Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Defender => Topic started by: LAND-ROVER-PIMP on November 05, 2006, 01:28:48
-
Hi all,
I know I should have had a diff guard, but my first trip off road with my 110 turned a little more extreme than I had planned!! IT WAS FANTASTIC!!! WOW!! I LOVE IT!! But i've cracked the casing at the bottom, :cry: Has any one used the weld on repair pan you can get? Advise would be great if you can help.
Cheers.
-
How bad is the crack?
I have plugged small holes in my diff pans where they rusted through with a chemical weld type of product - you know what I mean the two tube resin stuff. Both have held for over a year so it seems to work. But my holes were half way up so easier to clean. I think the main point is to clean as well as you can and get all hint of oil off.
It's a lot less work than cutting off the old pan and welding on the new one.
Mike
-
Is it the diff pan or the casing you have cracked? If its the casting then it needs to be welded inside and out, as it will lose a lot of strength.
Paul
-
Definitely the pan that is cracked, near the bottom as your looking at the axle. Think it is more of a crease than crack. Going in for the M.O.T soon so see what else needs doing before starting any work. Priced the pans up and they start from £29 so not too bad. Never done one but it looks like I cut off the old pan up to the axle casing, get a good clean joint and weld the new pan on!
:oops: Then fit some under body protection!!
Thanks all.
-
Definitely the pan that is cracked, near the bottom as your looking at the axle. Think it is more of a crease than crack. Going in for the M.O.T soon so see what else needs doing before starting any work. Priced the pans up and they start from £29 so not too bad. Never done one but it looks like I cut off the old pan up to the axle casing, get a good clean joint and weld the new pan on!
:oops: Then fit some under body protection!!
Thanks all.
thats what you have to do but to do it properly you need to strip the diff out the axle as the grinding dusrt dont do the diff much good when you cut it off
-
Or you could buy a second hand axle case... I might know of one going spare :wink:
Ian
-
:shock: NITEMARE! Can't I cut the old pan off then flush the dust out with some miracle fluid? There must be something!! How much for the casing Ian if it comes to it? I was going to cut the old pan off and clean out any dust debris then flush the diff a few times with fresh oil after the new pan was fitted!
Mitch
-
:shock: NITEMARE! Can't I cut the old pan off then flush the dust out with some miracle fluid? There must be something!! How much for the casing Ian if it comes to it? I was going to cut the old pan off and clean out any dust debris then flush the diff a few times with fresh oil after the new pan was fitted!
Mitch
No take the diff out.You'll have enough trouble getting the stuff out of the caseing as it is.
-
Does this mean the front axle has to be removed??
-
no just take the diff out,have to strip both hubs to pull the shafts out,then remove the prop & pull the diff out,then your ready to start cutting the pan off
-
Thanks, not too bad then! Don't think it's cracked, more of a crease! Sailed through the M.O.T yesterday! :D
Going to check level on diff and if it's still not lost any fluid i'll patch the crease up with some super steel proxy till I can get round to it. See if I can cause any more damage! LOL.
-
: How much for the casing Ian if it comes to it?
I'm feeling lazy... so you could have the whole axle (inc diff etc etc) for £55ono if you collect. Saves me striping it!!
Ian
-
When I pulled the front DIff on the 101 I just removed the swivel seals and then pulled the swivel pins, slid the half shafts off the diff and proped the hubs up on axles stands with the half shafts and gizmology still intact.
Can this be done on the 90 / 110 , cant think of why not and saves faffing with the bearings and calipers too.
Lee D
-
When I pulled the front DIff on the 101 I just removed the swivel seals and then pulled the swivel pins, slid the half shafts off the diff and proped the hubs up on axles stands with the half shafts and gizmology still intact.
Can this be done on the 90 / 110 , cant think of why not and saves faffing with the bearings and calipers too.
Lee D
Yes you can, in fact it's a bit easier, as the entire swivel housing is bolted to the rest of the axle on a 110, unlike welded as on a 101 (at least the few I've seen) Also, the entire diff assembly is bolt in with it's bearings and pinion, so the whole lot comes out as one, unlike the Salisbury where you have to "gently" stretch the housing to release the blasted thing, and then the pinion stays in there!....
You'll need to be a little bit creative with the replacement gaskets (swivel to axle case) though, as unless you completely remove the hub/swivel assemblies with half shaft, you'll need to cut them to get past the half shafts. With care, it's OK with some sealant too.
Clean it all where the joins are, and all the surrounding places before you start to take it apart, it saves a lot of time later....
I'd agree, that you need to remove the entire diff assembly, cleanup the inside, stuff some clean rag into the axle tubes where they meet the diff, cut the old pan off, do the repair (keep a fire extinguisher near by, welding, and oil etc!) Then clean it all up again, remove the rag plug's, check and clean, re-asemble with new gaskets etc. Not forgetting to re-fill with new EP-90. Replace that after a few hundred miles, as no doubt, there will still be some dirt/grit hiding somewhere it will flush out during use....
Enjoy!...
Dave B.