Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Range Rover => Topic started by: benbenukuk on April 02, 2008, 16:02:49
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Most of the time when I turn the steering wheel I will get a loud bang/clonk from the front of the rangie and the whole front jumps when it's a big one, I have been told it's the panard rod bushes would this correct? if not any ideas? Ben
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Most of the time when I turn the steering wheel I will get a loud bang/clonk from the front of the rangie and the whole front jumps when it's a big one, I have been told it's the panard rod bushes would this correct? if not any ideas? Ben
Sounds like it too me
get someone inside the car with the engine running and turn the steering wheel from lock to lock
while you look under the front of the car
you will be able to see the panard rod moving in its brackets where it joins the axle and at the chassis end
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this is going to sound stupid but here goes what should I be looking for and how do I tell if a bush has gone? :oops:
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this is going to sound stupid but here goes what should I be looking for and how do I tell if a bush has gone? :oops:
when you move the steering from side to side....
If you look where the panard rod attachs the rod will move as you move the steering wheel
hope this helps
where abouts in the world are you ben?
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I'm in Kent, There is very slight movement at full lock but apart from that there is no other movement, is there anything else it could be? Ben
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I'm in Kent, There is very slight movement at full lock but apart from that there is no other movement, is there anything else it could be? Ben
Jack it up and check wheel bearings as mine are worn a little and make the same noise
Jacked mine up yesterday and i have play in drivers side so have ordered new sets and disc's(mot advise)
And do them at the weekend
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Long shot but remember you have a couple of nylon shear pins in the steering column designed to give up on impact allowing the column to telescope. I have had these shear in the past and it induces a thumping in the steering if you wobble the steering wheel. Doesn't sound like your noise, but thought I'd mention it just in case it's adding to the pasnhard noise.
Skibum
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Forgot to add that it clonks when you go from reverse to drive and vise versa, I have checked the prop and thats solid, I did read on a web-site that it could be the diff? Ben
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Check the hockey stick bushes aren't loose. Rusty rem marks around the bolt heads are one giveaway.
Otherwsie wit an assistant try moving off forwardas and reverse and see if you can tell where the noise comes from.
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Check the hockey stick bushes aren't loose. Rusty rem marks around the bolt heads are one giveaway.
Otherwsie wit an assistant try moving off forwardas and reverse and see if you can tell where the noise comes from.
It sounds like it's coming from the front prop
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Does it clonk as you turn the steering or when you are going round a corner?
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my mate had the same thing and it was a snapped tooth in the transfer box
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Does it clonk as you turn the steering or when you are going round a corner?
Yeah, Mainly on or near full lock. Ben
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Then possibly a CV as they work harder on corners or a siezed transfer box viscous unit as the differential works harder on tight turns, this could manifest it'self as banging in the transmission if the resulting wind up is being released either by a wheel skipping or by mechanical damage.
Try jacking up a front wheel and in neutral with the handbrake on try to turn the wheel with a wheel nut wrench, it should turn very slowly, very, but if you can't turn it at all then the viscous is siezed.
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Then possibly a CV as they work harder on corners or a siezed transfer box viscous unit as the differential works harder on tight turns, this could manifest it'self as banging in the transmission if the resulting wind up is being released either by a wheel skipping or by mechanical damage.
Try jacking up a front wheel and in neutral with the handbrake on try to turn the wheel with a wheel nut wrench, it should turn very slowly, very, but if you can't turn it at all then the viscous is siezed.
The viscous unit was taked out and replaced with a centre locking diff, how do I check if it's a CV? thanks, Ben
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It's possible that if you put full lock on then jack up the wheel you might be able to feel a crunching in the hib as you spin it, but that requires very sensitive hands and a bit of luck. Otherwise it's strip the hub down and remove the stub axle to look inside the swivel.
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Well i changed wheel bearings and disc's on the front of mine and i still have the knocking noise :-k :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh:
So if you find out your problem please let ME know so i can check mine [-o< [-o< [-o< :doh: :doh: :doh:
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Bobtail, is youra a regular knock knock knock knock knock as you turn tightish circles :-k
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Mines when you turn left and right it clonks but only if you do opposites
Turn left and it will clonk ,but turn left again and it will not
But then turn right and it will clonk :-k
Sorry Ben not high jacking your thread sounds like we both have problems
Hopefully we can both get them sorted :clap: :dance:
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Your could be the panhard rod that's loose then :-k if it's just one biggish clonk, or the drop arm loose 8-[
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How easy is it to strip down the hub etc. and renew the CV joint's?
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Your could be the panhard rod that's loose then :-k if it's just one biggish clonk, or the drop arm loose 8-[
:-k :-k :-k :-k :-k :-k :-k :-k :-k :-k :-k :-k :-k :-k :-k :-k
Will check tomorrow
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How easy is it to strip down the hub etc. and renew the CV joint's?
Not massivley hard.
-Wheel off
-Calliper off (you may have to remove the top swivel pin bolts to move the brake pipe bracket, hold the hub up with a jack to stop oil escaping then put the botls back in.
-non-ABS axles, remove the outer drive shaft
Remove the hub nuts and hub/bearing/disk assy
remove the stub axle
pull the CV out, the half shaft may come with it in whch case support the half shaft to protect the oil seal inside the chrome swivel once it is away from the halfshaft bearing
-ABS axles, remove the circlip and the shims below it, keep them safe (you find them under a black palastic cap)
remove the outer drive flange
Remove the hub nuts and remove the hub/bearing/disk assy
remove the stub axle, carefully it has an oil seal within
withdraw the CV/halfshaft assy as the CV is secured to the shaft with a snap ring, be careful to protect the oil seal inside the chrome swivel as there is no bearing to supprt the halfshaft
If nothing goes wrong, maybe an hour, maybe 2.
Things to be careful of-
The stub axle bolts can pull metal out of the threads into the steering knuckle, it's cast iron. If the female thread is damaged the knuckle is scrap
Check the stub axle carefully for signs of damaged from a siezed bearing, the surface dameg can stop the bearing running true and the heat damage will effect the stub axle's hardness/strength
support the calliper on a bucket, you can get away without disconnecting the brake hydraulics if you are careful with the short pipes on the calliper.
Oil will escape from the swivle, best to drain it before you start. You'll proabably find it begins to leaks afterwards anyway regardless, they do that :evil:
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How easy is it to strip down the hub etc. and renew the CV joint's?
Not massivley hard.
-Wheel off
-Calliper off (you may have to remove the top swivel pin bolts to move the brake pipe bracket, hold the hub up with a jack to stop oil escaping then put the botls back in.
-non-ABS axles, remove the outer drive shaft
Remove the hub nuts and hub/bearing/disk assy
remove the stub axle
pull the CV out, the half shaft may come with it in whch case support the half shaft to protect the oil seal inside the chrome swivel once it is away from the halfshaft bearing
-ABS axles, remove the circlip and the shims below it, keep them safe (you find them under a black palastic cap)
remove the outer drive flange
Remove the hub nuts and remove the hub/bearing/disk assy
remove the stub axle, carefully it has an oil seal within
withdraw the CV/halfshaft assy as the CV is secured to the shaft with a snap ring, be careful to protect the oil seal inside the chrome swivel as there is no bearing to supprt the halfshaft
If nothing goes wrong, maybe an hour, maybe 2.
Things to be careful of-
The stub axle bolts can pull metal out of the threads into the steering knuckle, it's cast iron. If the female thread is damaged the knuckle is scrap
Check the stub axle carefully for signs of damaged from a siezed bearing, the surface dameg can stop the bearing running true and the heat damage will effect the stub axle's hardness/strength
support the calliper on a bucket, you can get away without disconnecting the brake hydraulics if you are careful with the short pipes on the calliper.
Oil will escape from the swivle, best to drain it before you start. You'll proabably find it begins to leaks afterwards anyway regardless, they do that :evil:
And when you put it back together USE A TORQUE WRENCH.. :doh:
And you will not snap a caliper mounting bolt :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: Like i did
Then spend six hours trying to get it out
All setting are in the Haynes book of Lies [-o< [-o< :clap: :clap:
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Before I have The cv's stripped etc. I thought I would give you a update on the clonk, I drove over a kerb this afternoon with the left front wheel going over it, As it was about to come down it clonked, before the CV gets changed is there anything else it could be that would cause it to clonk when going over a kerb? Ben
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Yeap, shocker ****ed, and of course with body roll it would also happen on a corner.
Other than that it's back to bushes and loose wheel bearings.
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Have you cheched the shock top and bottom bushes.....I had a clink and a clonk from the rea of the disco every time it shimmied over a bump for about a week and couldnt find the source, forgot to look for the obvious things...........
Rubber bush on the shock bottom dead!
Chris
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I spoke to Des today (my mechanic) he said it's properly the diff, so this Sunday I'm going to attempt to take out the diff and see whats going on in there, wish me luck. :D Ben
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I know this might be a bit late, but I developed a clunk when cornering after taking off the anti roll bars. I have air suspension and was told that they need to have anti roll bars fitted so I put Mine back on. The clunk didn't disappear straight away but after a couple of days it did and has not come back since
Hope this helps
Jonny
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Little update, The diff was changed to see if it was that banging, It turned out not to be but was told it could be the gearbox/transfer box so next on the list is the transfer box, will keep you posted. Ben
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Hi Ben,
I've just joined this website after reading about your problems. I'm currently having a very similar problem on my LR90 (1987). The symptoms sound almost identical. The most repeatable way to cause the problem is to reverse on full (or almost full) lock, this will result in a single 'chassis shuddering' knock. Then when going forward and taking off the lock another loud knock will occur. I would add that I do a lot of miles in this vehicle and I think that the steering also feels vaguer (than usual that is ;) ). Unfortunately this is also my everyday car and it has got to the point that I do not wish to take it on to the road until I've sorted it out.
I have looked at my "pan hard" rod and can see no issue. I have only just fitted (6 months ago) a new transfer box so I think it is unlikely that this is the problem. I had been wandering if it was the front diff or the CV joint / swivel housing, until I read this interesting discussion. As you have tried changing the front diff and my transfer box is only 6month old, I think the problem might be somewhere else. Have you investigated the CV joints/swivels? The other area I was going to investigate was the steering box, I had the car recently serviced at a new garage who claimed that they had been meddling in this area - interestingly just before this problem appear. This would also account for the vagueness in the steering.
Does anyone have an opinion on whether the steering box could be the cause of this?
I hope this helps and doesn't muddy the issue further.
I should also add that the problem I'm experience only occurs when you reverse to the left and then drive forward to the right. If it was the transfer box/diffs surely this would occur when steering in both directions? Is this the same for you? If not I will start a new thread as our problems maybe different.
cheers,
Andy.
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Hi, I haven't looked at the cv's as I have been told they make a clicking sound as you drive, the reason I'm trying the transfer box is because when we took out the front diff and put the diff lock and auto box in neutral you couldn't move the prop, it was solid. It's going in of Tuesday for the change will let you know how it goes. Ben
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Hi Ben,
I was interested to know the results with your new transfer box? I had my car up on stands the other day and found that there was a clicking coming from my nearside CV - I could only hear this when I was outside of the car and not driving it. I have not yet road tested it yet as the heavy rain has prevented me from finishing off, however am interested to know how your change went.
cheers.
Andy.
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Hi, I haven't got it back yet picking it up on Tuesday :D But hes sure he sorted it out by changing the Transfer box, what happened was that the diff in the transfer box had gone bang and the clonking I got when going round corners sometimes was the teeth on the cogs, Basically it was all minced up, It was also stuck in diff lock, let me know how yours goes, cheers. Ben