Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Range Rover => Topic started by: Dr Strangeglove on February 25, 2007, 11:06:54
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My Rangie recently overheated and I had to change the head gasket which, with a lot of help from my friends is now done. When it was back together we ran it for a good hour (half an hour at a time) and everything seamed OK. :lol: Yesterday I took it out and it was OK to start with then whilst I wasn’t looking it got very hot (just below the red) which gave me a bit of a panic. :cry: The last thing I want to do is blow the heads again. With £200’s worth of skim, test and gaskets, and all the hard work involved, I need to get to the bottom of the overheating before I start to enjoy using it again. :roll:
I have removed the thermostat so that can’t be causing any resistance or blockage so I have come to the conclusion it must be the water pump or radiator. Are their any tests I can do to find which one? I don’t want to start shelling out lots of dosh as this is my toy and I don’t want it to become a money pit.
Any ideas will be received with thanks. :idea:
Regards
Mick
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for the sake of it, i'd back flush your radiator. and if that doesnt help get your pump tested.
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Is it air con?
Had resigned myself to the fact that I had blown head, got all the spaners out ready to strip, first job was to remove rad.
Once removed I found so much muck and crap trapped between rad and air con rad I thought this could be the problem. Jetwashed both rads and put it back together, Problem solved :D
If you get this months LRO it takes you through the tests, compression, cylinder leakage etc.
Steve
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Is it air con?
Once removed I found so much muck and crap trapped between rad and air con rad I thought this could be the problem. Jetwashed both rads and put it back together, Problem solved :D
I had the same problem, but my radiator was shot once I hosed all the rubbish off. Radiators aren't cheap, I got mine for £15o from eBay, genuine part is loads more!!
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Thanks,
Paul
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Can I test the water pump myself or is it a guarage job? :-k
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If hot water is circulating to the rad then the pump is doing something. Try binning the thermostat.
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I have taken the thermostat out already - how do I know if the water pump is working as it should. Also does anyone know the volume of the radiator? That way I can drain it and measure the liquid volume without taking it off!
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I have taken the thermostat out already - how do I know if the water pump is working as it should. Also does anyone know the volume of the radiator? That way I can drain it and measure the liquid volume without taking it off!
I'll have a look on my CD tonight to see if it gives the radiator volume...
unless RRB can beat me to it... he know EVERYTHING he does! :roll: :lol:
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Remember its about Radiator efficency not Voulme if the fins are rusted away it wont affect the volume
Take the rad of and check its condition
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Have you checked the timing?
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I haven’t checked the timing - is this difficult to do?
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You need a timing light. I asked because the LSE was overheating last summer, I contacted Kenlowe about a fan (it did it whilst towing) and their engineer said before I bought a fan I should run through a checklist he e-mailed me (nice man). I've ben looking for it to post on here but can't find it :roll: .
Anyway, my timing was well retarded and it did make a difference. I'm still fitting fans though :wink:
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Thanks RRB, you always seem to be available with the advice and I do appreciate it.
If you do happen upon the list it would be received with thanks!
Cheers
Mick
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A tip a garage dude told me once about seeing if your water pump is doing its job was to see if the heater was constantly blowing hot air whilst on full blow,if the air runs colder then gets hotter then colder etc it could show a lack of circulation hence no blades left on your pump,might be worth a try but you know what mechanics are like :roll: :roll:
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Ok, I've just re-read the thread to get back up to speed.
For the cost of a gasket you can take the water pump off and check it visually, ie is it complete, is the fan still going round etc. If it's ok then check the waterways into the head before refiting.
Radiator is a bit more difficult, I'd suggest a good chemical flush plus take it off and clean it externally with a hose - be careful jet-washing. Also check that the fins are still present.
Are you still using a viscous fan or are you electric?
When the rad gets too hot you should hear the fan start to work harder. Does it make lots of noise on start-up then go quiet? (the fan)
Does it make as much noise when the engine is getting too hot?
Oh, here's a good one, check that the fan is sucking air through the rad, not blowing it back in. Sounds stupid but after a lot of hard work and money a guy I know found his car had the wrong blades on the viscous fan :roll:
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Cheers RRB,
I am pretty sure the fan is pulling through the rad but I will double check tonight. I will try the timing first as I do not want to take the water pump off and end up with broken studs etc. The plugs are also sooty so I think it’s worth trying the timing - just need to borrow a timing light.
I will also check with the fan speeding up (it is a viscous unit).
Thanks for all your help, it is greatly appreciated.
Regards
Mick
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Just my tuppence worth, but if a rad is suspect (and not obviously damaged/clogged) replace it, i shant bore you with the story but we had a fleet of vans and tried flushing the rads out ect, all flowing through perfectly---- but still over heating, in the end we replaced the rads and hey presto ---- jobs a good un,
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Yes I think the insides get a caot of limescale or some sort of cack that won't flush off and this is enough to reduce the efficiency of the rad.
BTW, I had a look at timing lights in Halfrauds and they have never been cheaper :wink:
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get hold of a lazer thermomerter point it and it tell you the temp ie top of rad ,pipes cylinder ect aprox 86 deg all over at normal temps ,younwill find the problem in 2 mins,without touching a spanner
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Laser thermometer - what a good idea :idea: . I presume I need to check various pints on the rad and the suspect areas will have a lower temperature. :?
I presume also that if I check all the pipes, the ones leading from the engine should be slightly hotter than those returning. Any idea what the temperature should be (when stood and on tick over - or perhaps at a certain revs) as if the engine is running hot because the timings out then this would also be a good indicator for that!!
I will set myself a task of purchasing one and a timing light. I noticed a section on the RPi web site on setting the timing so I shall print it off and set to it.
Thanks for all the advice guy - it’s well appreciated.
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Bump
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I have just taken my radiator off my range.... its realy is quite easy and doesnt take long. the hardest bit was geting the viscus fan off (I took the serpitine belt off and used one of thoes conga rubber grips, like a chain oil filter removeal tool but in rubber, and held the pully wheel with it while i undid the fan) I had a leak about half way down the radiator I was going to get it fixed and sell it on e-Bay as I have gone for a new Land rover radiator...... £300! This one cools the water well with my temperature never getting above half way even on hot summer days. If you want it give me a call on 07801 100745 I will have to ask for some money as I need to get so back to pay for the new one.
When you have got the radiator off, getting the water pump off is easy as well because you have access, as the fan, belt and radiator are all out the way, if you get that far have a look at the bottom hose if it's in a bad way replace it now while it is easy to get at. I spent 4 hours trying to get this hose off and a new one on only to find I had a leak in the radiator and have taken that out and found its easy to get to now! It is also alot easier to clean all the scale and rust off the inlet to the water pump which will need doing.
When you fill it all back up use de-ionised water, it's £3 for 5L at halfords you should only need one as the total fill of the system is about 11L the bit left over just fill with antifreeze and have a slightly stronger mix
hope this helps a little.
Jonny
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I have just taken my radiator off my range.... its realy is quite easy and doesnt take long. the hardest bit was geting the viscus fan off (I took the serpitine belt off and used one of thoes conga rubber grips, like a chain oil filter removeal tool but in rubber, and held the pully wheel with it while i undid the fan) I had a leak about half way down the radiator I was going to get it fixed and sell it on e-Bay as I have gone for a new Land rover radiator...... £300! This one cools the water well with my temperature never getting above half way even on hot summer days. If you want it give me a call on 07801 100745 I will have to ask for some money as I need to get so back to pay for the new one.
When you have got the radiator off, getting the water pump off is easy as well because you have access, as the fan, belt and radiator are all out the way, if you get that far have a look at the bottom hose if it's in a bad way replace it now while it is easy to get at. I spent 4 hours trying to get this hose off and a new one on only to find I had a leak in the radiator and have taken that out and found its easy to get to now! It is also alot easier to clean all the scale and rust off the inlet to the water pump which will need doing.
When you fill it all back up use de-ionised water, it's £3 for 5L at halfords you should only need one as the total fill of the system is about 11L the bit left over just fill with antifreeze and have a slightly stronger mix
hope this helps a little.
Jonny
£300 for a radiator ! [Edited]! You must be mad. You should have used Island 4x4 or somebody like that. Mine cost £130 brand new and I now have it up for sale for under £100
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Ah but Jonnie's is the 3.9 not the 3.5, they cost a LOT more new because of the oil coolers.
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ummmm I did wonder about the price but need to get one quick, anyway found out today that Land Rover don't have them in stock at the moment so I am now getting one from a company in wales (forgot there name) who used to make then for Land Rover and guess how much............ £300!
I like to use genuine kit when I can as it keeps the whole replacement parts going. I had a Beetle before the Range Rover and trying to get good quality parts was hard as all the spare parts were made in Brazil or Mexico and were no where near as good as the original. It really quite nice to be able to go into Land Rover and be able to get almost any part for a 13 year old Range Rover. Even if it is a bit more money a feel like I'm doing my bit to make sure that in the future we can all still get spare parts that are good quality......... I am skint though!
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ummmm I did wonder about the price but need to get one quick, anyway found out today that Land Rover don't have them in stock at the moment so I am now getting one from a company in wales (forgot there name) who used to make then for Land Rover and guess how much............ £300!
I like to use genuine kit when I can as it keeps the whole replacement parts going. I had a Beetle before the Range Rover and trying to get good quality parts was hard as all the spare parts were made in Brazil or Mexico and were no where near as good as the original. It really quite nice to be able to go into Land Rover and be able to get almost any part for a 13 year old Range Rover. Even if it is a bit more money a feel like I'm doing my bit to make sure that in the future we can all still get spare parts that are good quality......... I am skint though!
Are the oil coolers attached to the radiator then? On my 3.5 the single oil cooler is seperate and housed in front of and below the radiator. I presume you do mean transmission oil cooler?
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The 3.9 has two oil coolers - one on each side!! - I have managed to get a price of £162.50 at the moment.
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Fitted my new radiator today with no problems, even though I paied £290 for it it didn't seem as good quality as the original so on that note stick with the cheapest option and see how it goes........ I'll let you know if mine gives up!
Also found today that the bearings on the alternator are starting to squeal does anyone know where you can have them rebuilt? or is it a job you can do yourself
Tar
Jonny
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Any local auto elecrtition should be able to sort that out
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Are the oil coolers attached to the radiator then? On my 3.5 the single oil cooler is seperate and housed in front of and below the radiator. I presume you do mean transmission oil cooler?
On the 3.5 the oil coller was an option only. On the 3.9 it's standard and uses the driber's side (cold) of the radiator. The auto box uses the passenger's side AND the hairy sausage behind the grille.