Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Series Land Rovers => Topic started by: rustprooflandyracer on November 22, 2005, 20:49:19
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Not literally, Really need to get a work light on the rear, however the only way I can see you are able to fit it is via drilling into the rear roof section. Not overly keen on doing this so is there another possible way of attaching it to the rear?
Also I found the best solution to steaming up windows by rubbing fairy liquid onto them, the steam just rolls off it, Just a small amount required otherwise it goes blurry and now it smells 'lemony fresh' :D
Any way the main post is about fitting a rear work light... so suggestions appreciated :?:
Matt
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I drilled a hole, ya gotta drill holes to fasten it on anyway. i use 3 out of the four screws to fasten the light on and the other hole put the wire through with a bit of dum dum to seal the hole. Also dont buy a work lamp they are a rip off, go to a tractor/agricultural shop and buy a tractor plowing lamp they are only a few quid and are very very bright.
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I've seen a couple of people that have used CB antenna gutter mounts.
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I drilled a hole 2. Mine came with one big bolt so I had to drill a big hole for that and another small one for the wire.
I hate drilling my landy, its scary! I nearly had a nervous breakdown with the snorkel! ;):D
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I drilled mine too, don't really want to drill now though with my new paint job. I used a wire gromit to put the wire through and keeps it watertight.
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or get a roof rack :wink:
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if u go with the rack rack idea, ive got one which i dont need any more
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If you dont want to drill the top, how about mounting the lamps low down, in the rear cross member
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It has already been done now, I Did what Jim-willy did drilling 4 holes, 3 for the actual lamp and 1 for the wire. I used 6mm bolts, putting gromits between the metal face and the roof to stop vibrations and it seal the hole. Then i used some clear sealent to block the holes up and stop the extra water leaks :). Looks great now, wired it in to the rear number plate feed so it is only on when the lights are on, then using a switch on the back of the actual unit to work it.
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wired it in to the rear number plate feed so it is only on when the lights are on, then using a switch on the back of the actual unit to work it.
Through a relay I hope, complete with seperate live feed and fused....
Please don't say you've just tapped into the number plate feed wire, and use this to power the light.... :shock:
Ian
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yes :roll: be right back just got to make a few modifications!
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I may be wrong, but I also think you need a warning light, visible by the driver to tell you that the light is on... either in the form of a seperate bulb or an illuminated switch.
Also, why through the side lights??... you'd be better off having a seperate switch, with a relay and a warning light (i.e. a small bulb or and LED type)on the dashboard (and make sure you fuse the circuit correctly) - the last you want is to have the light on... and then watch your pride and joy go up in flames.:oops:
Ian
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Thanks for the advice, i think i got carried away in the moment, have altered it so it is on a seperate feed, which is fused! and switch on the dash, so i can work it independantly.
Matt
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yer, for a rear light you have to have an aluminated switch so you have a warning it is on in the cab, if you not got one just add a little led or small bolb so that it lights it up with the work light,
me xxx
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Mines got a hella pull switch wiv a small led in it which is dull when the light is off so i can find it in the dark and it goes bright when the lights on. only problem it has a habit of flatting my battery even thought the light is off. :x :evil:
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Shouldn't the low/dull setting only be on/illuminated when your sidelights are on???
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the light is on all the time.
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but it should be wired only to come one with the sidelights.... no point in having it illuminated all the time.
just take a feed from the sidelight wiring... i.e. any of the wiring that goes to the instrument illumination of the feed from the sidelight switch - being an LED only a very low amp draw.
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ive got about four of em, two for the top lights, one for the rear and one for the electric fan. It was my dads idea to have on all the time, i had no say in the matter. (in other words he did when i wasen't there)
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understand now :lol: ...
Just seems a bit odd that's all.
In saying that:
only problem it has a habit of flatting my battery even thought the light is off
Unlikely 4 LED's would do this, as they only draw a very small amount of current.
Ian
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it does take a bit of time to flatten it or unless my battery rubbish but they are going to be running of another battery on sunday and putting in split charging aswell.
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ive just been told they are not led, it turns out they are bulds. I ask him to put led ones in. :evil:
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i havn't used a relay on mine i just used an inline fuse.
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As long as you wire and switch can take the load then its fine not to go through a relay...
In all honesty I don't suppose it is strictly needed.
One 55W bulb will only be drawing a max of 4.5Amp's in theory so as long as your switch and wire can take this (with enough of a safety factor) then it would be ok...
Ian
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As long as you wire and switch can take the load then its fine not to go through a relay...
In all honesty I don't suppose it is strictly needed.
One 55W bulb will only be drawing a max of 4.5Amp's in theory so as long as your switch and wire can take this (with enough of a safety factor) then it would be ok...
Ian
all though having had to put a fire out on my own motor i would advise to use a relay all the time no matter what you are wiring up :wink: