Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Range Rover => Topic started by: fatclive on October 03, 2005, 21:12:37
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has anyone got any tips for doing a 2" body lift, have read up & seems only tricky bit could be extending the steering column. Am I being a bit daft or just very hopeful ?
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which rangie are you lifting????????????? i did a 2" body lift on my mk1 rangie and used a mk2 steering shaft,fitted a treat :D
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mk2 steering shaft ????
Does that mean It came from a P38 ?
Help me here - I too have problems with my shaft !
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Am trying to lift a 1992 vogue se, when you say mk 2 is that a p38 or the later classics ?
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soory for any confusion :oops: i used the shaft from the later classic to fit my early one.thats the rod with the two knuckle joints on it in engine bay!!!!
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I have considered this myself.
I am told that you only need to worry about the steering column if you are lifting the body more than 2".
Don't forget you will need spacers for the rear seat blet mounts and also for the radiator.
Who is making your spacers for you?
I want to price up a set myself.
I think its a much better way of going about things than a suspension lift as you don't have to worry about castor angles and stuff like that.
Cheers
John
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Ive done a two inch lift on my 1988 rrc and I have had no problems with the steering at all. took me a day to do it using just a hi-lift jack.All I did with the steering was loosen all the uj bolts wiggle the steering a bit and retightened the bolts
(http://members.mud-club.com/galleryimages/f535e1484ad3bbb886402fd9f3ec3168.JPG)
(http://members.mud-club.com/galleryimages/54886e303b6a7f0e51f5d6ee02407b86.JPG)
As for kits there's a user on here called sharpshooter (http://members.mud-club.com/profiles/sharpshooter) that can make the spacers and extended bolts for the seat belt mounts
(http://snap21.photobox.co.uk/08773899174b7f0eab73719a67a03ed90a991dc4749aa806600147b5.jpg)
The radiator drops 2" and all I did was drill two holes 2" further down the slam panel and rebolted the mounts on
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thanx for the info, as soon a I get the spacers I will atempt lift & will post any problems/easy fixes I encounter.
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i left rad on original mounts and did away with the cowling and fan ..i used sierra twin electirc fans and wired them up as seperate items .my v8 stays cool with only one being used tho
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also the clutch pipe needs re positioning cos it goes thru the bulkhead mount and won't be long enough to reach slave cylinder once lifted ..
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:D You Rang :D
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also the clutch pipe needs re positioning cos it goes thru the bulkhead mount and won't be long enough to reach slave cylinder once lifted ..
Mine is just long enough but would agree its advisable to replace it with a longer pipe
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Have been looking at doing this myself, mines got auto box so no worries there but anyone know what front brake pipes will do, i have some pro comp +4" shocks and +2" hd springs waiting to be fitted and with the body lift as well want to make sure they will be long enough, mines the twin pipe per caliper variety
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Sounds of interest,
Can someone who has done this list what needs doing & what is required.
Also if there are any down sides to lifting the body
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Wolfies your man for the fitting, and im your man for the bits. :)
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do you have a price for the bits for an 84 rr classic 5 door
& what bits are included (and excluded) to do the job
rgs
keith dixon
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I ummed and ared for quite a while before actualy doing the lift(about 18 months and 3 rangies later)
But after helping a freind do his I decided to bite the bullet and do it.
the worst part and most time consuming part of the job had to be undoing all the nuts and bolt that had never been undone since new. Once that was done I had no problems. I used one hi-lift jack to raise the body. It was very simple to do, once all the bolts were undone(10 bolts hold the shell down and 4 bolts tie the rear seat belt mount and front floor to the chassis ) I put the jack under the sill just in front of the front door and jacked it up high enough to get most of the spacers in on one side, I then had to put the jack under the rear just to lift enough to get the very rear spacer in, I then repeated this on the other side.The main problems you come across is that you cant just put longer bolt through the holes, you have to remove the bushes and put the bolts through at an angle and then resettle the bushes back into place (sounds worse than it is to do ,when doing it you'll find it easier to picture what i mean)the only two bolts I couldn't put back in were the two rear ones as there is just not enough room so I put these up from the bottom but all were secured with nylock nuts so shouldn't be a problem.The only problem Ive encountered is that mines got a manual gearbox and the clutch pipe is a bit tight and could do with being replaced with a longer one.which ever side you do first you need to take the bolts out other wise they catch and the chassis lifts as well, leave the other sides bolts in so that the shell cant move side ways and extreme but possibly fall off the chassis.When we did my friends he used a hi-ab crane and as he picked up the shell it swung sideways by about 6" so I recommend leaving in some bolts.put one spacer and bolt in at a time and once through put the nut on just a couple of turns and it will stop you displacing the spacers if you need to lift a bit more.Don't forget to unclip your bumper end caps from the body and once the lift is complete loosen all the steering uj bolts and wiggle the steering wheel abit and then tighten the bolts back up.there are several floor supports that need some blocks and you need to drill two new holes for the top radiator mounts and thats about it. I had mine done for several months now and I use it as my daily drive and have had no problems what so ever and last weekend went greenlaning with no problems at all. hope that helps any more questions please ask or if anything isn't to clear in my description please ask
Ian
As for the kit you need 10 spacers + 4 extended tie bolts and you will also need to get some 10 3/8 unf x 6"(for 2" lift)
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Have been looking at doing this myself, mines got auto box so no worries there but anyone know what front brake pipes will do, i have some pro comp +4" shocks and +2" hd springs waiting to be fitted and with the body lift as well want to make sure they will be long enough, mines the twin pipe per caliper variety
You will need to change your brake pipes for longer ones or relocate your pipes lower down
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relocate the pipes it is then!!
i picked up 10 3/8 unf x 6" bolts today but they only have about 1" of thread, is this enough or should i cut the thread further before i start the job, dont really want to be adding packing if i can help it.
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relocate the pipes it is then!!
i picked up 10 3/8 unf x 6" bolts today but they only have about 1" of thread, is this enough or should i cut the thread further before i start the job, dont really want to be adding packing if i can help it.
What are you making the rest of the kit from?
I have found the polypropelyne ones the best.
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well i have 40 spacers in all, 20 x 1" and 20 x 1 1/2" so could combine these for various heights, got a full set of std new body mount rubbers, new washers and waited ages for new top hat inserts, i think that only leaves the tie rods left to worry about.
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got a friend at an engineering company to make me 10 x 40mm diameter x 50 mm long with a 10mm clearance hole in center spacers in mild steel for the vast amount of £0.00. Hopefully fitting them this weekend so will let you know of any problems I may encounter.
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Whatching this post with interest, as I really fancy doing this, understand the problems with brake pipes steering shaft but what happens with the h/brake& gearleavers,
Thanks John.
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well just off to attack mine now, decided to go for it and just make things up as i go along....
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well thats that done, only problems were one of the bolts had decided it was not going to part company with the rest of the bush or chassis whatever was done to it, oh and i forgot about an earth bonding strap, wires for the petrol sender needed extending, went for the easy option with rad and just removed cowling as lowering the rad would have meant remounting the oil cooler which i couldnt be bothered with today. maybe some other time. Getting enough lift to fit the spacers was a problem as i only have a bottle jack and much of the lifting range was taken up by the springs as weight was taken off the chassis, winding some coil spring compressors on by hand before jacking the body soon sorted that one!
biggest problem with this job.......
EVERYONE can now see the bits under the wheelarches that need a little.. attention
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Whatching this post with interest, as I really fancy doing this, understand the problems with brake pipes steering shaft but what happens with the h/brake& gearleavers,
hi mate,when i lifted mine i didn't have a proplem with gear sticks,made the hi-low one a bit longer tho just for comfort more than anything else. was a bit close to the gaiter
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another way to help ease the job is that before you lift body put axle stands under opposite chassis rail as this stop that side from sagging down on suspension
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What do you have to do with the bumpers they will need lifting to look right.
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i left my front one on for a while till i fitted winch bumper which sits on top of chassis rails ,it looked ok (i suppose) rear was left off ,looks better
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i left my front one on for a while till i fitted winch bumper which sits on top of chassis rails ,it looked ok (i suppose) rear was left off ,looks better
got any pics??
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will put piccies on over the weekend
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there are several floor supports that need some blocks
Could you elaborate on that a bit. I have the 10 spacers and the 4 seat belt bolts. Do I also need extra spacers making then? Where are these supports located under the boot floor I guess. But where else?
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hi , you will find the front floor sits on the chassis and the rear floor pan sits on four supports hidden behind the rear wheels.the trouble with these rear supports is they go out of line when body is raised ,cos they are angled .what i did was put a metre length of 2x2 on the chassis and bevelled each end to match the floor mounts ,then welded the 2x2 to the chassis..confused.. all will become clear when you lift it :D
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Have been looking at doing this myself, mines got auto box so no worries there but anyone know what front brake pipes will do, i have some pro comp +4" shocks and +2" hd springs waiting to be fitted and with the body lift as well want to make sure they will be long enough, mines the twin pipe per caliper variety
You are going down the same route as I have done. Yes you will need extended brake pipes. Scorpion Racing do a very nice stainless set and work a treat.
BB...
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got a full set of std new body mount rubbers,
Hi
I would be interested if you can tell me if these were main agent only and if you remember the part number?
Were these two rubbers with seperate metal inserts or were they one piece?
Only I replaced two of these when I changed the rear cross member. The ones I got then were one piece. I seem to remember that the guy said these were upgraded design. The part numbers for the original bits are no good so this sounds likely.
I tried to get some more but the guy who got them for me has moved on, and the new guy does not have a clue, and I don't know what the part number might be.
I suspect the number is likely to be in the post 1991 Range parts book but I don't have that and I did not think of this until this morning.
Cheers
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Thanks, just checked out scorpion racing web site, not sure which toy to buy first..
As for rubbers, they are two piece jobs with metal inserts,
I got them from bearmach, I remember the guy telling me they had thousands of em in warehouse stock so shouldnt be a problem. should be calling by there tomorrow so will get the numbers you need, the inserts were not available and i had to wait for ages to get some and im glad i did as when i removed mine most of them had rotted through.
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part numbers for bodymounts,
rubbers - ANR 1504 - 26p each
inserts - KVH 100030 - £4 each
dont know how that compares with the ones you got before, if you are stuck let me know and i will sort some out.[/quote]
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come on robbie, where's these photos got to? :wink:
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sorry chaps ..i will do photos of my lift tomorrow(sunday)...was at whaddon last sat/sunday and been to france today ..busy man :D
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not a good pic but heres how my lift turned out..
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Hi
Started mine this weekend. Only just got all the body mounts from Craddocks.
I was late starting the lift. This was partly due to the fact that my friend wanted me to help him fit leather seats in his Rangie. This went pear shaped when all the bolts on the rear seats snaped and required new holes drilling out.
I was going to do the lift at the garage I work at on their 4 poster but it dawned on me that since I fitted the 255/85R16 tyres I only have a 1/2" clearence under the shutter because of the roof rack.
Adding 2" would have meant me having to remove the roof rack to get back out again! So I had to do it on the drive at home. So had no air tools and was restricted by the light.
All went well initially.
Managed to get all the body mount bolts undone and they were all loose in the top hats. Look in fairly good order apart from the two rear ones under the rear doors.
I then started on the body ties.I got the front one on the near side off no problem. I started undoing the rear one and it got slowly tighter and tighter until I could not even turn it with the breaker bar. I would heat it up normally if I was at the garage but at home I don't have anything to heat it up with. Finally got it off but whacked myself in the face with the breaker bar for my troubles.
Whilst I was doing one of the front body mounts I noticed the floor looked a bit crunchy along the seam. Gave it a poke and a large section of floor fell out :-( So it seems I need to do some welding as well :-( Still it explains why the passenger carpet often felt damp to the touch.
Ho hum...
I can now see why one of you suggested 2" box section under the floor at several points where it is suported by the chassis. I will have to sort something out on that front. That will have to wait until next week when I can get hold of something suitable.
I did have trouble with the bolts I ordered. They don't have quite enough thread on them. Going to have to get some over size nuts or something to enable me to tighten things up nice and tight.
Still got the replacement body ties to fit and the radiator mounts to sort out. I was a bit worried at first that 2" was not enought but looking at it I think I may get away with it just.
Watch this space... I will have to try and put pictures up when its done... :-)
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Hi
All done bar drilling two new holes for the rad and the rear body ties. The cotter pins are so rusted in I can't budge them. Had to remove the unbolt the mounts to remove them complete. Taking them in to work tomorrow to get the gas torch on them and heat them up until they as as red as satans ... and then give them a goood seeing to with the persuader.
Dare say after that I will need new ones :-(
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Hi
All done. Got the rear body tie mounts apart after heating them up. Took the opportunity to change over the rear seat belts as it had non standard ones that made putting the kids in their seats really hard work as they were about 2" shorter.
I was told today that I really need to get extended brake pipes as mine will break as soon as I go off road.
I know you chaps who are doing 4" lifts mentioned needing brake pipes. Do I also need brake pipes as well? None of you other chaps mentioned brake pipes...
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if you currently have standard brake pipes you will certainly need longer ones, I have just got a set from scorpion racing as advised by bigblue, made sense to change all of them for braided items. Not got round to putting them on yet as im in the middle of engine transplant!! I have done a 2 1/2" body lift and will let you know if they are long enough once i put them on this weekend.
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Hi
Yes I have ordered a set from http://www.llama4x4.co.uk/
Hoping to get them before Christmas but looking a bit iffy at the minute.
Cheers
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Hi chaps
Been watching this post with interest as I havent a clue about lifts
Why a 2" body lift as apposed to a 2" suspension lift
Whats the difference apart from the cost, as far as I can tell the only advantage of a suspension lift will be improved articulation?
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a 2 inch body lift will only lift the body therefore keeping the vehicle a bit more stable cos engine/gearbox weight stays lower helping the center of gravity ..but on a 2 inch suspension lift you get better engine /gearbox clearance.i did a 2inch body lift and bigger tyres .cos with bigger tyres you also get axle lift as well.(which still stays at the same height with body or suspension lift)
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Hi
There is an article in LRM at the moment covering a Rangie that was lifted by 4" (2" on the body and 2" on the suspension).
I have also written an article on http://www.rangie.com/
The advantage of a body lift over a suspension lift is as has been stated. It does not interfere with all the setup of you drivetrain...
It actually takes a lot of time, and expense, to get the vehicle right after a suspension lift.
For starters you need some sort of castor correction (usually involves replacing the panhard rods). You will also find that many people have trouble with noise from the front prop. The only way to cure this is to fit a decardon prop from a Disco II.
The hardest bit about the body lift is working out how best to extend the chassis supports for the floor (there are 4 of them at the back and there is also 2 points at the front where the floor is supported).
HTH
Cheers
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Great thread is making me seriously think about doing this. Please can we have some more photos if poss , thanks.
Steve