Vehicle & Technical > Defender

Wheel bearings

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Ollie:
OK, so, I didn't get very far;
I managed to remove the brake pads, that was it. The top swival bolt securing the bracket that holds the brake pipe can't bet got at with a socket. So, a 17mm open ended spanner was tried, no purchase as half the width of the head is obscured with the afore mentioned bracket.
So, look to cut the bracket and brake pipe off, remake later. The bleed nipple is shot to pieces, infact, the whole brake caliper has badly corroded. Are these expensive? I can't remove it anyway as the bolts are a strange star shape?
Also noted shock weeping, I think that's an MoT failure?

[!Expletive Deleted!]

Ollie.

Guy90:
I don't fiddle with the brakes. Just undo the star bolts. Its a 13mm by the way and then move the calipher out of the way. Don't need to worry on the back as its drums.

Ollie:
I can't remove the caliper without removing the top swival bolts as the flexable hose terminates there and is solid brake pipe from there to the caliper, so, unfortunately, I have to somehow work out how to remove this awkward bracket.

Although, looking at the caliper, I think I might have to renew it anyway as its badly corroded :(

Cheers,
Ollie.

freeagent:
you need to remove the flexible pipe union from the metal bracket, then you can get to the two bolts holding the bracket onto the top of the swivel housing.
i replaced mine with cap-head bolts (can be removed with a hex key or hex hey socket) they are a higher spec bolt than the standard part (12.8 tensile rating as oposed to 10.something) so no worries about not using standard parts. they are considerably easier to remove than regular bolts.
if you (gently) wire brush the pipe union you'll see how it comes apart.
the caliper mounting bolts can be removed with a standard 12 point 13mm spanner or socket, they are very tight, and locktited in.
you'll need a hub nut spanner (52mm i think) they can be bought for about a fiver, don't try to remove the hub nuts with a hammer and chisel its the monkey method and you will regret it.
the bearings are an fairly straight forward job, just don't leave it until they are totally knackered or full of mud as you'll be buying a new stubb axle aswell.
if you don't have any circlip pliers don't worry, you can remove the drive member with the half-shaft still attached...

muddyweb:

--- Quote from: "freeagent" ---if you don't have any circlip pliers don't worry, you can remove the drive member with the half-shaft still attached...
--- End quote ---


That depends on the CV joint...  the outer shaft is part of the CV on a lot of models so you have to remove the circlip before you can remove the driving member ;-)

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