Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Discovery => Topic started by: Leigh on May 01, 2006, 21:53:04
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Not really sure what went on the Disco today. Driviing along about 50 mph when suddenly my steering went funny. I swerved a bit and thought I had a blow out but minus a noise. When I pulled over tyres and wheels were fine but there was some sort of screeching/grinding coming from the front drivers side wheel when slowly driving forwards and in reverse. Any ideas what it could be?
I thought of the half shafts and the front diff but there was no noise or bangs when it happened. Everything looks ok from the outside and no play in the wheel.
Does anyone have any ideas?
Cheers
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hi mate, sounds like a wheel bearing to me. mine went same way. not to hard to change unless your unlucky like me and it welds its self to the stub axle, hub and anything else on the car (mine had)
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Wouldn't there be some play in the wheel even when its on the ground if the wheel bearing has gone? I thought there was which is why I ruled that one out. I'm just in so will wait til tomorrow before I have a proper look.
Thanks for fast reply :wink:
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very true, mine was well wobble. land rovers can live with then, can't kill em
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the wheel bearing may be partially seized so may not show up as any movement yet until it destroys itself completley
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The noise could be a UJ or wheel bearing but with the steering I'd be thinnking wheel bearing, the UJ is just not big enough to affect the steering quite that badly.
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Thanks guys, I'll take the wheel off this afternoon and take a look. Is there anything I should be looking for in particular?
Cheers
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It was definitly the bearings, took the hub off and the inner bearing just exploded. This is the remains
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v290/leighgreen/01052006.jpg)
The inside of the bearing stayed in place and doesn't want to come off at all
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v290/leighgreen/01052006001.jpg)
How did you manage it? I've tried heating it up and it still wont budge.
Cheers
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I've had this happen to me twice with rear bearings .Both times the inner race would not come off.I ended up buying second hand stub axles to get back on the road.I've kept one of the stubs and when I get chance I'm going to get my Dremel and grind through as gently as I can.
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first time i bought a new stub axle. second time i couldn't get any of it apart. lucky for me i'd bought a whole hub from eblag. get one from paddocks if you have no one local. chances are even if you get the race off the stub will be cream crackered
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I was hoping that wasn't going to be the case. I'll try cutting it off and see what condition the stub axle is in before ordering a new one. What sort of price should I expect?
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paddocks will do you one next day for £50.00. you might find a second hand one local for less.
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I was hoping that wasn't going to be the case. I'll try cutting it off and see what condition the stub axle is in before ordering a new one. What sort of price should I expect?
did you get it off leigh of not get the angle grinder and get it realy thin the with a sharp chissel hit it had and it should crack and go loose, mine did the same
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Yep going to give that a go. Need it back on the road for Sunday :D
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Hammer and cold chisel, WEAR GLASSES. If you have a grinder then weaken the race but don't grind through it.
Unfortunately you may well find the race has scored the stub axle and the new bearing won't go back on, try it before assembling the hub and don't push it on too hard or you'll be splitting the new one with the chisel too.
You can try to file the surface back down to smooth if it's not too bad but I'd consider this a temporary measure as resurfacing the stub axle is not a satisfactory fix and the potential heat damage in a safety critical component would give me cause for concern too. Best to buy a S/H part even if you refurb it with a new bearing (if fitted) and oil seal as some of the pattern parts are not as strong as LR originals.
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that looks like what happens to me, if the rear race wont come off then your stub axle will probably be knackered so you will need a new one
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Think I'll put a post in the wanted section just in case
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paddocks will do you one next day for £50.00. you might find a second hand one local for less.
they are more than £50 for a front one
this is what mine looked like once i had got the race off
(http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/918/scored1ql.jpg)
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Hope mine wont be that bad :shock:
Just phoned Rockinham Landrovers and they quoted me £35 plus vat
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it will probably be worse if you can get the rear race off atal
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Must be catching :shock: Had exactly the same problem Bank Holiday Monday, o/s/f inner bearing disintegrated :cry: :cry: Managed to get the race off with a bit of perseverence and ChrisW kindly popped round to drop off some new bearings to get me mobile again 8)
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What condition was your stub axle in after the perseverence Lee?
I'm just hoping once I have got it off I can remember the right order of putting everything back on :lol: :oops:
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if its stuck, then its probably stuck because the rear race span on the shaft, it will be stuck on the chewed up bits of metal
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how easy is it to replace a front wheel bearing as one of my front wheels has a bit of a wobble to it and i would like to change it before I have all the above grief!!
Also I have some new wheel bearings for a classic RR will they fit my 300tdi diesel disco?
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Hi Guys.
Can I ask you all what maintainence you do to your wheel bearings? I know this sounds cheeky but it's not meant that way! :D Personally I remove the bearings as part of the 24K service & check for scoring, refit with new grease. Do I need to do this more or less often?
Also, there has been some debate over the 'hand of experience' method of adjusting wheel bearings. Has anyone sourced a torque wrench that can tighten to 4Nm as recommended in the handbook? Would this reduce the chance of failure? It is something I would prefer to do but the cost of a decent wrench put me off.
Cheers, Dan
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What condition was your stub axle in after the perseverence Lee?
I'm just hoping once I have got it off I can remember the right order of putting everything back on :lol: :oops:
Once I'd managed to get the race off using a heel bar first then knocking backwards and forwards with a chisel, I used some heavy grade emery cloth. Best stuff to use is in a strip as you can wrap it around the stub end and work your way around. Keep trying the new bearing so you don't take too much off :oops:
If you think your going to forget the order use a camera after you take each part off, but its not that complicated.
HTH
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Too late to use a camera, its all off apart from the race thats stuck :lol:
The new bearing in the box also has a seperate metal ring/sleeve it is sitting in, what is that bit for?
I've no idea about maintaining the bearing. Would be good to know though!
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The new bearing in the box also has a seperate metal ring/sleeve it is sitting in, what is that bit for?
That sounds like the bearing's 'outer race' - you should find this is inside the hub you have taken off and will need driving out with a chisel/screwdriver/metallic object and hammer and the new one driving in utilising a similar method.
NOTE be careful to try not to mark the inside of the hub - the best tool to use to drive the race out is a copper or brass bar as this will bend/deform before the steel of the hub does.
HANDY TIP - once you have removed the old outer race take an angle grinder and run it through one side of the old race - this makes an excellent drift for installing new outer races as it won't 'jam' into the hub.
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HANDY TIP - once you have removed the old outer race take an angle grinder and run it through one side of the old race - this makes an excellent drift for installing new outer races as it won't 'jam' into the hub.
I have one of those :wink: Oh its yours :lol: :wink:
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Finally got it finished and it was a case of a new stub axle. Ended up being £30+vat
Only problem I have is the thin washer and circlip wont fit on the end of the half shaft. Its only about 1-2mm out but the shaft isn't sticking out enough. I have managed to put the circlip on but it hasn't slotted into the groove.
Will it be ok to drive still and see if it settles in place?
Hope this makes sense :?
Cheers
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hi mate. take one of the bolts that holds the flange on and screw it into the hole in the end where the circlip goes, pull towards you and it should all come together. its a little fiddly and you will swear at it alot but works
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Managed to pull it out enough to get the circlip in properly but not the washers. Will have another go tomorrow I think.
Thanks for your advice :wink:
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Funnily enough I had the same problem on the way back from Sodbury, I was convinced the noise was a rear bearing,
The race had welded itself onto the stub, I got a good S/H one for £10 from a local specialist, and the seals etc for another £6.
I had the bearings in,
The scary part was the car passed a tough MOT 400 miles earlier, and nothing was found.
I think I will include a strip down of the hubs in the service schedule.
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Hi Guys.
Can I ask you all what maintainence you do to your wheel bearings? I know this sounds cheeky but it's not meant that way! :D Personally I remove the bearings as part of the 24K service & check for scoring, refit with new grease. Do I need to do this more or less often?
Also, there has been some debate over the 'hand of experience' method of adjusting wheel bearings. Has anyone sourced a torque wrench that can tighten to 4Nm as recommended in the handbook? Would this reduce the chance of failure? It is something I would prefer to do but the cost of a decent wrench put me off.
Cheers, Dan
snap-on do a 1/4' and 3/8' torque wrench that go that low but then you have to have adapters to fit a socket that fits the nuts
I have a 1' drive socket, 1' - 3/4', 3/4' - 1/2', 1/2' - 3/8', 3/8' - 1/4' on a 1/4' torque wrench, very interesting to look at
similar to this http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=55273&group_ID=955&store=uk&dir=catalog except mine goes down to 1Nm (cost the company about £250 :shock: )
Cant see that it would make much difference if it is torqued or not
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Funny, there have been a spate of bearing failures recently within MC. Any problems guys I'll send Julie round to fix them (eh tim :wink: ).
As for the torque wrench, that only applies to later models with tighter tolernances (though all cars can be adjusted so) and with new bearings IIRC, so I just stick with a feeler guage, if the correct one fits AFTER I've tightened both nuts then it's right, simple as that. With the later style CV joint it's the endflaot that's critical, not the torque as the endfloat in the CV joint has to be greater than in the hub.