Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Series Land Rovers => Topic started by: The Landy Guy on August 09, 2007, 00:22:07
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Just recently ripped all the old dead wires from my landy, and want to completely re-wire it!
doing it myself of course but its the 1st time! (cant be that hard)
just after some tips!
and if i can contact someone if i need to work something out!!
so yeah if you got any tips or anything i need all the help i can get!!!
Cheers
Paul
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Wittsend has provided a circuit diagram in colour which has proved very useful to me. I'm sure someone can remember where abouts it's kept on here..................unfortunately not me! :?
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cheers!
that would help, i only have the black and white one and i still aint sure i fully understand it!!
God help me!( or god help my landy)!!
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I coloured over a diagram for a lightweight, not quite the same as yours though
which one is your 2a, is it the s3 full plastic dash or the centre consol older type?
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i rewired mine from scratch,
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/elaeanor_g1/landrover/DSC00203.jpg)
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I lied, Wittsend provided the diagram on the Series 2 Club site, not MudClub :roll: . It's under the technical info section and has proved one of the most useful pieces of paper ever to have come off my printer!
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Whilst you're doing it, up rate the wiring to the headlights and put relays in, this reduces the power loss at the headlights. Also series motors aren't overly endowed with fuses, bung another fuse box in and fuse the circuits like the lights that currently aren't.
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu are a good place to buy connectors, wire etc.
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If you e-mail vehicle wiring products asking for a catalogue, they will send you one (providing you give an address).
YES, a real life paper catalogue!
Some links I 'borrowed' from www.series2club.co.uk/ (then Technical)
Neg Earth IIA wiring diagram (http://www.nhua.co.uk/Landrover/docs/2A_1969_petrol_neg.pdf)
Upgrading your lighting circuit (http://www.mrbean.net.au/~rover/headlamps.htm)
If you need the address for the Series 2 club forum, it's here:
http://www.s2cforum.com/forum/index.php
But be warned, I'm on every night and I don't get to read everything!
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The Neg earth diagram is the one for your landy too.
Consider making your life easier with an alternator conversion, as this is easier to wire than having to get the dynamo and regulator box sorted.
Do come over to the S2C forum it is a huge technical resource, you'll have all your questions answerd. and like rob i'm on there every day, (but i do read everything :roll: )
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I coloured over a diagram for a lightweight, not quite the same as yours though
which one is your 2a, is it the s3 full plastic dash or the centre consol older type?
centre
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The Neg earth diagram is the one for your landy too.
Consider making your life easier with an alternator conversion, as this is easier to wire than having to get the dynamo and regulator box sorted.
Do come over to the S2C forum it is a huge technical resource, you'll have all your questions answerd. and like rob i'm on there every day, (but i do read everything :roll: )
i already done the alternator change!
so if i have an alternater do i still need to regulator box?
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If you e-mail vehicle wiring products asking for a catalogue, they will send you one (providing you give an address).
YES, a real life paper catalogue!
miles ahead of you!!! :P
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so if i have an alternater do i still need to regulator box?
Not unless it's a REALLY old alternator. Most alternators have the regulator built in.
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ah right ok
how do i know if its an old or newish one?
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dunno on age...
If it's a Lucas and it's got a bit on the back that looks like it comes off like this (on the bottom of the pic on the right):
(http://www.motoridiesel.it/perkins_alternators_7.jpg)
This bit's the regulator:
(http://thumbs.ebaystatic.com/pict/120089383611_1.jpg)
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i rewired mine from scratch,
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/elaeanor_g1/landrover/DSC00203.jpg)
Where did you get the bus bars from? They look good.
When I was considering doing the Series 1 I spoke to Autosparks who do replacement looms. I was struck by the fact that their prices were probably cheaper than doing it from scratch myself, plus they were happy to include extras or modifications.
http://www.autosparks.co.uk/
H
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i got them from www.lsuk.co.uk
i ordered them from the DURITE catalogue, just the job 8)
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dunno on age...
If it's a Lucas and it's got a bit on the back that looks like it comes off like this (on the bottom of the pic on the right):
(http://www.motoridiesel.it/perkins_alternators_7.jpg)
This bit's the regulator:
(http://thumbs.ebaystatic.com/pict/120089383611_1.jpg)
i believe its a lucus and it has a small plug that comes off the back, that mean anything?
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It probably looks a bit like that one above then from the back of it. The Lucar connector is common amongst the same alternators, essentially a block with three spades in it.
Assuming anything is generally not good, in this case though I would assume you have no regulator as the alternator has one...
Did you do the alternator conversion yourself or was it already done?
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already done and just to let you know the landy had no wiring in at all so i don't know if it hand an regualtor before hand
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so on the wiring dia , i remove the dynimo and the altenator, but what do i wire to the missing altenator?
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errr not sure what you mean there mate :?
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sorry no it doesnt make much sense
dosen't matter for the time being
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errrm, theres usally only one alternator on an engine. so really you only need one.
if you need a hand wiring it back up give me a shout.
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the problem i have is that on the wiring diagram its say dynamo and regulator box, but i have been told that if i have an altenator conversion i don't need to regulator box,
so on the wiring diagram i take the regulator box out, where do i wire things to??
if you understand that?
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I'm sort of lucky in that this has been done on mine, though unlike your 2a, mine has Series 3 wiring (sort of, goes with the dash), so someone's done it already...
Looking at the diagram (http://www.nhua.co.uk/Landrover/docs/2A_1969_petrol_neg.pdf) I posted before (thanks be to the Series 2 Club), if you zoom in at the top right there's some instructions:
Remove all wires from the voltage regulator
Connect cables A1 & A together, best done at the solenoid
Connect main alternator output to the solenoid
Connect wire from warning lamp to w on the alternator
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how far north of warickshire do you live bob?
i owe you a few pints!!
that wiring diagram is alot easier to follow than the one in the haynes manual!!!
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is it best with the general wiring to colour code it? or can i just use black and red on it all?
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I tend to use what ever is to hand, so long as it's rated correctly for the application. It is of course best to use the correct colours, later on down the line you'll now what's what without following the cables. In reality, you'll probably use what you've got if you intend on keeping it - who's gonna know the difference (apart from us readers) :lol:
I live by J3 of the M6... (removed the rest)
Drop by anytime... I'll be at Langley Farm 7th - 9th September if you're about, long way for you though, must be, it's 110 ish miles for me. :)
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yeah well if i am round that way
yeah i live bit further north from you, wolvohampton-telford way
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My sons trying to sort out the wiring on the lightweight one of the things he's trying to sort is the temp gauge, he needs to know what the voltage stabiliser unit is and where it's located can anyone help.
Wiring dia would be useful too :D
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On my SIIa it's screwed on the bulkhead behind the instrument panel. A little rectangular box about 5cmx1.5cmx1cm as far as I can remember. It's job is to stabilise the voltage to the dials to stop them reading incorrectly. May be in the same place on a lightweight although I have no experience of them myself.
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on my series 3 the voltage stabiliser is attached to the back of the instrument cluster, (a little box on the back of the dial unit)
If you're not using the standard coloured wires, print off a wiring diagram and amend it to show the colours you have used instead. It makes life easier down the line.
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Thanks spacemud and Chris :D
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Take your time and dont scrimp on things like connectors. Use fully insulated spaces where possible and if you need to make multiple connections think about something like the Amp Champ IP65 connectors Simtec do. Its worth taking the time and spending the pennies to make it last.
Uninsulated spades corrode and fall apart pretty fast. Lots of fuses and break the circuits up as best you are able, makes life simpler, means each item has the right fuse and when one goes you dont loose half the cars electrics. Plastic loom material is available from most places and makes for quick, simple, tidy (and waterproof if done right) looms. A smear of non conductive silicone grease will extend the life of connectors and provide a better seal, avoid putting connectors where they will be repeatedly soaked and exposed to road spray too.
Support the harness and dont allow it to flex, the wires will fail internally if a harness gets flexed (and it took me months to work out why I only had one foglight).
There seems to be a trend in LR cars to run high current items direct off the switches, this is bad for lots of reasons so dont be afraid to put relay in where needed as already mentioned. A 20A rathed foglight switch limits you to just that, but a 20A foglight switch wired to a collection of relays means you can add lights to your hears content.
Where you can replace old parts, retain as little as possible. Switches and relays degrade, even light bulbs degrade before they actually fail. I still remeber doing all the dash lamps on the Audi and the difference new bulbs made. Switches can actually fail low resistance meaning they still apear to be ok but you get the symptons of the controlled item being failed. If you have to keep switches, strip them as far as possible, lube then and dont be afraid to reject them. Pitted, burnt contacts will cause you issues, though a relay with a cap and resistor across the coil can save a 'jittery or noisy switch.
There will be some places you'll need to terminate multiple earths, make sure there isa good connection at these points, if you dont trust it, run an earth wire to a point you do trust. Earth bonding all panels can make a difference in terms of earthing and electrical noise and replace the engine earth strap while you are at it unless its been done. If you have to take the paint back for an earth remeber this is now a corrosion risk and a loose earth may also cause rapid electrolytic corrosion.
It may also be a good time to think about isolation or a master fuse at this point. Fit one of the commonly available high current terminals and connect any hig capacity loads to it, starter, relay supplies for lighting, winch etc. The via the isolation switch wire a second busbar for everything else. No need to isolate items on relays, isolating the relay supplies takes car of them :)
Busbars, best way I have found it to buy copper bar and nylon spacers, nuts and bolts and brew your own. On a veichle you may need more insulation and a lot of ICE suppliers will have seriously high current kit for pennies that will suffice, again though, watch for water ingress.
There, My 10 penneth worth :)
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I still suffer with bad connections on mine too, fuel and temp gauge went wonky intermittently, tried all sorts but it turned out to be bad spade connections on the back of the fuse block feeding the gauges
Good fun arn't they :wink: :lol:
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I still suffer with bad connections on mine too, fuel and temp gauge went wonky intermittently, tried all sorts but it turned out to be bad spade connections on the back of the fuse block feeding the gauges
Good fun arn't they :wink: :lol:
They are a Lucas creation, go figure :)
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is it best with the general wiring to colour code it? or can i just use black and red on it all?
If you use the same colour all the way through you will be cursing yourself in a few years time when you have to take the dash off to fix something!
I did my landy in mainly the same colour and used tape labels on the end. 5 years later the writing has faded off the labels and it took me forever to fix a dodgy connection and add some stuff in.
I had loads of trouble with the 4 way plug in bullet connectors (i used them on the lights) corroding and falling apart after only a couple of years. I use proper multiway spade connectors now (the same as marshalls did when they converted the 101 ambis as it happens!)
On the ones i have done since i have used different colours. Not necessarily the correct colours but different ones. Ive also drawn a diagram as i wired it up.
I reckon the uninsulated 'proper' double crimp terminals are better than the cheap preinsulated ones (like halfords sell). They stay on better. Buy a load of them, the proper crimp tool for them and some plastic covers from VWP and it makes a better job of it.
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so you reckon colour code it all, will make it easier in the future?
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so you reckon colour code it all, will make it easier in the future?
Hell yes :)
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so you reckon colour code it all, will make it easier in the future?
Hell yes :)
put it this way, the guy before me has made everything purple. I now need to rewire EVERYTHING. it really, really sucks.
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All my car alarm installs use black wires, same colour same guage.
Loose the connection diagrams for what you've wired in where and life gets interesting very fast. So if thats done to confuse the scrotes imagine how fun your life will be when you have hundreds of wires to deal with :)
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so you reckon colour code it all, will make it easier in the future?
Hell yes :)
put it this way, the guy before me has made everything purple. I now need to rewire EVERYTHING. it really, really sucks.
have to did a bit deaper into my wallet then!! :lol:
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i bought one for that vehicle, but m also making a few parts for my other vehicle myself, as it's not cheap