Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Discovery => Topic started by: SnakeLogic on March 05, 2007, 14:16:52
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Is there any real difference between a 2" and a 3" lift?
Well, let be qualify that. Though I don't teach mathematics, I understand that a 3" lift will give an extra inch of lift. I'm more interested in required upgrades, handling, etc. 2" seems to be the most popular by far, and I'm wondering why.
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yep - 1" ;)
a 2" lift is about as far as you can realistically go without tipping over on corners at anything more than 10mph, and also a 2" lift is roughly at the limits of the prop UJ's etc, so you'll need to change alsorts...
put basically:
2" = the norm, and adequate for pretty much everything. might have problems, might not
3" = the hardcore norm. most likely run into a lot of problems for the sake of an extra inch.......... just fit bigger tyres instead
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yep - 1" ;)
a 2" lift is about as far as you can realistically go without tipping over on corners at anything more than 10mph, and also a 2" lift is roughly at the limits of the prop UJ's etc, so you'll need to change alsorts...
put basically:
2" = the norm, and adequate for pretty much everything. might have problems, might not
3" = the hardcore norm. most likely run into a lot of problems for the sake of an extra inch.......... just fit bigger tyres instead
And don't forget you could fit a 10" lift and it won't give you any extra ground clearance than a standard discovery already has. The only reason for a lift kit is to allow you to fit bigger wheels and tyres. The diffs are the lowest point on the vehicle snd they're underneath the suspension mountings. Lifting the body doesn't alter the height of the diffs. Ok it will give you a better approach/departure angle but that's all it'll do.
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And don't forget you could fit a 10" lift and it won't give you any extra ground clearance than a standard discovery already has. The only reason for a lift kit is to allow you to fit bigger wheels and tyres. The diffs are the lowest point on the vehicle snd they're underneath the suspension mountings. Lifting the body doesn't alter the height of the diffs. Ok it will give you a better approach/departure angle but that's all it'll do.
all true, except that the third reason for a lift is to increase articulation if you do a proper job :)
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And don't forget you could fit a 10" lift and it won't give you any extra ground clearance than a standard discovery already has. The only reason for a lift kit is to allow you to fit bigger wheels and tyres. The diffs are the lowest point on the vehicle snd they're underneath the suspension mountings. Lifting the body doesn't alter the height of the diffs. Ok it will give you a better approach/departure angle but that's all it'll do.
all true, except that the third reason for a lift is to increase articulation if you do a proper job :)
Agreed :lol: Wasn't knocking lifts going to fit a 2" lift to mine when I've sorted all the welding, drivetrain knocking problems etc. It's just that I find that a lot of people think a lift will give them lots of extra ground clearance whereas if your offroading consists of greenlaning and RTVs stiffer springs and slightly larger wheels will probably be more than adequate.
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Much the same as above, just fitted a 2" lift to mine, didn't go with any bigger as I trust the experience and judgment of people on here and the general concensus was if you go bigger than 2" you are opening up a whole big can of trouble, Have a look at my post (in here somewhere) for before and after pics of my 2" lift, with the tyres I have gained 4 1/2" from what it was, original springs sag over the years so you probably loose an inch in 10 years than when it left the showroom.
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Any lift will increase approach and departure angles, breakover angles etc.
A lift plus big tyres will get clearence under the diffs, so it depends on how you tackle obsticles.
Anyway, every inch of lift adds about 1 1/2 degree to the front propshaft UJ and reduces castor by the same amount.
Castor correction makes the top UJ even worse whilst straightening out the bottom UJ (assuming 3 degrees of correction).
But as already said, above 2 degrees you start having to think about a new front prop (cardan or wide angle), you really must fit castor correction (though this can be done with modified swivels), brake lines etc etc, none of which comes cheap.
And it will handle a lot worse.