Vehicle & Technical > Discovery

lift and anti roll bars

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Bobtail:
here we go then..............................

i have put a 2"lift on my disco and it is fitted with anti roll bars
will these inhibit axle articulation off road or not  :?:

do i remove them :?:

or do i make up spacers to fit between them and chassis :?:

do i leave them alone :?:

help please :-k  :D

muddyweb:
They make a positive difference to the on-road handling, and whilst they will have an effect on articulation, my view is that unless you are doing some very demanding stuff, then the nett gain of having them on is more than that of taking them off.

Put a spacer in there to stop them from flipping over.

Lostboy:
I've been contemplating this...being about to do a lift on mine. Somewhere I heard of someone making a 'quick disconnect' type fixing for the bars from somewhere, does anyone know any more details?

Budgie:
I kept the bars on mine with the 2" lift and didn't bother with spacers. (mainly cos I didn't think of it!  :roll: )

Since putting the 3" lift on there I have removed both of them. Once I'd put the caster correction radius arms on the front propshaft was touching the anti roll bar so that had to come off and the rear needed new ball-joints anyway so it was also removed.

I'd tend to go with Tim and say leave them on with only a 2" lift and fit spacers. Someone on here suggested using tow hitch spacers, the solid ones not cast, to do the job.

As for quick releases, I've seen them for Jeeps and other US 4x4's but not for Land Rovers, although I'm sure there's someone that's made a set!  :wink:

Range Rover Blues:
I put towball spacers on mine, get them from towsure 'cos most of the others are made from extruded aluminum and have a hole right through the middle.
I still have problems with it flipping over at the back though, so I unbolt it and flip it over towards the back then cable-tie it to the chassis out of harm's way.
I've seen quick diconnects that some Yanks use and I think they are poo!  They replace the special bolt with a length of rod which is held in place with a clip!  The problem with that is that the bolt has to resist being twisted up and down as the bar does it's job so the clip is going to get a huge shear force and the rod will quickly fret against the bar and wear the hole away.
I'm looking into replacing the special bolt with a tube over a standard bolt, like most polybushes in fact, then fitting stainless bolts with nylocs so they will come undone more easily and line up a little better at the end of the play.

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