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help lifting my truck

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muddymud:
ok im thinking about putting a lift on my 1990 disco.

step 1
my plan is to get a 2" lift (springs, shocks, dislo cones F+R, spring retainers F+R anything elts i need?

step 2
cranked radios arms, brake hoses, poly bush kit, four poly bush bump stops, tubular shock turrets.

step 3
when i have all of that im thinking 1" spring spacers.

anything i have missed?

what weight spring should i use as im looking for an all round offroad spring?
also when i was looking on paddock im abit confused with the number like this- 

Front Coil Spring - RHD to HA475972 - DISCOVERY 1

what do they mean?

Cheers
Nick

Budgie:
HA475972 is the chassis number. So if you chassis number is lower than this then that's the springs you need.  ;)

I would put the lengthened brake hoses in step 1 as they are a safety feature.
If you're thinking about adding spring spacers then why not just get a +3" spring kit? You will need the cranked radius arms and probably a TD5 front propshaft with is option though.

The main thing to think about is "what will I be using it for?"
Will you need tubular shock turrets?
What size tyres are you going to fit?
Will you also need to cut the body or fit extended wheelarch flares?

Skibum346:
Defintely put the brake hoses in step one!   :shock: :shock: :shock:

If you are at extreme aarticulation you could snap a brake hose... not fun if you need to rely on them suddenly!

If you need to save money, lose the dislocation cones to step 2.

Range Rover Blues:
Agreed with all the above.

Step 1 is deciding what you intend to do with it, and where you want to end up.  That way you don't make costly mistakes/have to bin parts you've not had the use of and you avoid any unsafe situations.

I'd advise 3" springs because they will likely be designed for that lift and the truck will handle appropriately.  I'm not a fan of spacers though they have their place.

Another route for you might be cones and longer dampers with standard springs for now, more articluation, for heaven's sake do the brake lines at the same time, then later you can go for a TD5 prop, castor arms and 3" springs, at 3" I'd put money on you needing castor arms ;)

You also need to space the ARBs, but that's a cheap job, longer bolts and towball spacers do the trick :), yo need to do this at both end because the front prop will get very close to the ARB even though it isn't at risk of inverting like the back one.
I'd also suggest you end up with H/D rear trailing links, cranked preferably.

Extra long bump stops are a good idea if you fit oversized tyres or go more than plus2" on the rear shocks as you don't want the shock becoming the bump stop.

Polybush the panhard rod, it works very hard on a lifted truck.

You don't need to change the shock towers but tubular ones allow more air cooling if you do comnp safari!  you will want H/D retaining rings though, the original ones are made of cheese but this is a cheap part.

Springs will typically be around plus25% for a lift unless you specify winch, extra guard etc and it's worth thinking ahead, if you plan a permenant winch and some heavy tank/sill/steering guards ten your springs need to be stiffer.  This will ocst more than an off-the-shelf lift kit from say Britpart.

At the end of the day do you need a lift? are you fitting big tyres?

boss:
if your lifting it 2" you wont need cranked arms. if you put cranked arms on you will need new propshafts. if you go over 2" you will pop UJs more often with standard shafts, not to mention binding.
not to mention i am yet to see a cranked arm that is as strong as a RL one.

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