Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Defender => Topic started by: garybrun on December 27, 2007, 08:31:37
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While I was in England a few months back I called into see Jeremy J Fearn Motor Engineers Ltd.
What a fella and worked wonders with my TD5.
Came out with 248bhp and 515nm in torque along with a J.Fearn custom turbo (water cooled and oil cooled with 20psi boost pressure) and a wide bore stainless steal exhaust system.
Will take a picture later with the Mach 5s on.
Here are the specs of the defender.
Defender 110 Tdi5 248bhp & 515nm
J. Fearn Intercooler and chip upgrade.
J. Fearn racing paddle clutch.
J.Fearn custom turbo (water cooled and oil cooled) 20psi boost pressure.
J. Fearn Stainles steel large bore exhaust.
J. Fearn Silicon Hoses
Ashcroft Extreme CV joints & flanges.
Ashcroft Extreme Drive Shafts.
Croytec dash mods.
Full polly bush upgrade.
Scorpion Racing Extreme Kit
10 Mach 5 wheels with BF Mud Terain and Simex Exreme Treckers
Twin Maxima Batteries
Castor corrected front Radius Arms
ARB front and rear lockers plus ARB large compressor
Mantec Snorkel
Mantec internal window gaurds
Safety Devices Full External Roll Cage customized for Hannibal Roof rack
Howling Moon roof tent
Extreme 32 deg prop shafts double jointed
Wheel Carrier with hilift jack support
Custom tow hook
Full Salisbury Diff Guard
Rear Corner Bumpers
Mantec Internal Window protection
Extreme steering guard
Extreme danbars
Extreme track rod protection
Extreme Rock sliders
Extreme galvanised tank guard
Alloy wing tops
Exmoor Moulded Matting System
Exmoor Landrover rally Seats x 2
Forest Wires
PIF Lighting
PIA Lighting
Custom tow hook
Warn 9.5ti in cradle system /front/rear
30mtr Plasma Rope
Alloy fairlead Plasma rope
X-Tec Instrument Dashboard with all boost gauges,voltage, oil pressure.
Full Alimunium transport cases x 9
Large Pelican Cases x 6
Industrial firstaid kit
10 Mach 5s with Extreme Treckers and bf mud terain.
Full engine rebuild (Mc DonaldLandRovers Oswestry)
New Ashcroft high and Low range gear boxes
Pioneer DVD Satellite Navigation system
5.1 surround system.
ICOM IC 706MKIIG HF/VHF/UHF All mode transceiver
ICOM AH-4 Automatic HF 50mhz Antenna Tuner designed to tune a long wire antenna
ICOM AH-2b 2.5m long antenna element for mobile operations
Kenwood THD7 FM Dual bander with TNC hand Held.
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That a real defender mud and all.
The mods you have listed most of cost a few quid mate .I to would like some mods doing to my 110 td5 but have to wait until the wifes had our first born.
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That a real defender mud and all.
The mods you have listed most of cost a few quid mate .I to would like some mods doing to my 110 td5 but have to wait until the wifes had our first born.
Ive lost track of how much I have spent.
Theres even a new engine and new gear boxes high and low.
I set out to build the ultimate 110 TD5...
I think Ive nearly acheived that now.
Just need to add the X-brake. :lol:
Anyone suggest any other mods.
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mate,just read the specs an to say im impressed would be a massive understatement,well done!!!
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That a real defender mud and all.
The mods you have listed most of cost a few quid mate .I to would like some mods doing to my 110 td5 but have to wait until the wifes had our first born.
Ive lost track of how much I have spent.
Theres even a new engine and new gear boxes high and low.
I set out to build the ultimate 110 TD5...
I think Ive nearly acheived that now.
Just need to add the X-brake. :lol:
Anyone suggest any other mods.
yer, get rid of the scorpion stuff :tongue: :tongue: :tongue:
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That a real defender mud and all.
The mods you have listed most of cost a few quid mate .I to would like some mods doing to my 110 td5 but have to wait until the wifes had our first born.
Ive lost track of how much I have spent.
Theres even a new engine and new gear boxes high and low.
I set out to build the ultimate 110 TD5...
I think Ive nearly acheived that now.
Just need to add the X-brake. :lol:
Anyone suggest any other mods.
yer, get rid of the scorpion stuff :tongue: :tongue: :tongue:
Dont worry Dan...it'll FALL OFF eventually!!!!
the only mod i'd suggest is...point your mouse at www.devon4x4.com :wink:
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I was thinking of adding a rally trip meter.
Are these easy to install in a TD5??
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what dyno was it run on to give that power figure?
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what dyno was it run on to give that power figure?
I'm not sure.
The guy has a very good reputation... so I'm sure the figures are accurate.
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what dyno was it run on to give that power figure?
I'm not sure.
The guy has a very good reputation... so I'm sure the figures are accurate.
ok i shall refrase that
was it run on a dyno?
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what dyno was it run on to give that power figure?
I'm not sure.
The guy has a very good reputation... so I'm sure the figures are accurate.
ok i shall refrase that
was it run on a dyno?
Yes it was done on a rolling road.
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Very nice !!!
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my mate garage fits all fernys stuff when he tunes the landys up, its brilliant gear.
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the guy certainly knows his stuff.
I have two chips... one of 115bhp so I can pass the EU/MOT test :lol:
I would like to be able to switch between the two via a switch.
I think I will need two ecu's to accomplish this. Anyone any ideas??
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yeah its nice, but dosent have the appeal of my 90...
(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i207/tommo32/DSC00424.jpg)
Its got a stereo and everything. the problem is though, i need a 110 now for er..... carrying people... and that. so i would do you a straight swap if you wanted, seen as its christmas and all... :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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give me a few days to think about it. :lol:
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Are the exhaust manifolds original or JJF? A lot of people used to have problems with warping manifolds with his upgrades, because they push the envelope a little too far sometimes. I'll be interested to find out how you get on with it as time passes.
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Are the exhaust manifolds original or JJF? A lot of people used to have problems with warping manifolds with his upgrades, because they push the envelope a little too far sometimes. I'll be interested to find out how you get on with it as time passes.
The manifold is original but has been modified.
There are stronger bolts in the head to stop warping and he drilled some holes to take away stress to prevent warping.
I must say that I do have alot of power but I do not push it all the time. Its nice to know its there when needed. The turbo itself is a work of art. Will try and post somepictures for you to see.
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nice motor i am slowly getting my 90 in the same area of spec about another year and a i may be there
extremeteam nice to see you posting again i meant to say thanks for your pc wizadry just before xmas i am well pleased and i picked up one your intercoolers from d44 so i am well happy goes like a train now
any body got a spare mach 5 for sale by any chance
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One thing i'd suggest is a good alarm and a couple of decent mechanical immobiliser units, something like those that lock the clutch and brake pipes.
you've got a lovely truck there, would be a shame to lose it to some thieving pikey. :cry: :cry:
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One thing i'd suggest is a good alarm and a couple of decent mechanical immobiliser units, something like those that lock the clutch and brake pipes.
you've got a lovely truck there, would be a shame to lose it to some thieving pikey. :cry: :cry:
Those are good ideas.
Any suggestions?
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well as a TD5 it wont run without the ECU's permission. so i would advise an immobiliser that works with the ECU. a very good quality one.
With Tdi's if you put 12 volts to the fuel solonoid then it will run with no other electrics but with a td5 if you cant get the immobiliser to play ball then your not getting anywhere.
I leave mine with the steering on full lock with a stoplock on the steering wheel. makes it harder to get it on the back of a truck, you can crack the stoplocks off pretty easy though but its just more hassle for a theif.
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^^^^ There are ways around the ECU immobiliser (the factory one) so some physical/mechanical immobilisation would be hand too i reckon.
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i should imagine a top notch aftermarket one is pretty good though?
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well as a TD5 it wont run without the ECU's permission. so i would advise an immobiliser that works with the ECU. a very good quality one.
With Tdi's if you put 12 volts to the fuel solonoid then it will run with no other electrics but with a td5 if you cant get the immobiliser to play ball then your not getting anywhere.
I leave mine with the steering on full lock with a stoplock on the steering wheel. makes it harder to get it on the back of a truck, you can crack the stoplocks off pretty easy though but its just more hassle for a theif.
A td5 immobilser isn't hard to get around either lol :wink:
Personnally I'd make the seatbox where the ECU is lockable - preventing access to the ECU.
If you know what you are doing there are a few methods of getting a Td5 started... :wink: so this won't stop everyone - but will stop most.
One of the better mechanical methods is the mech lock - http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/Meck_Lock.html
And I'm slightly dubious of the 248bhp and 515Nm (at least for road use) but that is neither here or there....
Ian
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And I'm slightly dubious of the 248bhp and 515Nm (at least for road use) but that is neither here or there....
Ian
HI Ian thanks for the tip on the immobiliser.
When it comes to the stats what makes you dubious???
I saw the tuning and road read out graphs.
There was at least 20 mins of warming up the transmission on the rolling road and everything was at its optimum. I understand looking at your website that you also work with engine tuning. The hybrid turbo (water and oil cooled) has a boost pressure of 20ps, large inter cooler and wide bore exhaust system. Ill try and scan a copy of the read outs so you can look at them.
I would like to find away of just flicking from one chip to another.
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HI Ian thanks for the tip on the immobiliser.
When it comes to the stats what makes you dubious???
I saw the tuning and road read out graphs.
There was at least 20 mins of warming up the transmission on the rolling road and everything was at its optimum. I understand looking at your website that you also work with engine tuning. The hybrid turbo (water and oil cooled) has a boost pressure of 20ps, large inter cooler and wide bore exhaust system. Ill try and scan a copy of the read outs so you can look at them.
I would like to find away of just flicking from one chip to another.
Have replied to your other post about swapping maps....
While I don't doubt JF’s tuning ability.... a rolling road is not the most accurate method of providing power data... (although I would like to see the graphs)
Apart from an inaccurate rolling road (very common), the calculations to convert power at the wheels to flywheel can be somewhat dubious, and even just the slightest error by the operator can have a massive effect on the power output.
A rolling road is a very useful tuning aid, but personally I would always take quoted power figures with a pinch of salt.... the only accurate method to have the engine running on a calibrated engine dyno - but even then (as with a rolling road) it is not real life conditions!!! So you can ‘adjust’ various factors to improve engine performance.
The best method of establishing performance gains, regardless of any 'quoted' power figures, is to actually drive the car...
As long as you’re happy with the performance, how it drives and it does what you want it to do - then what it actually produces is irrelevant... power fiqures are just something to tell your mates down the pub.
Ian
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The best method of establishing performance gains, regardless of any 'quoted' power figures, is to actually drive the car...
As long as you’re happy with the performance, how it drives and it does what you want it to do - then what it actually produces is irrelevant... power fiqures are just something to tell your mates down the pub.
Ian
Thanks for the replys.
Thats the truth of it all above :lol:
Yes it drives great.... and I love the look on my mates faces who drive it too is worth every penny. Every one who does drive it autmatically want to boot the bloomin thing.
Im not a fast driver but its great to know you have it when needed.
Where the car comes into its element is when Im pulling the horse trailer with two horses in.
I do think what many forget when boosting performance is they dont modify other parts (transmission areas and clutch), etc. The stresses placed on these areas are dramatically increased. I also people in the tuning business dont really infom the clients about this area.
With the Simex tyres on this car it is wicked and I do play rough here in Norway. I have the Ashcroft cv joints and drive shafts fitted and mods to the gearbox.
I have been reading about getting burs on the cv joints though.
The 200bhpchip I had a while ago gave me problems with clutch slip while excellerating. The padel clutch has solved this problem now. Wonder how long the clutch will last though compared to a standard one?
Maybe a cheaper way for me is to upgrade the ecu to a flashable one and use the programmable gadget that was recommended.
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Thanks for the replys.
Thats the truth of it all above :lol:
Yes it drives great.... and I love the look on my mates faces who drive it too is worth every penny. Every one who does drive it autmatically want to boot the bloomin thing.
Im not a fast driver but its great to know you have it when needed.
Where the car comes into its element is when Im pulling the horse trailer with two horses in.
I do think what many forget when boosting performance is they dont modify other parts (transmission areas and clutch), etc. The stresses placed on these areas are dramatically increased. I also people in the tuning business dont really infom the clients about this area.
With the Simex tyres on this car it is wicked and I do play rough here in Norway. I have the Ashcroft cv joints and drive shafts fitted and mods to the gearbox.
I have been reading about getting burs on the cv joints though.
The 200bhpchip I had a while ago gave me problems with clutch slip while excellerating. The padel clutch has solved this problem now. Wonder how long the clutch will last though compared to a standard one?
Maybe a cheaper way for me is to upgrade the ecu to a flashable one and use the programmable gadget that was recommended.
The clutch is an interesting one....
In 'theory' a padel clutch isn't really for road use, so although taking the 'power' without slipping, and i'd imagine it will be lighter/smaller than the standard so would allow the engine to rev quicker.... the downside is it will wear out faster when used under normal conditions (i.e. in traffic etc etc). As to how long it will last??? A case of try it and see.
Have you fitted the optional oil cooler to your gearbox??
As it's name suggests, the R380 is designed to take 380Nm - but will take more - to a point :wink: It really depends on the power delivery and the way it is used. With the current turbo set-up, your not going to get massive torque at low RPM (wrong type of turbo), but I'd imgaine the torque curve does ramp up quite quickly.
By the sounds of it you've already got the strongest CV's and shafts etc etc.
ECU wise:Maybe a cheaper way for me is to upgrade the ecu to a flashable one and use the programmable gadget that was recommended.
Not quite as simple as that....
There are quite a few differences between early and late engines, and as such, there are differences in the ECU's.
Physically, you can run any ECU on any engine, and although it will run, it would not be ideal and you will get quite a few spurious error messages (among other things - some a bit more serious).
Really....
If you running a post 2002 engine, you want to run a post 2002 Flash Type (NNN****) ECU and if you are running an pre 2002 engine then really you want to run a pre 2002 none Flash ECU (MSB****)
However, there are a few exceptions....
Land Rover no longer supply none Flash MSB ECU, and have superseded them with the later NNN type - to coincide with this, they wrote a fuel and variant file suitable for the earlier pre2002 engines. So you can flash a NNN ECU with these files, and it becomes suitable for the earlier type engine.
Some tuners then modify this file, i.e. remap it, but I really don't see the point and would rather just change the chip on the customers existing ECU (and there is enough 'used' and new MSB ecu's around that replacements can be found for faulty ECU's) - I also find the end result using the correct ECU is always better.
So...
If you wanted to go down the route of a flashable ECU, then you would need to go back to JF and get him to provide you with a modified set of files for a flash (EU3) ECU - but done to suit a EU2 engine. And then you could use the Nanocom (or if you wanted to spend slightly more, the Rovacom system) to swap files.
I know some tuners/land rover specialists would just give you an EU3 file.... but I would stay clear, unless they will provide warranties etc etc (this is just my view point)
Ian