Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Range Rover => Topic started by: Jonny Boaterboy on May 05, 2010, 21:48:46
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How do you describe a noise on Your Range Rover??? Any way, I have this noise which is getting worse, it starts off when I reverse, after going back a few feet there is a clonk, it feels like something jamming and then as the pressure increases it gives way i.e. a clunk, it sounds like it is coming from the rear Axel area. then as I drive off there is a tap/knocking noise that increases with road speed. I can get rid of it by stopping, reversing and pulling forward and then driving off, this seems to get rid of it until i have to reverse again
Any Ideas would be greatly received!!
Thanks
Jonny
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Hi, I think if it was me i would remove the rear diff & check it out, it souds like the cross pin that holds the planet gears in place has broken, i wouldn't leave it to long either as if it fails you may be stuck!!!!!!!
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I'd agree with madhouse! Get the back end lifted and (with vehicle safely chocked) remove the handbrake and rotate the wheels... you'll probably hear the problem. Might want to check your UJ's on the propshaft while your at it.
If you don't deal with this quickly, it could lead to chunks of hardware being fired through the diff casing... go on... ask me how I know!
Skibum
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As before the cross pin in the diff, or possibly the pinion bearing has collapsed in the nose of the diff.
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Perfect thanks for the reply s, I have another 50 miles of steady driving to do today then it will be in the garage and I'll drop the diff off and have a look. Is it ok to use components like brit part to replace any items? or would you stick with genuine items for the diff? I only ask as most of brit part stuff is cheap and nasty (only in my opinion!) and I want a good strong reliable diff
Thanks
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If the diff is knackered, I would buy a good second hand one rather than repair it. That way the truck will be back on the road the same day, you can then repair the knackered one at you leisure if you need / want to.
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Agreed, the good thing about second hand is it's well proved.
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second hand sounds good but where from and how do you know its a good unit?
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A) buy it from a mate
B) buy it from a breaker with a 30 day warranty
There are breakers on e-aby etc or try in our wanted section. Yours is a soft dash isn't it? if so you need a 24 spline form either end, the back one should have the rubber coupling, the front end has a normal UJ. You could fit a front diff and a hard-dash propshaft to get rid of the doughnut.
Expect to pay £40-£75 for a good second hand one (yes prices do vary that much) plus delivery.
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All sorted, It was the rear differiential that had gone, the pin through the plaet gears had snaped in two I think that was the cause of the clonk in reverse as it got jamed between the pinion and crown wheel, also the cause of the ticking noise as the unit rotated. Goe a secondhand Diff (just the gears and houseing) for £20 and put it all back together and all is good again :D
Just a quick last question shouuld the bolts on the doughnut on the prop shaft all be the same way or alternate? or does it not matter!
Thanks Jonny
Ps RRB, I havent forgot about the cd just flat out at the moment, will put a bouns in for you when I get round to it!
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No worries mate. IIRC the bolt heads go against the doughnut, the nuts go against the spider.