Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Defender => Topic started by: 07DefenderSeb on January 30, 2007, 10:42:54
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What is the best anti-theft device for the Defender? I really hate the idea of putting on a crook lock every time i leave the truck.
I've spotted battery disconnector keys, but that would be a hassle to use every morning, having to lift the bonnet in order to drive.
Any red hot tips?
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To be honest mechanical are the best forms of prevention of driveaway theft ie discloc, pedal locks etc. A pain but if it stops it bein nicked. doesnt top landy being pushed into a curtainsider or winched onto a flatbed though :(
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Battery isolator...... fit the key/isolator switch at the front of passenger seat, between passenger ankles/shins..... (No need to lift the bonnet).
Best thing is probably going to be a tracking device.... co's if someone wants to take your vehicle they will.... at least with a tracker you and the police will know where it is.
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Have you seen the mech lock - it disables the clutch from working. Pretty bl**dy pricey, but clever and it's not much compared to the value of the vehicle. I think it's Mud Stuff that sell them.
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I've noticed a lot of insurance companies are looking for trackers fitted that kinda thing, seen some on the standard questions type pages. The right one although expensive could bring the insurance down as well i think.
But the unfortunate thing is many cars are stolen to order to they are out the country or stripped within hours of being taken. The vehicle will have been watched for weeks to find out the best oppotunity to take it and no matter what device is fitted they will have it away. Its very sad really but part of the world we live in today.
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I've noticed a lot of insurance companies are looking for trackers fitted that kinda thing, seen some on the standard questions type pages. The right one although expensive could bring the insurance down as well i think.
But the unfortunate thing is many cars are stolen to order to they are out the country or stripped within hours of being taken. The vehicle will have been watched for weeks to find out the best oppotunity to take it and no matter what device is fitted they will have it away. Its very sad really but part of the world we live in today.
i wouldnt be happy with a tracker unless I can see it myself, not just the tracking company...... which for that reason, i would more than likely come up with my own tracking system. if it moves a meter, my computer goes apeshit, mobile phone goes apeshit, dogs go apeshit out the door and take the apeshit thats trying to steal the landy down.
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don't waste your money on a tracker in a Defender. They are easy to find and disable.
The best passive guard is a Meck Lock, http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/Meck_Lock.html
I personally on a new Defender I would go for the 4 port version and plumb into clutch and brakes.
Cheers
Steve
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More and more vehicles are being stolen by lifting it directly onto the back of a transporter..... What you need is something that notifies you the moment the vehicle starts moving.......
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More and more vehicles are being stolen by lifting it directly onto the back of a transporter..... What you need is something that notifies you the moment the vehicle starts moving.......
A bl***y big dog :wink:
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More and more vehicles are being stolen by lifting it directly onto the back of a transporter..... What you need is something that notifies you the moment the vehicle starts moving.......
hence my previous post :)
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See these threads
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=9436&hl=
http://forums.mud-club.com/viewtopic.php?t=32214&highlight=
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Good advice eveyone, thanks. I like the idea of the battery isolator switch inside the cab.
Mech lock is quite pricey but perhaps well worth the money - it might lower the insurance as well.
Unless it's bolted to the floor, nothing much is going to stop some pikeys, a flat bed and a crane :shock: :cry:
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how much arebattery isolator switches?
R
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how much arebattery isolator switches?
R
Don't get a bettery isolator switch.
Get an FIA battery Master Switch. That woks a lot better than the simple isolator switch. About 35 quid including the terminals you'll need.
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Joe Edwards suggested to me a hidden switch in the fuel injection wires. Hide in the cab somewhere. Not done it yet but seemed like a cheap option?
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What you need is something that notifies you the moment the vehicle starts moving.......
The amount of work I've had to do lately, if it moved I'd keel over in shock! [-o<
Clutch Claw, Immobilisers, nuff said.
As has been said, if they really want it, they'll get it.
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what about those land rover hand brake locks. looks like a normal land rover hand brake but it has a lock in it that u just use a key to unlock it! i saw them in LRO a few years back now, i'll see if i can find them on the WWW.
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More and more vehicles are being stolen by lifting it directly onto the back of a transporter..... What you need is something that notifies you the moment the vehicle starts moving.......
Looked into detecting just that via strain gauges on the suspension mounts/arms, way too fragile for a 4x4 and not cheap.
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More and more vehicles are being stolen by lifting it directly onto the back of a transporter.....
What ballshit! I think you'll find that's an extremely small percentage of car thefts. Does happen but nowhere near the amount you claim.
Steve
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Joe Edwards suggested to me a hidden switch in the fuel injection wires. Hide in the cab somewhere. Not done it yet but seemed like a cheap option?
Completely pointless.... under the bonnet, a length of wire and problem overcome!! Two lengths of wire and you'll have the engine running.
I actually had my post deleated on Land Rover Net (one of the above links) for stating that!!! :shock:
Also normal battery isolators aren't bad... esp. the heavy duty metal ones (which I sell :wink: ). All the FIA does is protect the alternator, but has a plastic key which is pretty daft as some of them aren't that strong, and the keys are avaliable anywhere.
Depends if you want a kill switch, or a isolator switch.
Ian
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If the vehicle is used regularly, then this won't be of much help, but a very hefty chain and padlock around the chassis / winch bumper / engine block (in some cases) and padlocked to another vehicle or a iron loop bolted into the driveway or round another vehicle is a very good deterrent.
My Series III used to be chained to a large tree when it was left on its own for any length of time.
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And thinking about it....
Some of the other methods of security are a bit pointless:
A immobilser on a 200 or 300Tdi.
Even LR's own can be disabled in about 2 mins.
(Td5's aren't impossible either!!)
A switch in the wire to the fuel solenoid... again pretty pointless.
Anyone who understands diesels in the slightist would know how to get around it (same as an imobiliser)
Handbrake lock. Not that visible, and a quick cut of the handbrake cable and problem solved.
Pedal lock that goes over the clutch and brake pedal.
Simple, just drive clutchless and use the handbrake as a brake.
Battery Isolator switch.
Removes any 12v supply under the bonnet, but again there are ways around it... but means a thief has to come a bit prepared!! (still one of the better options though!!)
The lock that goes on the clutch pipe only....
Ok as long as the clutch is locked in the down position. But again, cut the clutch line and drive clutchless. Same with the one on the brakes.
Still a good choice though!!
In all honesty there are ways around most devices... and theifs know that!!!
Though it does depend on the standard of the theif... most methods will stop the opportunist... but not the 'profesional' theif.
Good visible deterents are a good option... but even those aren't impossible to get off.
All you can do is make your car 'harder' to pinch, but not impossible!!! :shock:
But if your LR is difficult to pinch, it hopefully means they'll leave yours and find an easy one to steal instead.
Ian
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And thinking about it....
Some of the other methods of security are a bit pointless:
A immobilser on a 200 or 300Tdi.
Even LR's own can be disabled in about 2 mins.
(Td5's aren't impossible either!!)
A switch in the wire to the fuel solenoid... again pretty pointless.
Anyone who understands diesels in the slightist would know how to get around it (same as an imobiliser)
Handbrake lock. Not that visible, and a quick cut of the handbrake cable and problem solved.
Pedal lock that goes over the clutch and brake pedal.
Simple, just drive clutchless and use the handbrake as a brake.
Battery Isolator switch.
Removes any 12v supply under the bonnet, but again there are ways around it... but means a thief has to come a bit prepared!! (still one of the better options though!!)
The lock that goes on the clutch pipe only....
Ok as long as the clutch is locked in the down position. But again, cut the clutch line and drive clutchless. Same with the one on the brakes.
Still a good choice though!!
In all honesty there are ways around most devices... and theifs know that!!!
Though it does depend on the standard of the theif... most methods will stop the opportunist... but not the 'profesional' theif.
Good visible deterents are a good option... but even those aren't impossible to get off.
All you can do is make your car 'harder' to pinch, but not impossible!!! :shock:
But if your LR is difficult to pinch, it hopefully means they'll leave yours and find an easy one to steal instead.
Ian
............or give some your spare ignition key... :lol:
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evening ada wasnt far from your house the other night! was gonna pop over but it was getting a bit late