Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Defender => Topic started by: fezzy192 on November 12, 2008, 14:48:02
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i,m going to be getting some new springs the weekend so i would like to pick ya brains
if i go with a 3" spring will it drive ok or am i going to have to throw loads a money at it straight away
or will a 2"lift spring do the job i run 235/85/16 broncos on it
whats the pros and cons of both springs
cheers kev
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2 inch is popular and a good compromise lift. Should drive fairly well like that, altho you may find that the steering castor angle will need correcting (you can 'drive around' it), the front prop will wear UJs quicker (the one nearest the gearbox mostly) and the radius arm bushes will be under a little stress and reduce you down travel. All this can be rectified, but it you just want bigger tyres and little more approach and departure angle then you don't have to do any of that.....
...however....if you go as far as a 3 inch lift then it will be a pretty unpleasant drive unless you sort out the castor angle and the UJ vibration from the front prop.
In either case, I would suggest that you also get a set of extended flexible brake hoses.
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I have a 6 inch lift on my range rover classic and don't suffer with bump steer and have std caster arms, all I done with the prop was change it for a wide angle one. Ben
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I have a 6 inch lift on my range rover classic and don't suffer with bump steer and have std caster arms, all I done with the prop was change it for a wide angle one. Ben
hi ben how much is body lift and how much is suspension lift
cheers kev
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Any particular reson for getting a 3" lift?
If your ony running 235/85r16 tyres then you should not need a lift for running these.
As a general rule of thumb I would say the lift the vehicle as much as neciserry and as little as possible. Its kind of like the driving speed off road, "as fast as necissary, as slow as possible".
whats the pros and cons of both springs
There is not a one size fits all 2" or 3" lift spring. There is a wide range of springs availible to fit a land rover and depending on a number of variables includeing the sprung weight of the particular vehicle etc. will alter exactly how much lift you get and the effect on the handling. Also consider that changing the springs will alter the ride height, but will not change the limits of how far up/down the axles can potentially move.
The same general warning also goes for the dampers supplied with lift kits. There are some ill exlpained adverts out there for lift kits, some of which you could be mistaken for thinking come with longer dampers, but are infact standard length.
The flexible brake lines must allow the axle to move to the limits of the dampers/bumpstops without being stretched. If you alter the limits of axle movement then the to avoid the flexible brake lines stretching either fit longer lines, reroute the brake lines or a combination of the 2. Just fitting a set of extended lines may not be enough if the new lines are 2" longer and the axle is allowed to drop say 3" further than standard.
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For 235/85s no need to lift at all, this is the same diameter as a 750 or a 265/75, all three sizes being standard fittings on 110's at different times and optional on 90's.
I run 235/85s on Modulars, which have extra offset and have no clearence problems, in fact they maintain the steering lock with the bigger tyres.
They worked fine on standard springs and I have recently fitted Britpart heavy duty standard height springs. Gave a 1 inch "lift" as the old springs were a bit tired and handling is far better.
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I have a 6 inch lift on my range rover classic and don't suffer with bump steer and have std caster arms, all I done with the prop was change it for a wide angle one. Ben
hi ben how much is body lift and how much is suspension lift
cheers kev
I have a 2 inch body lift, 2 inch spring lift and 2 inch blocks under the springs, Ben