Vehicle & Technical > Discovery

Wheel bearings gone

<< < (2/4) > >>

Range Rover Blues:
Ah, the intermttant gravity press :lol:  Hammer and an old screwdriver to drift the bearing races in and out, some grease of course.

Make a flat plate with a 4mm step in it to drift the new oil seal back in, it sits 4mm below the machined face.

I use water pump plyers, you can take the hub nuts off with them, you can also bend the tab washer down.

17mm on newer axles for the driver member, 14mm on older ones IIRC. 13mm rings a bell for the callipers but best to take a range of sockets and a big breaker bar.

The water pump plyers are also handy for pushing the brake pads back in before removing the calliper, take something to support that too ;) and IIRC you need to slacker or remove the top swivel pin to move the rigid brake pipes :-k

Circlip plyers if you have ABS axles

oh and if the bearing has seized at any point in time you with have to mash the old bearings up to get them off the stub axle, so a grinder if they were Timken bearings or a cold chisel if they were hong kong fuey ones, plus goggles.

Jack and axle stands

When you retighten the hub nuts, nip the inner one up hand tight whilst spinning the hub, then slacken off 90 degrees.  fit the lock washer and nip the second nut up to the first, check that you can fell a tiny amount of play then bend the washer.

If you have ABS axles you should also check that when fully assembled you can still get at least a pice of paper under the circlip on the driveshgaft witht he hub pulled out as far as possible, this tells you that the wheel bearings are controlling endfloat in the hub and not the CV joint.  If the later were the case the CV bearing would expire quite quickly.  CHeck also that there is not excessive float in the CV shaft.  If you have non ABS axles the drive member and driveshaft are one part, ignore all the stuff about circlips and endfloat ;)

mobi:
just a tip if you havn't got a press, when you punch out the bearing outer put a cut in it then you can use it to tap/hammer the new bearing in.

drive flange bolts are 17mm on a 300 and 9/16 (14mm) on a 200.
calliper bolts are 13mm 12 pointed on a 300 don't know for a 200.

clover:
Hi

Right seeing as my problem is roughly related to this thread I'll just on to this one rather than starting a new one.

First I'll explain what I've done... then I'll explain why its right royally rogered!

I rebuild the whole of my front axle more or less. I fitted a replacement diff, on both sides I replaced the swivels, seals, swivel bearings, I fitted new swivel pins on one side, I fitted 2 replacement hubs and one replacement stub axle, a complete set of 4 wheel bearings, new seals, new disks and pads. I did the hub nut up as tight as I could get it using a large screwdriver through the two holes in the hub spanner.

When I put the calipers back on and the pads in the wheels would not turn. It seems that the disks are fouling the calipers (both wheels). The disks are too far out so the side of the disk that faces outwards is fouling the caliper.

Secondly despite doing the hub nut up as tight as I could I still have loads of play in the wheel.

The wheel bearings were timken ones and as far as I can tell the disks are the right ones. I double checked the seals were on the right way round. The hubs and stub axle came from the same vehicle and looked identical to the ones I took off.

I dunno what the hell I've done wrong...

crazymac:
The 1st thing I'd do is take the calipers back off, to see if that really is why your hub is not turning? It strikes me that the bearings aren't seated properly so you're not getting the hub on fully? So I'd look there 1st.

There is two hub nuts, one of them only needs to be done hand tight ish, not as tight as you can get it!

clover:
Been told that there are at least 3 different size hubs and stub axles and that I probably have been supplied with the wrong hubs. I'm  assuming the distance between the two bearings is shorter than my stubs so the bearings are not pinching up and the hub nut is just running out of thread...

It may be that the replacement stub axle I bought may not match either of the hubs I have.

Rapidly loosing the will to live...

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page