Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Defender => Topic started by: 90sam on September 02, 2007, 19:15:14
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Well now its getting closer to me driving and i have some money! I need to soundproof my 90 cause i wanna hear the radio! It's got a tdi fitted and its on mud tyres. Where shall i soundproof and whats best to use? I was thinking rubber matting cause then its good for mud, but is it good at absorbing sound? What have you people all used? Where is the best place to get it from and what glue to use? I've got no soundproofing at all not even on the rear roof!
Kind Regards
Sam
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is it a hardtop?
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sound proofing
peh
how u think i feel with simex and the drone of the 200 :shock: , ive got nuffin anywhere
but..
you can get soundproofing to go onto the bonnet
rubber floor+ trans mat's get rid of the transmission and some of the engine drone
pointless in putting anything in the roof :roll:
you can also buy gearbox jackets if your that concerned about noise :roll:
but id say stop being a woman and just turn the radio up, doesnt bother me at all :P
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I've got a 200 and its a hardtop but i may put windows in. I've got sags which roar abit on the road!
Thats the thing i've got like 4 terrible speakers out some mondeo or something which start cracking when you turn them up so want to just quiet it down a lil bit, im not expecting it to be totally silent tho just some improvement! Wouldnt the bonnet stuff melt on the turbo as on mine its pretty high up, i may buy some rubber and try it out.
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windows in the back will quieten it down. failing that, use some spray adhesive and stick some tough carpet to em, it will dull down the noise they make a bit.
cover the gearbox tunnel and footwells with rubber, and shove some soundproofing on the underneath of the bonnet... get some off a broken defender or something. probably isnt that much anyway. i've got some you could have maybe, but its kinda falling apart.
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no the bonnet sound proofing if a fibre type stuff dont use rubber :roll:
sound proofing the side panels wont make no difference,
the sound rises up, echo'ing in the arches and up the chassis
best bet if your really concerned is to fit some rubber down onto the rear floor then carpet the rear tub wheel arch's
after that theres no gain, just expence and daftness :roll:
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i'll look under the bonnet of the defender i took the engine out, then get some rubber for the floors
Cheers theblueysilverthing and abyssdj
Sam
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the best sound insulation I have got is a set of small yellow foam ear plugs from the ranges. probably cost about £2
works a treat and yes you can hear emergency service vehicles with them in , in fact better than if you didn't
failing that I'd go for bulkhead floors transmission tunnel and everywhere else that has been suggested. It will never be silent thoght.
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if you fancy spendin some cash about 11-15 quid a roll (depending where you get it) you could go the whole hog lol
took me about 2 nites to finish and the difference is awesome! completly removed the amount of noise the solid body made, may even do the roof above front seats and doors yet, little warmer too but dont expect too much lol
(http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/8381/04102006rl9.jpg)
(http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/32/05102006001pz3.jpg)
(http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/3078/03112006002wb5.jpg)
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I'm in the process of doing the 110 - bought a few metres of standard, fibre sound-deadening stuff from my local motor factors, a couple of tins of contact adhesive and spent a 'happy' couple of hours lining the rear roof and sides.
The side panels then got lumps of polystyrene building insulation (Wickes 3 quid for an 8'x2' sheet) fitted, and finally I fitted 7mm external grade ply (acquired, don't ask :twisted: ) to hold the polystyrene in place (and give me somewhere to fix 'things'. Might even stick some plack carpet over the ply to really tidy it up !
As for the rear floor - I don't want anything that will absorb water (like the fibre stuff I used on the sides) as it will go manky when I bung wet camping gear in there, so will be using 3mm thick rubber matting - stuck to the tops and sides of the wheel arches, but the bit on the floor will be a loose fit.
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A good option for the roof and sides of the rear tub is foil backed closed cell foam laminate floor underlay. this is easy to stick on aith a spray or contact adhesive is easy to cut and not that expensive. waterproof and because it's foil lined it's also has good thermal insulation properties and reduces condensation
You can use it on the floor and wheel boxes but you'd need to put rubber matting over the top of it to protect it from wear & tear.
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I've heard nothing but good comments about the WrightOffRoad acoustic sound proofing they produce. It fits in the cab area on the floor, seat box, and inside of part of bulkhead. can be hose piped out too (good for lack of door seals). That is meant to make a noticable difference to the cab area for sound.
Also you could go for a bit more, and get the Noisekiller bulkhead mat to further reduce the engine noise.
As for the rest of the noise, i've put Noisekiller soundproofing in the rear of my 110, on the floor, wheel arch sides, tops and body tub sides. The hard top has headlining from a mini, but thats not for noiseproofing thats for no condensation in the winter, and less panel booming.
It's gonna cost for decent stuff. You get what you pay for.
matt
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ive got the wright offroad kit and the difference is amazing........totally worth the money (about 200 quid)...............plus the fella is a thoroughly nicve chap to boot!!!
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Along the same lines, would similar fixes help stop my tin top roof from bouncing at about 50+mph?
Sounds a bit like this blokes in the back.
(http://newsimg.bbc.co.uk/media/images/41775000/jpg/_41775668_rolf_board_bbc203.jpg)
I expect to hear 'Stairway to Heaven' start at any moment :roll:
Or do i need to brace it in some way?