Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Discovery => Topic started by: narked on February 03, 2007, 12:47:10
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Got loose bearings on the front of the Disco, and figure rather than just trying to tighten them up and see if that cures it, I may as well replace them while I'm at it. Just wondered exactly what parts I need, and how much of a job it is to do?
Cheers,
Matt
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I'd just tighten them up and I do until they are actually shot.
It's not hard to change them though. In my usual helpful way I can't recall the details but you'll need to move the caliper which on the front means messing with bolts on the top of the swivel which is a real PITA.
I always try adjusting first - it's free!
Mike
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yer id agree fairly easy even i did 2 mind u buy a proper hub spanner the cheap thing i got broke and i lost 3 " of knuckle....
i bought a impact socket to do it huge bit of metal and 30 quid but it did the job
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Done one of mine last weekend. Fifteen quid for the parts, easy job but as said try tightening firtst.
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we replaced one of ours in a farm shop carpark in the middle of nowhere, in the dark, in the cold, with the help of derbysred ;)
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What size socket do you need?
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52mm.
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And for what it's worth I didn't buy an expensive impact socket but the 6 quid pressed steel version. That was 5 years and probably a dozen bearings ago - I seem to have replaced all the bearings on all my trucks and I've had 3 trucks so far!
You don't need to tighten them up much and if they are siezed on then start them off with a chisel.
Mike
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They definately need replacing. Ordered the new bearings, and was going to have a look at what was involved yesterday, but got as far as trying to undo the bolts on the driving member. Couldn't get them undone. Hadn't taken the caliper off at this point, as I was just seeing how things came apart. Only way I could think of to enable me to get the leverage on them would be to get someone to apply the brakes, but doing it according to the LR workshop manual and the Haynes manual, you'd already have the caliper off by this stage. So what's the trick?
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if you broke the pressed steel one i would suggest you were overtightening them, bearings really dont like it!
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SOmeone say drive member? I take it you have ABS then. If so then once you have rebuilt the hub you need to set the endfloat of the driveshaft through the drive member. Shims are £10 a pack, one size each pack and Paddocks don't stock them for that reason, so I was told.
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Well that's what it's referred to as in the Haynes manual and the LR manual. 5 bolts holding it in place.
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Yes driving member is the correct name (in LR speak) but if you have the ABS axles then the CV joint sticks out through the middle and is covered by a rubber cap, this must be disconnected first, circlip under said cap. If the end of the axle is just a mushroom and you don't have ABS axles then it's much much easier, but I think on a 300 series it's more likely to be the later style of hub, so more work.
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Don't think I've got ABS, but I do have the rubber dust cap, with the circlip and washer.
So what's the trick to getting those bolts undone then? I couldn't get any leverage on 'em without the hub spinning.
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air gun
or put a lever through the wheel studs onto the deck & unscrew them
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Surely the simplest way is to do the drive member bolts 1st BEFORE you jack it up and take the wheel off. You've got to crack the wheel nuts 1st so why not do the drive member bolts at the same time ?
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Take that back, just noticed you've got RRC alloys :roll:
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300TDi CSW front wheel bearing. Pretty much the exact same thing.
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=8009
Les.
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Ta very much! Shall make use of that article!
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Take that back, just noticed you've got RRC alloys :roll:
Yup. I am however thinking of scrapping them for some nice modulars. That'll be as soon as I have the funds to buy myself a set of 5 with some MTs!
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Personally I just rely on the difflock to hold the hub stationary whilst I undo the 5 bolts. Mine is viscous but I'm sure if you stick the manual one in it will work (provided you only do one wheel at a time :wink: ).
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*slaps self about the head*
Seems so obvious when someone else says it :P
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Found a hub nut box spanner on eBay, and just wondering if it's the right one as it's size is AF, rather than metric?
Suitable for virtually all Land-Rover products from 1948 to 1998.
For non-LR use, dimension is 2 1/16" AF.
Having difficulty finding anyone locally who's got a 52mm socket or box spanner! And nowhere local stocks em either.
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Box spanners available at Paddocks but I've newver found the open spanner shown in the manual, it looks like a viscous fan spanner.
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Well, I had a quick look at 'em on monday. That loose that I didn't need anything other than my hands to undo the locknuts :shock:
Took it into my preferred local garage the other day. Rang 'em today to see when they'd have it ready, to be told the bearings have made a mess of the stub axle and hub on at least one side, possibly both when they strip the other side to take a look :(
Still, on the plus side, should have it back by Monday, maybe Saturday if the bits arrive tomorrow.
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if you are buying hub seals, Don't buy a cheap pattern part, genuine ones are made by courtico, they can be found for less then £3 each...
the last B***part ones i had didn't even fit properly.
same with wheel bearings, you want Timken (same as genuine parts) or FAG bearings, not nasty chinese ones...
Timken bearings are about £7.50 each, or £15 per wheel..
use a good grease aswell... the blue waterproof stuff is pretty good, I buy JCB stuff from a local farmer, for about £2 per tube...
wheel bearings are easy to change, but a messy and slightly annoying job, so don't risk doing ti again before you have to by using cheap crap.
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I'd echo that. Saving £6 per wheel on bearings barely covers the cost of the grease/selas etc let alone the time you waste doing the job twice.
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When you remove the two bolts that hold the brake pipe bracket in place all the oil from your swivel will pour out.
1. Make sure you have a tray underneath to catch the oil.
2. Make sure you have some ep90 to refill it.
3. Ask me how I know :oops: .
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Oh yes, I don't need to ask.
I put an axle stand under the axle casing then put my troley jack under the swivel (knuckle) to keep the swivel oil seal in contact with the swivel. i find it you let them leak, they keep leaking.
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When you remove the two bolts that hold the brake pipe bracket in place all the oil from your swivel will pour out.
1. Make sure you have a tray underneath to catch the oil.
2. Make sure you have some ep90 to refill it.
3. Ask me how I know :oops: .
And if it's windy, it goes *everywhere*.
Go on, ask me how I know...
Takes a while to clean EP90 off the road....
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Well just replaced my discs and poured EP90 on the path!
But you can remove the caliper and just move it enough to pull the hub off with out disturbing the king pin bolts.
Built mine back up and found small amount of play but cant decide if its Bearing or King pin?
Mines a NONE ABS 300TDi but has the rubber cap and circlip on it?
Whats peoples thoughts on the one shot grease instead of oil?
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How are the stub axle/s damaged? The only way this could happen would be the bearing track friction welded to the stub axle, or corrosion damage to the oil seal land. If you wheel bearings just had too much play - the stub axle should still be fine.
Les.
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One shot is good but once used it's not much thicker than EP90. I'm trying a Lucas oils hub oil with stabiliser as it gets into the top swivel bearing better than one-shot.
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Well, got the Disco back this morning. They only needed to replace the stub axle and hub on one side. Saw the stub axle and hub that they removed, was a bit of a mess.
Was then told that one of the rear bearings was getting close to wanting replacing, so booked it in for later this week/earlier next week. However it's now going to have to go in tomorrow, as the thing of questionable parentage collapsed tonight. Grrrrr :evil:
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The I'd get bothe ends of that axle done too, then all 4 wheels have new bearings if I understand correctly. Your car must have led a hard life at some point.
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Doesn't help that it goes through a river usually 4 times a day. First thing I was asked yesterday at the garage was "Do you do much wading in this?". Going to order some extended breathers tonight!
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Possibly worth checking thay aren't blocked ASAP, I'd expect crud in the diff if it were just the breather getting submerged, crud in the bearings quite possibly caused by a blocked breather.
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Turns out I've got another knackered stub axle, the race has been spinning on it again, grinding gouges into it, same as what happened on the front. Extended breathers were ordered last night. When they come I'll check the breathers aren't blocked.
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Well, got the Disco back today. My wallet is now considerably easier to carry due to having some excess weight removed...
Had to pay for the recovery (was thinking about joining AA/RAC/whatever a few days previously, then it slipped my mind!) but that wasn't too bad. Labour charges didn't seem too excessive either. Was just the parts bumping it up, though admittedly the bill was well within the range I was preparing myself for.
Lovely to drive now, no play at all :D So nice to have it back after a couple of weeks without.