Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Series Land Rovers => Topic started by: Andy the Landy on October 30, 2005, 08:08:36
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How do you attach yours :?: I'm not impressed at drilling through the weld in the bumper to fit the front holes :evil: . Do you use big washers or a spreader plate
Cheers
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They came i two sizes, you have the wrong ones so they go through the weld! Nightmare
I actually set mine gurther back and drilled the chassis. I would not do that now without sleeving the chassis.
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i used some washers on mine and i attatched the d rings to my bumper bolts then drilled throught the bumper at the front mine are rock solid.
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i used some washers on mine and i attatched the d rings to my bumper bolts then drilled throught the bumper at the front mine are rock solid.
ok ok mine are on a coiler.... :shock:
but i've attached them the same was as jimthelandyman, and they have been used for snatch recoverys and all sorts and seem fine.
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They came i two sizes, you have the wrong ones so they go through the weld! .
:shock: Bum - didnt realise that :evil: Drilled them anyway and have fitted big washers - still got doubts though with it being through the weld.
Should I bin the bumper and get a new one :?:
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This might seem like a silly suggestion, but why not just keep it like it is, and, well, if the bumper gets ripped off, just replace it afterwards. :lol:
After all, you can still get pulled out via another method if need be. :D
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This might seem like a silly suggestion, but why not just keep it like it is, and, well, if the bumper gets ripped off, just replace it afterwards. :lol:
After all, you can still get pulled out via another method if need be. :D
Unless the bumper comes off and takes your head with it, recovery by roping round the bumper is insane. If it bends it can pull in the chassis legs also.
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This might seem like a silly suggestion, but why not just keep it like it is, and, well, if the bumper gets ripped off, just replace it afterwards. :lol:
After all, you can still get pulled out via another method if need be. :D
Unless the bumper comes off and takes your head with it, recovery by roping round the bumper is insane. If it bends it can pull in the chassis legs also.
Will one of these bumpers fly quite a distance? :shock:
I'm probably not realising what part the guy's talking about by the sounds of it. I'm under the impression its infront of the dumbirons, where the bumper is strongest.
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If he leaves it as it is ie no recovery points, he would have to rope around the bumper as opposed to attaching two d rings properly which spreads the load nicely. Without you are forced to rely on the bumper strength rather than the chassis legs even if you rope where it attaches to the chassis the bumpers are only a few mils thick. I have a ball attached to my rear crossmember with a spreader plate on the back as the crossmember is also made of tinfoil. And a steering guard with recovery eyes on the front.
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Jim - I've got the 'D' rings attached. Just concerned that the holes at the front of the rings line up with the weld in the bumper and have had to drill through the weld to fit them. The rear holes are attached to the long chassis/bumper bolts.
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Whoops :oops:
Me needs to read more carefully :lol:
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Jim - I've got the 'D' rings attached. Just concerned that the holes at the front of the rings line up with the weld in the bumper and have had to drill through the weld to fit them. The rear holes are attached to the long chassis/bumper bolts.
You should be ok. Remember a decent weld is as strong if not stronger than the surrounding metal.
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Will one of these bumpers fly quite a distance? :shock:
I'm probably not realising what part the guy's talking about by the sounds of it. I'm under the impression its infront of the dumbirons, where the bumper is strongest.
Rich, ive seen a defender front bumper travel 30ft through the air at head height (still attached to cable) and straight through the back window of a rangie...not a pretty sight.... :shock:
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the D ring connectors are bolted to the chassis ontop of the front dumb irons, and incidently atop the bumper, but the rear two bolts do indeed go through the chassis, having passed through the bumper.
These need to be high tensile steel and will replace whatever bolts you currently have there (which almost certainly won't be) It is generally advised to fit some form of load spreading plate to the front bolts (along the bumper) and anywhere else you can fit one.
Note that this is only a good idea on the steel series bumpers, do not try it on the light weight ali replacements...
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Oh, erm... is the galvinised bumper from Paddocks a proper steel one or is it too weak for recovery points?
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I had a pair on my 90CSW-V8.
They were mounted using the bumper bolts, then a shaped spreader plate inside the bumper.
Admittedly the bumper won't take a large load, but every little bit helps
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Cheers for replies chaps :D
Ta for your input datalas regarding high tensile bolts - I'll change them at work tomorrow and make some spreader plates :wink:
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Oh, erm... is the galvinised bumper from Paddocks a proper steel one or is it too weak for recovery points?
if its galvy it will be steel as aluminuim melts when u put it in the hot zinc :lol:
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Oh, erm... is the galvinised bumper from Paddocks a proper steel one or is it too weak for recovery points?
if its galvy it will be steel as aluminuim melts when u put it in the hot zinc :lol:
that, and there's no point in galvanising it either....
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This might seem like a silly suggestion, but why not just keep it like it is, and, well, if the bumper gets ripped off, just replace it afterwards. :lol:
i take it you have never seen a recovery point snap and come flying towards you at a stupid speed?
i have my recovery pints drilled through the chassis on the front and then a 8mm spreader plate, not only does it act as the spreader plate but also as a bumber strengther, great,
now have them on my custom made rear bum,ber and have done the same,
see pic below.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/Tractorboy16/landyfinalpics010.jpg)
me xxxx
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/Tractorboy16/resized.jpg)
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Just a quick point, remember that not all recoveries will be done with a straight pull, think about what the strain qualities would be with at least a 45 degree pull for example
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I know that at my clubg you have to have recovery points to even go on the black and yellow courses and enter any of our trials and so forth, And not the ones that it came with.
About what hobbit said, its a good point, I haven't known a recovery to be dead straight, not when u put it some of the place they get to its just inpossible to do that sort of recovery.
Me x
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I have the military front bumper fitted to my s3. Do I need to change to a craddocks 30 quid bumper to fit them? Can I get an s3 steering guard with buit in recovery points?
Cheers,
Mike
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I do like those rings you've got on the back there James. unofortunately my rear crossmember currently looks like this :) :)
(http://www.willmottw.fsnet.co.uk/gallery/15.7.05/thumbnails/DSC01288_JPG_jpg_jpg.jpg)(http://www.willmottw.fsnet.co.uk/gallery/15.7.05/thumbnails/DSC01177_JPG_jpg_jpg.jpg)
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I do like those rings you've got on the back there James. unofortunately my rear crossmember currently looks like this :) :)
(http://www.willmottw.fsnet.co.uk/gallery/15.7.05/thumbnails/DSC01288_JPG_jpg_jpg.jpg)(http://www.willmottw.fsnet.co.uk/gallery/15.7.05/thumbnails/DSC01177_JPG_jpg_jpg.jpg)
Erm....i wouldnt suggest attaching rings to that crossmember :roll:
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I wouldn't even sneeze near them, what happens when he shuts the door does someone have to go round sweeping up :shock:
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we pulled the towbar through it already and the other day at tixover quarry one of the spring hangers went through the chassis. I''ve put a new rear 1/4 chassis on my list for Father Christmas :)