Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Defender => Topic started by: zulublue on January 21, 2008, 10:34:19
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I have a 90 Truck Cab and when I put my foot down I get lots of vibration though out the motor, if I then take my foot off the gas pedal its as smooth as anything I know the props need replacing, do you think it is just the props causing this or could it be something else.
It has a 2" OME lift on it.
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Universal joint on the prop,my disco did the same
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Universal joint on the prop,my disco did the same
Agreed ... first thing to check.
Do the props need replacing or just the UJs?
UJs are any easy replacement if you take your time (even I can do them).
If you have to replace the props you might want to consider a wide angle yoke for the front as you have a lift. Kensons in wendsbury sold me one for £140.
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Thanks Bob, I was looking at the Gwyn Lewis ones for £160, yes I do need wide angle, do you just need this on the front, or does the same apply to the rear?
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Zulublue I have run OME +2" suspension for 6years with no adverse affect on UJ's...although for some reason all Landy's seem to differ :roll:
Have you put castor correction arms/bushes in? If so then a Double Cardon Prop may be needed.
First try replacing the UJ...easy & cheap :D
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Zulublue I have run OME +2" suspension for 6years with no adverse affect on UJ's...although for some reason all Landy's seem to differ :roll:
Have you put castor correction arms/bushes in? If so then a Double Cardon Prop may be needed.
First try replacing the UJ...easy & cheap :D
Have not poly bushed the front and its still on standard radius arms, I dont think double cardan joints have a grease nipple thus may wear out quickly with all the S&C that goes on it, I was going for wide angle props, I have a few quotes now. I have just spoken to The Propshaft Clinic in Bradford, and they will make the slide length of the prop to what I need.
Do I need any special tools to change the UJ?
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Just tools to remove the prop & a pair of circlip pliers...doesn't take long :D
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nothing takes long for jamie, he seems to be a bit of a speedy gonzales when it comes to fixing landys :clap:
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nothing takes long for jamie, he seems to be a bit of a speedy gonzales when it comes to fixing landys :clap:
Apart from rebuilding my 110 :oops:
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I have a 90 Truck Cab and when I put my foot down I get lots of vibration though out the motor, if I then take my foot off the gas pedal its as smooth as anything I know the props need replacing, do you think it is just the props causing this or could it be something else.
It has a 2" OME lift on it.
I had a similar problem... but i found i could accelerate through the vibration and it stopped... turned out i had lumps of dried mud/clay on the insides of my rims that caused it. The vibration was horrendous, really shook the whole vehicle badly.
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I have a 90 Truck Cab and when I put my foot down I get lots of vibration though out the motor, if I then take my foot off the gas pedal its as smooth as anything I know the props need replacing, do you think it is just the props causing this or could it be something else.
It has a 2" OME lift on it.
I had a similar problem... but i found i could accelerate through the vibration and it stopped... turned out i had lumps of dried mud/clay on the insides of my rims that caused it. The vibration was horrendous, really shook the whole vehicle badly.
That does seem to happen a bit with mine, but I think the wheel are clean. I will double check though, or perhaps they need balancing? just seems strange it only happens under drive pressure.
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Double cardons are pricy and on 200Tdi's, dont know about 300s, you have to replace the output flange on the T box as well.
I am not aware of the need for a wide angle yoke on the rear prop. It is longer than the front so operates at less of an angle.
Tools for changing a UJ are simple and brutal. Hammer and drift (socket) to get them out. Grease (to stop roller bearings moving) a vice and a two £1 coins to get the new one in.
Where in birmingham are you Zulu? I could possably get over to you to show you how it is done. Half term week is coming up and I can normaly find a couple of hours at the weekend if you are not too far away.
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I checked the Prop today and there is play at both ends and also the on the slide, I tried to shake the output flange (sorry if its the wrong term) from the transfer box to the prop, there was a slight movement of about 1mm is this acceptable? or has the bearing gone, if so how easy / hard are they to change.
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Double cardons are pricy and on 200Tdi's, dont know about 300s, you have to replace the output flange on the T box as well.
I am not aware of the need for a wide angle yoke on the rear prop. It is longer than the front so operates at less of an angle.
Tools for changing a UJ are simple and brutal. Hammer and drift (socket) to get them out. Grease (to stop roller bearings moving) a vice and a two £1 coins to get the new one in.
Where in birmingham are you Zulu? I could possably get over to you to show you how it is done. Half term week is coming up and I can normaly find a couple of hours at the weekend if you are not too far away.
Cheers Bob, I changed the UJ's today, prop feels a lot better to the touch, but I still have the vibration I am going to give it a good going over tomorrow.
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I have now had all the wheels balanced, so I can rule that out.
But a new development is when I come to slow stop there is a clunking noise (sorry for the technical term :doh:) which I think is coming from the front Diff area, I drove her on full lock in both dirtections to see if the CV's were knocking but got not noise or vibration could the diff be on the way out?
Getting a bit stuck now?????
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Loose radius arm bush.
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The Plot thickens.
I changed the UJ's on the Rear today, the rear was quite bad, the 90 now feels a lot firmer to drive, but I still have this slight vibration, and when coming to a slow stop it sounds awful.
I have now taken the front prop off and drove it in diff lock, but still the same, it feels like something is binding as the 90 jolts then runs free then jolts....., can't explain it any better, like a brake sticking then releasing. I have jacked her up and all wheels appear to run OK, might be a slight bearing issue on the rear.
I also get quite a clonk when bringing the clutch up medium / fast, I have been told this is normal??? The output flange to the front prop can be turned about 1.25" before the rear prop moves, is that normal? or is that excessive?