Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Discovery => Topic started by: ian101 on November 10, 2007, 01:16:34
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I am planning to change my tyres to 265 AT's, trim the arches and put some flares on. I am also helping things along by fitting a 2" lift, which system is recognised as the best, bearing in mind I still need to drive 70 miles a day, many of which are on motorways. My off roading is 1 or 2 sessions a month at pay and play sites
I appreciate it's all about compromise but I was wondering if one make stands above the rest or is it personal preferance?
Thanks
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Hi I have scorpion racing springs (progressive on the rear) and Koni heavy track adjustable shocks all round.
Works well. Polybushes help too.
Rich
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For 265/70s there is no need for a lift. Trim the rear arches and front spoiler ends will give enough clearance. Any larger diameter is when you need the lift.
Pete.
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ive just put a 2" lift on with scorpion springs and extended pro comp shocks i cant fault the ride but theres people on here who dont like scorpion so its personal choice i run 265x75x16 anacondas on mine and it just catches the bumper ends and just touches the radius arms.
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For 265/70s there is no need for a lift. Trim the rear arches and front spoiler ends will give enough clearance. Any larger diameter is when you need the lift.
Pete.
I'd disagree...I'm running 265 and they just catch on the mud flap brackets on the rear on full articulation...
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235/75 R16 goodrich MTs, longer shocks, spring retainers.... thus allowing more travel, without sacrificing the road ride too much.
will also save having to replace the prop UJ every other week 8)
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Was kinda hoping to stick with AT's due to road handling, I guess there is no straigt forward answer. Its a case of trying to get one vehicle to do two jobs, when this happens, one area will be sacrificed slightly, I guess I need to decide which is a priority, if its road manners or off road ability.......
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Like many I'm a fan of Old Man Emu kit. I run BFG All Terrains with just under 2" lift and I love the combo. I *will* get stuck sometimes where MTs would have got me through, but the road manners are great and they last forever. The OME shocks seem to take a lot of pounding and the ride is fine.
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With the OME kit did you change just the springs and shocks or have you lengthened brake lines, changed the castor correction etc etc?
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Have just been looking on the net, not too many UK stockists.... One company on e-bay doing a 40mm lift kit for 550 notes, Doest this seem good?
Any recomendations on stockists?
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If you want to be able to drive it on the road like it does now then I'd suggest you forget the 2" lift or be prepared to spend as much again on castor correction, brake hoses, propshafts etc etc as you do on springs and shocks.
I'd suggest a 1" lift with H/D springs and plus 2" dampers. Any longer on the dampers and you will need longer bump stops.
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Thanks RRB, that sounds fair enough to me.
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If you want to be able to drive it on the road like it does now then I'd suggest you forget the 2" lift or be prepared to spend as much again on castor correction, brake hoses, propshafts etc etc as you do on springs and shocks.
I would have to agree with Mr Blues on this one.
I would also like to add that some vehicles seem more prone to requiring caster correction than others (although I would not like to comment on how much this is as a consequence of the 'mechanical sympathy' of the driver). The steering of a Disco should self correct (with some gusto, too), the car shouldn't wander at all, and monthly UJ replacement shoudl not be necessary. Check for vibration coming from the front once any lift is fitted too.
If you find any of the above changes, then you will need to undertake corrective measures, and this all costs money. A lot of the shops won't tell you this (becuase you will be put off buying their 'cheap' lift kit. Beleive or not, but I have had one purveyor try and tell me that their lift kit wouldn't affect the handling at all! Oh, how I laughed (before making my excuses and leaving his stand!).
In terms of castor-correction arms - I'm not convinced about any of the fabricated arms (talking about the hockey sitcks only) on the market, and J Fearns aluminium ones are frighteningly expensive (and in my view untested to market standards). Heating and bending the arms is inviting trouble to the party. The corrected swivels are a better way forward but they are a pain to fit. The off-set bushes are an intriging one, but as with a lot of things I would be very uncertain about them. Manufacturers only usually fit offset bushes to provide a quick and dirty solution to problems (i.e. 'a bodge').
Further ramblings - hopefully some of use!
toodles
Boots
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Intersting point of view re the radius arms. I'm using the QT ones and though they have been fine, I'm keeping an eye on them :wink: . Fitting corrected swivles (are they 3 degree or 6?) would off course not effect the Propshaft angle and possibly avoid the need for an expensive prop, though it would rumble a little. Definitely worth thinking about if your swivles look ropey anyway.
One thing I often forget to mention is how badly the front tyres wear out on a lifted car without castor correction.
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One thing I often forget to mention is how badly the front tyres wear out on a lifted car without castor correction.
Good point!
I have the QT arms too, but since I've bought them I have been pondering the wisdom of them (and having seen a few more sets written off by other users).
Toodles
Boots
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i have rear cranked arms and castor correction bushes on the front... bear in mind after a lift you need to have the tracking checked... (as i discovered after lowering a previous car... new tyres lost aall one edge down to the threads in 2 months!)
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One thing I often forget to mention is how badly the front tyres wear out on a lifted car without castor correction.
Good point!
I have the QT arms too, but since I've bought them I have been pondering the wisdom of them (and having seen a few more sets written off by other users).
Toodles
Boots
What are the weak area(s) with the QT radius arms? I'm looking to make a single link front suspension using a similar construction so it would be good to know where in particular needs improving on existing products.
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Thanks for all the input fellas,
Having read all of the above I think I may be best to keep the disco at standard height, "the way god intended". It gets used far more 'on' road than it does 'off' road and I cant compromise the 'on' road side of things when I have a 45 min fast commute each day.
The real solution is to get a small diesel car for driving to work and back, then play around with the disco a bit more.
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The real solution is to get a small diesel car for driving to work and back, then play around with the disco a bit more.
That or get a suitable trailer for the disco to tow and get suitable toy like a CCV trialer to go on it.
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Thanks for all the input fellas,
Having read all of the above I think I may be best to keep the disco at standard height, "the way god intended". It gets used far more 'on' road than it does 'off' road and I cant compromise the 'on' road side of things when I have a 45 min fast commute each day.
The real solution is to get a small diesel car for driving to work and back, then play around with the disco a bit more.
Might be worth checking to see how tired your current springs are, a new set might make the truck a whole lot nicer to drive and restore it to as new ride-height.
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What are the weak area(s) with the QT radius arms? I'm looking to make a single link front suspension using a similar construction so it would be good to know where in particular needs improving on existing products.
For my liking (and this could be argued to be a personal view) they lack the mechanical stiffness and longevity of the forged products. In terms of sheer robustness, I've always looked at the competitive safari lads and lasses as the yardstick. Very few people race with the QT arms anymore, simply because they aren't up to the job. The standard arms are.
Standard radius arms are heavy - but for a really, really good reason.
Toodles
Boots