Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Range Rover => Topic started by: barriesheene on January 31, 2008, 11:04:30
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Hi guy's. I know that there is alot on here about body lift's, but everything is a bit jumbled up :? I'm starting mine this weekend,probably running into next weekend looking at the weather forecast. What I want to do is do a step by step guide with photo's. Tool's needed, that sort of thing. What I dont want to do is to much going back overstuff that i've missed cos it's going to take long enough to do with the photo taking and laying tools out and parts etc. This is what I've got planned so far,(not including tools and parts etc)
1) remove transfer lever
2) jack up vehicle on axle stands
3) loosen all body mounts
4) remove tie bars
5) undo steering bracket
6) Do something with brake lines ?
7) undo top radiator mount's
8 fit spacers etc
9) put it all back together
I will be changing the bushes etc but at a later date. I will then either add it into this write-up or do one on it's own.
Any idea's ? anything I need to change or add ?
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People knock air suspension:
On mine you press the button on the dash - Job done.
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1.i didn't need to touch transfer lever
2.didn't jack it up .left it on the ground :D
3 undid all body mounts on one side only 'done mine one side at a time
4 yep
5 yep
6 brake lines need replacing really,but have known people not to :shock:
7 yep .remove fan cowling too ,modify to refit
8 undo filler pipe to tank and re fit afterwards
9 now fit spacers
10 put all back together
is it manual if so keep eye on clutch slave cylinder pipe ,gets a bit stretched :shock:
keep eye on oil cooler pipes power steering pipes that attach form inner wings to front x member
keep all bolts well sprayed in wd40 for couple of days .make job a lot easier
most import tho HAVE FUN :lol: :lol:
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Thank's robbie :D See this is what i was looking for :clap: I had forgotten about the filler neck :doh: I have a brake pipe kit and pipe here so I'll modify if need be, as I go. I'll add it to the write-up. It might come in usefull for somebody. Off now to dose everything in wd40 [-o<
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Don't forget to have a blow torch handy (cheap gas one from B&Q), a wire brush to hand will also be good.
You really need to put spacers under the boot floor (I haven't yet but I will do at some stage) x4. Be prepared to find rust in all manner of places (I had to make to new front floor sections!)
And remember to undo the seat belt mounting points x4 (heat gun helps here quite alot)
I did mine about 3 weeks ago, and boy was it alot of aggro, but well worth it :dance:
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Thank's robbie :D See this is what i was looking for :clap: I had forgotten about the filler neck :doh: I have a brake pipe kit and pipe here so I'll modify if need be, as I go. I'll add it to the write-up. It might come in usefull for somebody. Off now to dose everything in wd40 [-o<
May have misread but it is the flexi hoses that need extending or the fixing to the inner wing lowering ;)
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May have misread but it is the flexi hoses that need extending or the fixing to the inner wing lowering ;)
The flexi hoses will need to be extended as the fixing between them and the copper pipes is in the wheelarch so will go up the height of the body lift,but if you have access to a brake pipe kit you could make longer copper pipes and move the fixing to the chassis which is what I plan on doing when I lift mine :lol:
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If you have the chassis on axle stands rather than on the wheels it will stop it boucing up and down as you try to free the body. Just a thought.
BTW, why move the steering bracket :? you only need loosen the steering shaft so it can slide a little.
You'll need to watch the earth straps, take the bumper corners off, watch the fuel and brake lines if they ae fastened to the floor under the driver's seat, watch the oil cooler pipes as they go under the front of the chassis but mount on the body, and any parts of the wiring loom that go from the body to the chassis (gearbox, fuel tank, air suspension etc).
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Ok, so far I've;-
slackened steering shaft, undone all body mounts, removed front bumber, removed rear corner bumpers, removed transfer lever knob, found a hole in the passenger footwell :roll: and found lots and lots of rust :evil: but everything is on stop now because i was hoping to reuse the bushes on the mount's but they are all shagged :doh: Any idea where i can get the new bushes from and an approx price. It's not the bushes as such it's the metal plates on top of the bush have just rotted away.
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Hello matey, try your local engineering shop, they should be able to make you up some very cheap washers without much aggro.
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May have misread but it is the flexi hoses that need extending or the fixing to the inner wing lowering ;)
The flexi hoses will need to be extended as the fixing between them and the copper pipes is in the wheelarch so will go up the height of the body lift,but if you have access to a brake pipe kit you could make longer copper pipes and move the fixing to the chassis which is what I plan on doing when I lift mine :lol:
Thats a better way of putting it :oops: I drilled the spot welds and lowered them using rivets ........ then bought a 4" extended set when ££££'s permitted ;)
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Ok, so far I've;-
slackened steering shaft, undone all body mounts, removed front bumber, removed rear corner bumpers, removed transfer lever knob, found a hole in the passenger footwell :roll: and found lots and lots of rust :evil: but everything is on stop now because i was hoping to reuse the bushes on the mount's but they are all shagged :doh: Any idea where i can get the new bushes from and an approx price. It's not the bushes as such it's the metal plates on top of the bush have just rotted away.
One of the washers has a tube on it, the so-called top hat washer. Cheap enough from Paddocks as are the bushes, they were a stock item provided they have enough.
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I got some from Bearmach and they are only a few quid each.
wizard
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RRB, spoke to Paddock's while ordering seal kit for the steering box and the guy didnt have a clue what i was on about regarding body mount bushes or washers :roll: Bearmach do them tho for pence. About 30p each i think but don't deliver to public only garage's :evil: Gonna ask my local garage to order them for me. he's a very nice chap so i'm sure he wont mind [-o< Oh and as far as my list is going at number 4 I need to add;-
4) Replace all parts and pretend you didnt notice the rust
and at number 10 )
10 ) Remove vehicle from drive , ( if still able to do so ), and clear up rust and rotten metal from drive ! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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At least it'll be faster with all the rust removed ;)
Paddocks, yes I often get the impression that the tea-boy has answered the 'phone, I always seem to get the trainee or something and end up having to explain it to them.
You could try Rimmers, by far the most expensive but the guys on the 'phone usually know what they are talking about and if they say it'sin the post, it's in the post. Worth ringing them and asking for a brochure.
BTW, if you know the part numbers before youring Paddocks it makes life easier ;) otherwise go into the shop there, the guys in stores are the total opposite, a mine of useful information.
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I can collect stuff from Bearmach if you need me to.
only down the road.
wizard :twisted:
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Thanks wizard :D I dont know why they cant just courer stuff to an address as long as its payed for over the phone :evil: They must be losing a ton of money to paddocks :doh:
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RRB, you were right to mention the wiring etc :shock: It all looks nice and simple untill you start raising the body then it all becomes apparent. I need to lengthen earth strap and a cable from the altenator to the starter motor ?????? For some reason it attatches to the bulk head for no apparent reason and then on to the starter motor ?????? Gonna just get the 4" plus braided brake lines from paddocks. dont know what to do about the seat belt mounting points yet :-k Any idea's ????
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. I need to lengthen earth strap and a cable from the altenator to the starter motor ?????? For some reason it attatches to the bulk head for no apparent reason and then on to the starter motor
Thats the main power feed into the cabin if i remember.
Have been watching with interest and think I might wait till the tax runs out on mine so I dont pay for the Rangie to sit on the drive :roll:
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Spot on Steve, that bolt is insulated from the body and comes through left and above the clutch pedal, all the heavy electrics inside the car run from it.
It also means that only a short piece of wire is exposed to exhaust temperature, it goes hard and needs replacing every few years.
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The seat belt extensions (tie rods) can be bought from wizard on here or via ebay
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My tax has run out and the power steering box gone so had nothing to lose to try the lift and see what happened :evil: I already have the spacers,nyloc nuts and bolts so thought what the hell :roll: Now i'm thinking oh hell :twisted: :twisted:
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I just thought i'd prove that I am trying to get on with it ! :lol: :lol: :lol:
(http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc300/hulgrin/DSCF2569.jpg)
(http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc300/hulgrin/DSCF2572.jpg)
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They are actually better than mine, I had to replace 8 out of 10 body mounts, replace both front foot wells and rebuild the front radiatot supports,
Oh then I discovered my chassis was twisted and that the rear right chassis end had snapped at the shock mount and the trailing arm bracket had snapped on one side at the axel. Oh and both sills had collapsed and the sedimeter fell off :clap:
Kepp your chin up chap and remember, if you get something like 60x60 box section and cut it into 'L' peices then weld sides on you have a really strong bracket, I then used a hole saw bit in the drill and made a new hole in it.
Only thing I can say is once you get used to it you'll want to go higher! I do, just make sure all your bump stops are in good condition as you will get more lean on corners or off road and you really want the stops to work!
Andi
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I have just completed my 40mm bodylift, with thanks to the chaps on here with great advise, 40mm spacers from ebay and the rest of the kit from Wizard. His kit also gives you the guide to exactly what to do. All I would add to that already added in this string is get a good small angle grinder and a nut splitter to remove those rusted up bolts. When you've done the lift you will need to think about raising the bumpers by the same amount so that the bumper-corners fit; either that or lower the brackets on the wings/quarters. I have made a bracket for the rear bumper and will attempt to weld up a bracket for the front next week.
Good luck.
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Cant believe you are going for it Barry !!!
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Found this .......also lists part numbers for rubbers, top hats and washers
http://rangie.com/articles_model.php?id=1758&modelId=1
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chears bobtail nice link :clap:
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As it stopped bloody raining at last [-o< [-o< [-o< :clap: :clap: I started my lift today :roll: :roll: :roll:
All the body mount bolts came undone rather easily (quite worrying that bit)
Not a single rusted bolt...... :-k
I had to remove the centre exhaust box as i did not have a 11/16 long reach socket to get to fps seatbelt tie rod
The rear ones are proving difficult to remove so as i am going to replace the rear floor...I will just cut these off then
I am back to work tomorrow so will get on with the rest end of the week
Will take some pics and put them on here then
cheers
Jim
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hmmmm....im doing my body lift next week, after spraying and fixing the cv joints, tax runs out at the end of the month but hey, i need it sorting and whilst its not being driven im biting the bullet. you lot are making it seem very easy....... :roll:
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Goodness me its a piece of cake ;)
(http://www.thenorfolkbroads.net/phpBB3/gallery/pic.php?mode=small&pic_id=352) (http://www.thenorfolkbroads.net/phpBB3/gallery/viewpic.php?pic_id=352)
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Goodness me its a piece of cake ;)
(http://www.thenorfolkbroads.net/phpBB3/gallery/pic.php?mode=small&pic_id=352) (http://www.thenorfolkbroads.net/phpBB3/gallery/viewpic.php?pic_id=352)
Mine has been so far [-o<
All the body spacers are fitted /steering column adjusted
Now just to fit rear floor spacers
Oh and do the welding of All the bloody holes i,ve found :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: