Mud-club
Vehicle & Technical => Defender => Topic started by: locknut on February 27, 2007, 20:51:22
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What torque setting is the front wheel bearing on my defender,single nut only. I have a cd rom but having problems accessing it. Also i'd need a front inner hub if anybody has one :!:
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That doesn't make a heap of sense, I'm afraid.
Are we talking about the 52mm hub-nut? :-s
If we are, there is no specified torque setting for it, and it should have two nuts, plus a locking washer!! :shock:
Clarification required, please :?
Cheers
8)
Eeyore
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That doesn't make a heap of sense, I'm afraid.
Are we talking about the 52mm hub-nut? :-s
If we are, there is no specified torque setting for it, and it should have two nuts, plus a locking washer!! :shock:
Clarification required, please :?
Cheers
8)
Eeyore
Eeyore... call yourself an engineer :wink: :wink: ....
It depends what year the vehicle is... but the pre 1999 method is below:
From the Land Rover Workshop manual:
Fit hub adjusting nut. Tighten to 50 Nm (37 lbf/ft). Ensure hub is free to rotate with no bearing play.
Back off adjusting nut 90° and tighten to 10 Nm (7 lbf/ft).
Fit a new lock washer.
Fit locknut. Tighten to 50 Nm (37 lbf/ft).
Tab over lock washer to secure adjusting nut and locknut.
In all honesty I don't usually use the first torque figure and set the bearing up by feel... but the outside nut should be torqued up to 50Nm
And then from '99 onwards the two nuts were replaced with one.. and thus the method changes.
Instal washer and new hub nut and tighten to 30 Nm (22 lbf.ft).
Rotate and push/pull hub to settle bearings. Tighten hub nut to 210 Nm (150 lbf.ft).
To check hub assembly end float, mount a dial gauge using bracket LRT-99-503 to driving member bolt hole.
Ensure dial gauge is contacting hub nut face.
Move hub assembly in and out noting dial gauge reading.
If end float is present refer to table for correct spacer and change spacer as necessary.
End float (mm) Spacer size (mm) Colour code
0.00 15.5 Purple
0.025 15.4 Yellow
0.050 15.4 Yellow
0.075 15.4 Yellow
0.10 15.3 Red
0.125 15.3 Red
0.150 15.3 Red
0.175 15.2 Blue
0.200 15.2 Blue
0.225 15.2 Blue
0.250 15.2 Blue
0.275 15.1 Green
0.300 15.1 Green
0.325 15.1 Green
0.350 15.1 Green
0.375 15.0 Black
0.400 15.0 Black
0.425 15.0 Black
0.450 15.0 Black
0.475 14.9 White
0.500 14.9 White
0.525 14.9 White
0.550 14.9 White
When no end float is evident, remove the dial gauge and mounting bracket.
Stake the hub nut.
Ian
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No, but I'm pretty good on nipping up wheel bearings :wink:
The described methods wortk fine if boths nuts are there and I read the orignal post as there being only one nut present! My bad :lol:
If both nuts are present, then yes, feel free to torque the outer nut up, but before bashing the lock washer over make sure the inner nut hasn't been affected by tightening the outer nut up (and trust me, it happens).
Sorry for the confusion!
Cheers
8)
Eeyore
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That doesn't make a heap of sense, I'm afraid.
Are we talking about the 52mm hub-nut? :-s
If we are, there is no specified torque setting for it, and it should have two nuts, plus a locking washer!! :shock:
Clarification required, please :?
Cheers
8)
Eeyore
There is now.
In this day and age manufacturers want you to use their dealerships.
When I was taught a torque wrench was for very special jobs. Now it seems you need one for every job.
This is how I do it on the two locking nut type.
http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php?t=81748
Well that's the way I was taught.
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There is now.
In this day and age manufacturers want you to use their dealerships.
When I was taught a torque wrench was for very special jobs. Now it seems you need one for every job.
This is how I do it on the two locking nut type.
http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php?t=81748
Well that's the way I was taught.
Which is fine if you know what your are doing.... and the 'way I was taught' is the most important part of that statement.
But at least with a specific torque figure in theory even a complete mechanical novice should not be able to get it wrong...
The term 'fitters feel' is not something that a complete novice will know.
I've known people just do everything up 'FT' (and I mean very, very FT!!)... and then wonder why stuff fails or bolts snap :shock:
Ian
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Just noticed the OP's user name...... how apt for this thread :lol:
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thanx for all the info, it's a late 1999 model with a single locking nut and a partly worn inner hub.....more money....... :(bigcry):
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There is now.
In this day and age manufacturers want you to use their dealerships.
When I was taught a torque wrench was for very special jobs. Now it seems you need one for every job.
This is how I do it on the two locking nut type.
http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php?t=81748
Well that's the way I was taught.
Which is fine if you know what your are doing.... and the 'way I was taught' is the most important part of that statement.
But at least with a specific torque figure in theory even a complete mechanical novice should not be able to get it wrong...
The term 'fitters feel' is not something that a complete novice will know.
I've known people just do everything up 'FT' (and I mean very, very FT!!)... and then wonder why stuff fails or bolts snap :shock:
Ian
I know what you mean Ian :roll:
My daughter rang the other week wanting to know rhe torque of the hocky stick big nut. I told her to put her ex boyfriend and told him FT would do. She hasn't stopped laughing since he passed the message back to her.
Back to topic.
Am I right in thinking that the later hub nuts can be changed to the earlier ones. Or is that just a tale.