Vehicle & Technical > Defender

Diff bearings

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Axetamer:
Thanks Mark, now I have a better idea of how to get it off the car.

I've been out today and bought/ordered the bits I think I need: pinion bearings, seal and shield and outer bearings, gasket,  I haven't stripped it yet but  I am hoping the gears and pinion aren't too badly worn. I don't want to spend too much on rebuilding so if its a bit noisey that's ok, as I'm hoping that ARB's will be going in next year

I found this guide to building diffs:

http://www.crowndiffs.co.uk/faqs.html#how_build

Does anybody have preload and torque figs, mines 1988 and I think its a 10 spline, .....the early diff?

extreme90:
im sorry but ive never undone my caliper when doing this same thing
remove the track rod
slide the assay out a few inches till it dropps and tie up the caliper

Mark_Solesbury:
i always find that because of the weight, the caliper wants to go to the bottom which puts pressure on the lines.

Thinking about it, you could jam the brakes on and make chock the wheels

Axetamer:
I'm gonna do it saturday, weather permitting.....I'll do a pictoral if I remember

clbarclay:
I'm with Dan on this one, why remove the calipers when a piece of string is very effective at defying gravity.

I have got fed up with either splitting brake lines or removing the top swivel pin bolts and the resulting leak required to remove the calipers. Not for changing diffs, but removing the hub to change wheel bearings etc.
What I did what was (and probably still is) common mod in rallying and turned the holes in the brakets holding the brake lines to the swivels into slots. Just remove the caliper bolts and slaken the brake hose lock nuts is all thats required now to remove the calipers, no more mess and less wasted time, plus sods law means that I have not had to remove the calipers as much :lol:

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