Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Series Land Rovers => Topic started by: greatbignath on May 04, 2007, 16:58:05
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just picked up my £50 series III SWB truck cab, and 4 tractor wheels (made the gutless wonder that is my transit powered rangy struggle!!!).
it has been stood for a good few years but i recon its a goer.... the chassis is a bit rough around the edges, mainly the outriggers. not sure if it runs but "it did wne it drove here" at least 4 years ago.
it has some vaccum thingy on it with what looks like a tank under the front nearside wing and a coupling on the back......what is it??
are there any hidden nasties that i may encounter on this little resto project? how easy is it to strip the body work? and is there any literature on the subject of restoring landies?
picks will be available soon (when i can persuade my likkle sis (21 soon i think) to take some).
cheers nathan.
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it has some vaccum thingy on it with what looks like a tank under the front nearside wing and a coupling on the back......what is it??
May be the Powered Brake System that was available to tow up to 3.5-4 tonnes.
are there any hidden nasties that i may encounter on this little resto project? how easy is it to strip the body work? and is there any literature on the subject of restoring landies?
Rot on the chassis and bulkhead, and seized bolts.
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yeah thats about all you need to know.
with the nuts and bolts i find it useful having an impact driver I picked up for £180.00 & free hardened bits, if this can't handle them nuts, then you want a hacksaw / angle / cutting disks etc
once the front floor panels are off (on the SWB version) the rest is easy. well. nearly. 4 screws and 2 nuts and bolts for the transmission tunnel, 23 nuts / bolts for the seat box, 18 nuts and bolts for the rear tub. roof is easy. front wings are hard to get to at the back, and has a nut / bolt securing it to the steering box hold plate (part of the chassis).
Wiring loom nuts and bolts I would think are the hardest.
You'll need to disconnect the fuel / breather pipes from the fuel tank, before removing the rear tub.
If you are careful, you can still drive a series with just engine, batt, bulkhead, and chassis and running gear. body is optional.
took me about a week in relaxed conditions for mine.
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yep as mentioned when taking pannels off hardest thing were those bolts...rusty as anything....sheared loads..angle grinded the rest :D
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cheers chaps.
the chassis is a bit rotten, the bulkhead has a couple of bits that need attention but appart from that it dont look to bad!!!!
gonna look at my old mans series III and see which chassis is a better candidate for my welding theropy sessions!!!!
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haynes manual and a landy restoration guide from haynes a couple of gems also a parts book helps
as to the tank i ve seen these befor on mod prototypes with a braked trailer