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300TDI Cambelt Change Step By Step With Pics

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solihull-mick:
Whilst doing a cambelt change today i took the liberty of taking pics as i go,

Remove the top part of the fan shroud,small spring clip drivers side of ther cowling



Remove the fan hub. this is left hand thread, undo is clockwise,



Remove the rest of the fan cowling,  two small metal clips at the top,unclip the coolant pipe from the lower section before you try and lift it out,




Disconnect the coolant pipes from the rad, Rad removed to show in better detail for pics, not necessary to remove rad to do the job, but hell of a lot easier



Disconnect the oil cooler pipes, you will get a lillte spilage,Do not loose the two small rubber o rings from the oil cooler pipes,




Two Brackets either side of the rad have to be removed, 13mm bolts,




Rad removed



Remove the fan belt by lifting the tensioner with a 15mm spanner,




Remove the idler pulley four 10mm headed bolts




Remove the crank nut and washer, this should be very tight, 27mm socket needed,



Cleaning threads in pulley



You will need a suitable puller to remove the crank damper, normally seized in place




Pulley removed



Remove all the 10mm headed bolts from the timing cover




Wind the engine round in the directiom of rotation till the timing marks line up, this shows the crank marker, the woodruff key will be at the very top




Cam timing marker is a line in the gear, that aligns with a cast pointer in the casing,




Injection pump timing is done by means of a 9.5mm pin




Undo the 8mm allen key in the middle of the tensioner,and discard it



Remove the 15mm nut from the idler wheel, and discard it




Remove the idler bearing,




Look up inside of the wading plug you will see a line in the flywheel, this should be perfecly in the centre of the wading hole, to show true TDC



If your crank gear looks like the right hand one change it for the later type, left hand one,


Sometimes you can move the gear with a pry,




If not use a suitable puller




Replace the o ring behind the crank gear,




Replace the idler stud that comes in the kit,




Refit the new crank gear till its all the way home




New tensioner and idler gear ready to be fitted




When fitted this is how they interlock,




Loosen the 3 10mm headed bolts in the injection pump gear,




Refit the new belt with the new tensioners. making sure the injection pump gear is at its max setting to the right, witht he pump still pegged, tension belt using the 1/2 inch squre hole in the tensioner pulley, not to tight, if you can just twist the belt on its longest run thats fine, make sure all the timing marks are in line, tighten the 10mm bolts in the injection pulley, wind the engine over in the direction of rotation, make sure all the marks line up again, thats job done, recheck all hardware before refitting timing cover,



More pics to follow tomorrow,

drfence:
in tommorows installment can we have a bit more detail please :lol:

lee celtic:
Brilliant write up  :clap: :clap: :clap:

could you answer one question....

How do you get the belt on ????

I had a hell of a job on the 200... the belt was new and seemed too short and was very tight...

Lee...

Disco_Stu:
Great write up Mick. One of the black magic Land Rover myths busted there, bar the pullers, not a special tool in sight.

Good work.

Stu.

Andy41:
fantastic write up mine needs doing in next 6 months armed with them picys going give it ago

thanks mick.  :D

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