Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Defender => Topic started by: TDi90 on December 15, 2006, 19:23:58
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hi guys,
right rolly, my 200tdi 90 is running hot. last weekend i took the intercooler and the rad out, and flushed through (not the inside just the outside) from both directions... was a load of [PooPoo] in it as i suspected, once i had put it all together again, i of course topped up the fluid with BRAND NEW ANTIFREEZE and distilled water. 50/50 mix. after this, i ran her and was shocked to see the temp rise to exactly the same level. so this today, i went and got a brand new thermostat, and the bolt thing (where the crimped wire fits onto, you know the one?) and replaced the old ones. shocked to see it at the same level...
help please!!
Rob
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I had this prob. with my last Landrover.
Does the Landy overheat or is it just the Temp Gauge
showing its overheating.
Or have you not dared to try to see if it will over heat
I never did get to the bottom of it
I am wondering if its a elec problem as my only showed it
was over heating but never drove more that 10 miles or so
never realy pushed it
Lee
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well, i darent try and get her to overheat, but the guage is reading hot, the engine seems to be fine... and i know the thermostat is kicking in because i tried it today and it did its job.
its just puzzling...
Rob
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Have you got the right temperature sender thingy (the one that screws into the engine top). There are diffrent ones as there are diffrent thermostats.
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yeh, because she used to run right on the halfway... and would not budge...
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These seama to be exactly the same as what happened to mine
I too replaced all the bits you have
and like you say no change
see if you can pick up another Gauge
I bet it will not overheat...its electrical put money on it
Lee
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what kind of guage would i need?
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use you old sender and just rig the wires up to another
Gauge..go to a srappy and pull one out of any old motor
LEE
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so you think the guage has gone?
and surely i cant rip it out of ANY old motor? surely it has to be a diesel?
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It just a temp gauge will only cost you a few quid from a scappy
you can always take it back and say it doesnt work after
Dont want to shell out on a new Landy One and find
its not the gauge
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Land-Rover-Genuine-Temp-Gauge-Defender-TD5-Landrover_W0QQitemZ250060263682QQihZ015QQcategoryZ31348QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Lee
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Just how hot is it running?
I believe that antifreeze isn't a very good coolant so that you're now using a liquid that won't cool as well as the weak solution that you had before.
Then again it won't make that much difference although I certainly saw a change in the normal temperature when I watered my antifreeze down.
Mike
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o you have heat at the windscreen via the blower? If not it is airlocked. Try this first. It may be the water that is reaching the thermostat is not hot enough due to the airlock.
Two things to try
Blower and heater on full and gently rev her to about 1500 see if this pulls it through
Secondly
Try topping her up from the thermostat housing instead of from the header tank with hot water so activating the wax pellet that sits in the thermostat causing it to open and allowing circulation.
Hope this helps
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Not sure we have established if its over heating or not
:roll:
By bet still lies on a faulty gauge or electrics
LEE
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I also had this problem and mine was down to the gauge.... :? :?
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overheating... well i dont think so but where do you draw the line??
i mean, there have been no effects on the engine, or the running of rolly, but, the guage reads between half, and the Red.
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Good luck.. :wink:
LEE
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cheers bud, ill get another guage i think, and see if that does it!
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Just check your bottom hose if burns the crap outta your finger and or is similer ti the top one you've got a rad problem, if not then you can try elsewhere, how much water/freeze mix did she take?-could point to airlocks, take the thermostat out and feel you top hose before and after doing this if its hotter afterwards your stat is jammed, you need the correct gauge for you motor otherwise the reading will be completly wrong you must use one the same as what you have fitted now.
Ta Will.
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is it a genuine 200 tdi or a conversion....if a conversion they all run hot very close to hot on gauge ..if genuine change rad best 85.00 you ever spend
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They dont all run hot you just need the correct sender in the head mine is a 200 conversion from a disco and it runs fine gauge sits at 1/4 to 1/3 max with fan on and 1/2 ish with it off unless i'm off roading.
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if the gauge rises to a certain point then sits there without moving, i'd say you havent got a problem. does the gauge actually reach the red at all?
have you fixed any electrical faults recently? just before this started, like a new battery or alternator? or fixed a faulty earth?
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I had exactly the same problem on my One-Ten.
That turned out to be the gauge :D
Although, it was a conversion (defender engine into Td Landy)
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exactly the same ocnversion.... but it was converted a while back. before i got her. i have not had any problems before... she used to run at dead on center, but since about 2 weeks ago she rund dead on between the half and the red.
no she never goes up to the red, just sits at between half and red.
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HI,
just joined the forum :)
My 90 (200tdi) was doing the same after a coolant change (and water pump) and the bottom hose was not getting hot.
One thing i did was change the water gauge for a tims gauge that reads actuall temperature not just a white section and a red section. I got it off ebay for about 20 quid cause it was a electric one not capilary.
When i changed the sender unit quite a bit of air came out the housing before water did. Fitted new sender and gauge and took it for a drive and temp gauge gets upto about 90 degrees and now the bottom hose gets red hot.
i think undoing the sender unit released a air lock that i had no other way of removing cause there is no bleed screws on the termostat housing.
The gauge was 50mm so fits in exact same place as old one.
try undoing the sender unit and letting a bit of air/water out of thermostat housing then put it back in. Then take it for another drive see if it made any difference.
Cheers
Dan
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already changed the sender unit :wink:
but cheers, and welcome :wink:
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i pointed a temp meter at the engine ,pipes ,rad infact every where,, took 2 to 3 mins so i new engine was running correct .It turn out to be a bad earth on temp guage .....get a lazer temp meter its amazing what you can check with out dismantling or spending
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how much and from where?
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44 quid from snap-on man and work from 50 meters away aswel :lol:
but am sure draper or someone will do 1 cheaper :roll:
rob what have you changed recently ?
if it was a dodgey earth or summat like, the temp guage surely would be fluctuating and not staying in a constant place, abit like my fuel guage :roll:
go over a bump its all over the place :roll:
danny
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my dodgy earth caused it to read hotter than it realy was (think its to do with resistance) but i was told it might be head gaskets ,water pumps ect so i panic .My local garage mate told me to get the temp reader 28pounds and i tested everything so quickly,you can follow water tempures as you start up and see thermostat opening ,and hot spots on your rad ect
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ive got one for 4 stoke outboard's (boat engine) cause ya cant test them see how hot they running with ya finger like the good old 2 stokes :lol:
found that out the hard way :roll:
its got to be something that he's done/disturbed recently
danny
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well, danny, it doesnt fluctuate, she just sits at between the half and red, and does not budge....
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have you got any friends close by to swap guages then :wink:
then you know for sure then if its guage or not :wink:
quick and easy
danny
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yes i do! Lord Shagg Pyle!! LOL! - HELP!
nah just joking, i might aswell just get a new guage, there is nothing else left to check...
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but what if it isnt that :wink:
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well i *think* i have checked all else... i mean what else could it be?
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try a new earth from the center holding nut
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Just a thought...have you done the 'sniff test' to make sure the head gasket hasent gone? The smell of exahust fumes in the coolant will indicate a blown head gasket, equally any loss of coolant other than what would be expected normally could indicate a blow head gasket.
More often than not your local garage will do a head gasket test for next to nothing if you'r in any doubt. :)
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my 2.5td is doing exactly this.
drained coolant, used rad cleaner stuff, changed thermostat and sender unit. reading is more stable, but sits on the edge of the white.
not sure what it is. would a dogy viscous fan produce these symptons, or a dodgy water pump.
(coolant didn't have any oil in, and engine oil is clean when it stays in there long enough).
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yeah its odd!! lol~!
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Here is an unorthodox test. Partially drain the coolant.Put some food colorant into the top up water at the expansion tank. Run the motor to operating temp to ensure thermostat opens. Remove top rad hose first. Check the color of the fluid. This will tell you two things. whether or not the water is circulating; water pump. Or if you have a blocked rad core. Once you have established it's not a mechanical problem. You can move to the temp sender unit/electrics. You seemed to have covered all the other stuff. (I'd put my money on the electrical side)
I am not familiar with your engine. Is there a way to bleed the system whilst it's running. Can the thermostat housing be slightly cracked, or the sender unit, or anything else. Allowing you to bleed the system whilst the pump is running? An airlock would do much to prevent water flow aound the system. The obvious precaution is to run the motor with the surge tank cover off to prevent pressure build up. Also to not do so with hot coolant.
Hope you get sorted.
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cheers for all the replies... will keep everyone updated!
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I've had this problem too.. glad I'm not alone!
110 with a disco 200tdi. Always used to run just below halfway, now runs around the top of the white and sometimes smells warm. Heater won't blow hot any more. Tried changing coolant, then thermostat, then swearing, then head gasket and nothing has succeeded. Engine pulls well and appears to run fine. The guy at my local specialist suggested I'd know if she was actually overheating as it'd run like a pig.
My thinking is I've either managed to get a big old airlock which has killed the temp sender and/or water pump or the temp problem and heater problem are unrelated and purely coincidental. When it first happened I was at a rather amusing nose-in-the-air angle :lol:
Will keep an eye on this thread gonna try the water pump next I think!
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before you try all that try the guage... check the earth on the guage, and maybe get a new guage, thats what im trying next, after that if she still is hot, i might look into things like water pump etc... (water pump seems to be fine though :shock: )
R
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I've had this problem too.. glad I'm not alone!
110 with a disco 200tdi. Always used to run just below halfway, now runs around the top of the white and sometimes smells warm. Heater won't blow hot any more. Tried changing coolant, then thermostat, then swearing, then head gasket and nothing has succeeded. Engine pulls well and appears to run fine. The guy at my local specialist suggested I'd know if she was actually overheating as it'd run like a pig.
My thinking is I've either managed to get a big old airlock which has killed the temp sender and/or water pump or the temp problem and heater problem are unrelated and purely coincidental. When it first happened I was at a rather amusing nose-in-the-air angle :lol:
Will keep an eye on this thread gonna try the water pump next I think!
what temp sender you using?
when i had the disco engine in mine it always read high,very high,my fans come on at 92'c & that would equate to the guage of the scale :lol:
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She ran at the right place on the gauge for years, so if it is the gauge it's a recent issue.
Bottom rad hose is cold, as is most the rad, and the heater's not blowing hot. Methinks no circulation for some reason.
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Are you dead certain that you have the right thermostat - don't some need a little hole in them - and that it's the right way round! Ran mine with no thermostat and it would show as overheating at a steady 55 because it needed the back pressure to circulate the coolant.
The engine never smelt hot so I didn't really believe it was overheating just the bit round the sender was damned hot.
Mike
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it still could be the sender/gauge giving you dud info. mine was running warm (close to red) acording to the gague with a viscous fan on.
Now i dont run a viscous fan but use a tim temp gauge (which reads degrees) and now it usually sits about 80 and creeps upto 90 if im driving hard. Also my bottom hose is only luke warm which would be right seeing as the thermostat only opens at 88.
id change the gauge, its cheap and easy to do before you start doing water pumps etc.
Here is a capilary one, but you will have to run some pipe from the housing into the dash. not my idea of a good idea
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TIM-WATER-TEMP-GAUGE-CAPILLARY_W0QQitemZ230064639117QQihZ013QQcategoryZ72205QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Here is a elctric one that i fitted but i didnt pay 33 quid!
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/New-TIM-Black-Face-Water-Temperature-Elec-Gauge-52mm_W0QQitemZ230065394014QQihZ013QQcategoryZ72215QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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Just my 2 penneth but I had a similar years ago on an old Escort. Does you fuel guage read higher than it used to? can you tell?
The temp and fuel guages run from a voltage stabiliser so they don't go up and down with the engine revs, older ones use s bimetlaic strip heated by the current going through it, so they tick. After a while they can break and if it sticks on you guages run from 14.3 volts rather than the 7 or 8 volts they are meant to.
Incidentlayy these things look and work very much like old flasher units :wink:
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Just how hot is it running?
I believe that antifreeze isn't a very good coolant so that you're now using a liquid that won't cool as well as the weak solution that you had before.
Mike
modern antifreeze is "antifreeze and summer coolant", it moves the freezing point down and the boiling point up, it also has good heat exchanging capabilities so does cool pretty well AFAIK.
Matt
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well, i am at the moment in austria, so i dont have the ölandy with me, but i have changed everyting, as i have said before:
1 - a complete rad flush
2 - changed the sender,
3 - changed the thermostat -
i done it all!!
the only thing i have not done is changed the guage, but she has been running fine on that guage for ages.!!
argh its really annoying me, and im not even back home yet!!
cheers guys Rob
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After checking the electric gauge and regulator etc...
Check for an air lock in the head!...
You can do this when it's cold, if you modify an old rad' cap to take a tyre valve, and presurise the system to at the most 10PSI. (Less than that will do usually, say 5PSI) Then slacken off the highest heater hose where it goes to the heater matrix. Gently let any air out till you get neat coolant, then re-secure the clip. Let the air out of the resoviour and top up as needed.
If your engine is tilted up at the front slightly, then park with the front of the Landy downhill, or jack the rear end up before doing that. Use propper stands, so it doesnt fall off, or reverse up onto a couple of old wheels etc.
Just because you get hot air from the heater in the cab, does not mean you dont have an air lock! Ti's a common problem, but get it sorted, as the ally' head and gasket dont take kindly to being cooked.
It's also worth checking the injection timing, if that's out, it can cause over heating too, but you usualy notice the difference in the way the engine works and sounds. Also check the oil cooler does not have an air lock in, I'll let you figure that out! It can get messy if you are not very careful!.....
Lastly make sure your brakes are not sticking, also common, though you often notice the extra fuel it uses first, and the fact that it will roll to a stop with a bit of a jolt if thats the case.
Enjoy....
Dave B.
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cheers dave.
not in the country atm, but will be back soon!!
thanks for all replies