Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Range Rover => Topic started by: SPIKEY on October 21, 2004, 23:25:43
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Have you got a 4 speed lazy auto box? Try the following:
When I purchased my '88 3.5 E.F.I. it was struggling to go in to gear when cold, and revving high in - between gears.
The solution? - change the auto gearbox filter.
Buy a Haynes manual, follow the step by step guide and you will be pleasently surprised.
Take the crossmember off under the 'box,drain the transmission oil,un-do the filter, re-new it, re-assemble and top up with new oil and in my case it was if a new box was in the car.
A rogue mate of mine told me he had charged people £600 for this job, as it really improves your gearchanges.
20 odd quid for the filter and a tenners worth of oil - what have you got to lose?
Sorry rogue traders - your number is up !!!!!
Cheers,
SPIKEY.
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Will give that a try soon as I get a free day :) cheers
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Don't expect miracles... if the filter screen is blocked it will cause a sluggish response, but my experience has been that it's more often than not the main cause.
If the cross member hasn't been out in a while, make sure you give yourself plenty of time to do the job, you will usually need to remove part of the exhaust as well as one of the gearbox mounts.
Don't want to be a gloom-meister... sorry.
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Good to know these things before starting/trying them :)
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is the filter a genuine part only?? if so do you have the part number, i have bought oil and planed to do this job in a week or so.
are there any other bits needed i.e gaskets etc.
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Worth checking, but I think that the following contains the bits you need :
http://www.mansfieldmotorsltd.co.uk/shop/en/browse/Range+Rover+Classic/1/0/12/46/101
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Hi Muskie.
There is a filter and gasket on E-Bay at present. The seller quotes the following part numbers;
RTC 4268
RTC 4653
One is the filter, and one is the gasket.
I should'nt really be sharing this information as I have bid myself, but if it helps someone else out and saves money - thats what it's all about.
As for Muddyweb, the crossmember thing is quite right.
There was 8 bolts holding my x-member on, and looking at the corrosion it had never been changed.
WD 40 and a sledgehammer did the trick for me, tapping the beam down a little at a time.
Some - one later suggested that I could have spread the chassis a little using a PortaPower hydraulic ram,allowing the beam to simply drop out, but knowing the power of these rams I would not suggest it.
The only other parts that the Haynes manual suggest is re-newing the 'O' rings on the pick-up pipe. I did not do this and the motor is still running fine.
Remember 1 thing - do not fill the auto box up with the recommended amount of ATF - the torque converter still holds a lot of oil even when the drain plug is out the box and filling up can lead to you overfilling the box.
In my case I had to drain a little oil off to get the mark on the stick.
Cheers,
Spikey.
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thanks mate.
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There was 8 bolts holding my x-member on, and looking at the corrosion it had never been changed.
WD 40 and a sledgehammer did the trick for me, tapping the beam down a little at a time.
Some - one later suggested that I could have spread the chassis a little using a PortaPower hydraulic ram,allowing the beam to simply drop out, but knowing the power of these rams I would not suggest it.
Cheers,
Spikey.[/quote]
Th Haynes manual suggests a length of wood and a wedge but if your careful with the portapack then no harm should be done.