Mud-club

Vehicle & Technical => Defender => Topic started by: zulublue on August 06, 2007, 18:35:52

Title: Water Tight
Post by: zulublue on August 06, 2007, 18:35:52
After buying a my latest LR 90 2,5tdi and then locking the engine up after 3 day's in packington ford due to a ill fitted snorkel, I am now ready to put the new engine in, I am doing the cam belt front seal back seal cam and crank seal water pump front and rear seal.

I will check the intercooler for leaks
And I will redesign the snorkel

Is there anything else I should look to change / check whilst the engine is out, esp as I don't want to lock another engine up?

Mark.
Title: Water Tight
Post by: diggerdog36 on August 06, 2007, 20:46:21
Im fitting my snorkel at the moment, I took the pipes off 1 by 1 to check they are air tight, first put your hand over the inlet manifold, it should suck hard then stall,
then put the top intercooler pipe onto the manifold, put hand over, it should collapse the pipe then stall, then fit it to the top of the intercooler, now do the same at the bottom of the intercooler, again it should stall, and so on and so on!!
Every pipe I fitted had tiny holes in, so I wrapped them in self vulcanising rubber I got from work, now 100% air tight, the last test you can do is stick a bin bag over the top of the snorkel, all the pipes should suck flat and the engine should slowly die!!
Title: Water Tight
Post by: markyb on August 07, 2007, 19:05:58
you must have been unlucky as river crossing the other week hit the wind screen and ive not fully tested the snork.

will do that before next wadding session
Title: Re: Water Tight
Post by: Cassillis on August 08, 2007, 09:16:05
Quote from: "zulublue"
After buying a my latest LR 90 2,5tdi and then locking the engine up after 3 day's in packington ford due to a ill fitted snorkel, I am now ready to put the new engine in, I am doing the cam belt front seal back seal cam and crank seal water pump front and rear seal.

I will check the intercooler for leaks
And I will redesign the snorkel

Is there anything else I should look to change / check whilst the engine is out, esp as I don't want to lock another engine up?

Mark.


Not in the engine, but make sure the rubber drain phlange in the bottom of the airbox is new and pliable. The older it is the more brittle it will be and will stay open or be cracked allowing water ingress. I removed mine totally and welded the drain shut, then siliconed the airbox closed. Means i have to check it periodically but hey it's easier than another bent con rod :wink:
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