pushrods.
New pistons, oil pump, fual and water pumps
injectors and fuel pump rebuild
new head perhaps, I read in a workshop manual that yu can't reface the head on the 300TDi, though I have done it in the past.
If the block is rebored/honed and shows no signs of damage then it's probably just as good as a new one if not better, as it will be well stress-relieved by now.
Basically if it spins or slides then it's need work, many parts have a sacrificial bearing but after about 30,000 miles the journal that runs on it will be showing wear.
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I've just finished rebuilding a 300TDi engine. All bearings, seals, and gaskets are new gen items. The block was bored out to +020mm, and I fitted gen pistons. The cylinder head, valves, springs, guides, etc are all brand new too (From Turner Engineering). As far as I'm concerned it looks new and is as good as.
Les.
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You can skim almost all cylinder heads, all parts come with a minimum thickness,as long as after the skim its still within spec its ok, you will/may have to recut the valves n seats to get the correct valve heights, and also tip the top of the valves on hte rocker pillar side, but all possible,
Some heads with precombustion chambers - you remove the chambers, machine the head then machime the area where the chamber sits to leave the chamber sitting approx 1 1/2 thou protruding, dont sound a lot but does make a difference
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im so scared... just pushed her into the garage!
will start unbolting after my hockey match tomorrow afternoon...
hopefully engine out by mid next week!!
Rob
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dont be scared mate, its not hard, just take your time and check everything you do 2 or 3 times, and all being well, you will have a decent motor at the end of it.d
engines i used to be good at, but i remember when i took my first gearbox apart, lobbed all the bits on the bos, and ended up with about 100 bits and hadnt a clue as to where they went, had to get dad round to get me out the poo.
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I've just finished rebuilding a 300TDi engine. All bearings, seals, and gaskets are new gen items. The block was bored out to +020mm, and I fitted gen pistons. The cylinder head, valves, springs, guides, etc are all brand new too (From Turner Engineering). As far as I'm concerned it looks new and is as good as.
Les.
Hi Lez,just out of interest how much did it cost?
To give TDi90 a idea.
Thanks Ash.
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dont be scared mate, its not hard, just take your time and check everything you do 2 or 3 times
Sound advice that is ;)
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Hi Lez,just out of interest how much did it cost?
To give TDi90 a idea.
Thanks Ash.
About £900 so far.
(http://forums.lr4x4.com/uploads/1202191239/med_gallery_2_416_610383.jpg)
(http://forums.lr4x4.com/uploads/1202191239/med_gallery_2_416_222551.jpg)
Still need to get a new PAS pump and either get the turbo rebuilt or buy a new one, so the whole thing will end-up coting about £1500 perhaps.
Les.
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Hi Rob,
I've just finished my 200tdi engine rebuild, to get an engine that is effectivly new you need to,
- Pistons (Con rods should be fine)
- main & big end bearings
- thrust washers
- Complete engine gasket set
- Head gasket ( head bolts are not stretch bolts but its worth checking them)
- Oil pump
- cambelt Kit
Put a new thermostat in & check the water pump.
Things like valve stem oil seals all come i the Gasket set, take the valves out clean them, lap them back in and make sure they dont leak.
Obvious things like getting the block bored out and get the head pressure tested and skimmed.
Measure the journels on the crank to make sure there not oval, if there all round and there is no score marks on them then there is no reason for getting a new crank.
I think thats pretty much everything but I might have missed something. I need all the work on mine myself , i just had the maching done and i put all the pistons Etc back in myself, complete engine rebuild cost me just shy of 500 quid & took a week. Ooo didnt use any rubbish parts either, only the best for my boy!!
Hope its helpful. ;)
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last 1 i did, but going back about 3 years now cost a grand, but that was everything done proper and genuine parts used.
i would imagine you could do it for around 700 quidish these days.
mostmoney goes in machining and grinding, its just depends on what parts you buy to what its gonna cost, but i would recomend genuine over the other stuff as most (not all) is rubbish.
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pm for you tinks.
thanks for all the replies on this thread!
pictures will show you when i start (v.v.v.v.v. soon!)
Rob
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Ref head bolts --- I believe you can reuse them a couple of times only , thus indicating they are stretchy :lol:
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200tdi head bolts are not stretch bolts, if they stretched then you could not reuse them at all!
Stretch bolts can not be used twice, once you take them out you chuck them away and get new ones. :P
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thats interesting!
all the cars i have worked on in the workshop were stretchy bolts :-o
lots of things on landys are weird compared to cars!
Rob
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Most cars are, i'd say in every 10 cars we get in 1 of them wont be stretch bolts.
Forgot to say aswell when you get the head skimmed if they have to take a fair bit off it make sure they reseat the valves otherwise they'll hit the top of the pistons. :roll:
We got a cylinder head skimmed once and the chap that did the machining work said it was pretty bad and they'd taken quite alot off it and when i asked if he had reseated the valves he asked me "why would you need to do that?" :shock: :shock: Needles to say havent taken anything back there again!!
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200tdi head bolts are not stretch bolts, if they stretched then you could not reuse them at all!
Stretch bolts can not be used twice, once you take them out you chuck them away and get new ones. :P
Not true I'm afriad.
On my Cavalier 1.7D they were use-once
On the Transit they are use 3 times
On the 300TDi they are use 5 times
As a rough guide if the torquing sequence uses angle torquing then the bolts are stretching, there is no other means of measuring or limiting the load they are applying then their own yeild strength.
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Well whatever. Either which way all i'm trying to say is that when he rebuilds his engine he wont need to get new head bolts.
Unless of course he knows that someone has already had the cylinder head off it a number of times in which cas i'd personally not bother spending much more than a fiver on it! :D :D
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Absolutley. As a "good practice" the bolts should be stamped with a centre punch every time they are re-used. I don't think it's coincidence that they have 5 stars on the top face of the head either :-k