Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Defender => Topic started by: Def90 on April 02, 2010, 08:53:36
-
Just got the 110 through the MOT. Recieved an advisory that the near side wheel bearing was showing signs of wear - Not being familiar with replacing a whhel bear, is there a link that anyone knows of, for the process (with Pictures) to replace a wheel bearing (or tighten it)?
Defender is a TD5, registered in 2000
Cheers
-
This link may be of help, :tappity:
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=10286&st=0&p=107902&hl=wheel&fromsearch=1&#entry107902
-
.... and do it fairly swiftish - mine welded itself to the stub axle with no noise/warning at all. Angle grinder job..... ! A
-
Thanks Guys,
Will have to get the bits and have a crack at it - The little I have tried to research this, I'm surprised that the various LR part suppliers don't sell "kits" to do the wheel/Hub bearing, it seem you have to select the individual components to do the job.
Cheers
-
A "decent" supplier should know what to sell you if tell um what ya up to, I have changes all mine on our TD5 90 for the earlier type set up, That way i can strip and/adjust um a lot easier, Bit of a mucky job but should be pain free 8-[ :lol:
-
Tell me more?.
Is there a debate as to which bearing setup is best? - I would have assumed with the development of the vehicles, the bearing configuration on the later vehicles would be an improvement over older trucks. Whilst I wouldn't wish to mix & match setup's, if the older style bearing configuration is better than the TD5 setup, when I do the job, I could strip and do both sides - I'd already considered replacing the brake disc's whilst I have it stripped?
-
hi mate
if you decide to keep the bearing set up as original DONT BUY THE BEARINGS FROM PADDOCKS the one they supplied for my 52 plate 110 would have been ok in a earlier defender but too thick to accommodate even the thickest spacer available from L.R, get some timken ones from your local independent!!!
hope this helps kevin
-
Thanks Kevin, I'd just been pricing this up at Paddock
-
PADDOCKS also sell timkin ones - not had a problem. Usually got a G or genuine or original keyword in description.
-
Thanks Guys,
Will have to get the bits and have a crack at it - The little I have tried to research this, I'm surprised that the various LR part suppliers don't sell "kits" to do the wheel/Hub bearing, it seem you have to select the individual components to do the job.
Cheers
Try Island 4x4 they do a kit for the Discovery 1 - I just bought two - so may have a kit for the 110 as well. In fact, I think it's gonna be the same kit as the hubs, etc., are the same. If you're going to replace the grease seal between the inner bearing and the hub then use the Range Rover one (STC3435) rather than the Defender one. They're the same price but the RR one has better sealing to prevent ingress of water/[!Expletive Deleted!].
HTH :-)
-
Thanks Steve - Been doing a bit more digging and it seems there are kits avialable from Bearmach.
Couple of questions - On the TD5, it would seem the bearing setup was changed from the previous 300tdi days
For the TD5, the use of a shim/spacer is mentioned in the manuals - My questions are:
- Do I need to replace the spacer/shim, or can the existing one be re-used.
- The articles I have read discuss the shim/spacer been used to set the "end Float" for the half shaft - Do I just torque up the correct setting and allow the
shim/spacer to do it's stuff or do I need to set the end float with a dial gauge or the old quarter turn backward?
- How do I use a Dial Gauge?
Any help appreciated
Cheers
-
Ah, sorry, didn't pick up on the fact yours is a TD5.
Can't answer your last questions, I'm afraid :(
-
I think the shims are available in various thicknesses to set the bearing preload/end float. If so, you will need to check what it is at the moment with the existing shim, measure the shim and that will define what new size you will need.
-
hi mate
if i remember right there are 6 or 7 spacers starting from 14.9 mm up-to 15.5mm ish some one will correct me no doubt,i could only find them at my local main dealer at about a fiver each and you are right you should use a dial gauge to set the end float but every one i asked i.e independents and main dealer staff all insisted they had never had any problems reusing the original spacer with new bearings just fit the bearings Assembly the hub and tighten the nut then check for free play,if the hub can be rocked more than just the slightest amount the spacer is to big and if theres no free play and the hub feels tight to rotate the spacer is too small which would cause the bearings to over heat and possible seizure all this is a bit difficult to put into words,but if you've done wheel bearing before it should be fairly clear i hope.
my problem was due to the first set of replacement bearings being too big and tightening the nut pushed the bearings tightly into the outer races before the spacer came into contact with the inner races.
regarding the shim behind the circlip i just reused the original one
hope this helps kevin
-
Why dont you nip it up n take any play out.Or even remove it regrease it and see what happens??
-
Thanks All,
When I stripped the assembly I found the hub nut had broken and was loose. I have taken the assembly apart, checked the condition of the bearings and the outer casing before re-greasing and re-assembly with a new hub nut. All seemed straight forward enough. I plan to do a few miles this evening to check that all is ok, before going out to play at the weekend.
Depending how the weekend goes, I may strip down completely and replace the bearing sets
Thanks for all your advise