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NON cavity wall insulation, methods?

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Mutz:
Not far from me then, Hmm 90 is in the rolling chassis stage.

Long way to go but funds are low at the moment; so it will just have to wait a bit longer.

Sold my Blue Paj, and just using the wifes Black Paj when i want to go laning.

Range Rover Blues:
I heard of an old house in Gainsborough that the new occupants decided to redecorate only to find several inches of newspaper under the wallpaper.

wheels244:
Have a look at this - it should help.

http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=1921

I'm just about to embark on doing some of our house - early 1700's with 18in stone walls - apparentley solid walls will lose heat over twice as fast as a cavity wall  :(

carbore:
Some good advice here and that forum link is also interesting.

We opted for foam/foil backed platerboard at about 30cm called xtratherm. Oyr walls are 2ft thick stone, no cavity. Having moved in over Christmas I can say the house is now amazing at statying warm. We really went to town on inulation as it has the fastest payback rate over say solar heatign/ground source etc.

If you batton it off the walls or "dot and dab"  (Balically glue it) then you shoudl have no more damp form condensation. Beware though that its quite thick so think about how that affects any electrical sockets or switches on the wall and how you will finish the reveals/sills  around the windows.

And buy for a builders merchant after phoning around for a lot of quotes, ask for best prices and dont pay the first thing your quoted. We started on 5% disocunt and ended up on about 20% for our materials (mind you we spent a blinking fortune)

jay2578:
battening the walls then plasterboarding is probably the cheapest option, but make sure you use vapour barrier, which is bought on a roll(looks a bit like sandwich bag material) which is a lot cheaper than the vapour barrier plasterboard . staple this over the battens before fixing the plasterboard. using kingspan etc. is also a good idea, but you will still need an air gap of at least 20mm otherwise the kingspan acts as a moisture bridge and the damp and mould will return.
 to use kingspan to its full potential you would need at least 3" x 2" timbers fixed edge on, 40mm kingspan sandwiched in between, vapour barrier over that, then plasterboard. overall you`d lose about 3and a half inches of floorspace per wall

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