Vehicle & Technical > Defender

brakes

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Sabo:
Hi
I have 110CSW 1986 with drum brakes on the back, can these be changed to disc brakes, tried CP components but he's now gone out of business.
Are disc brakes better? 
Any advice.
I'm thinking of vented discs for the front as well, need better breaking as a full vehicle slows down a lot slower, especially when one of my lads is now taller than me!

Dave
Nottingham

TDi90:
hi dave.
personally i changed my rear axle to a range rover one but disco ones can be fitted too.
i only did it for offroading, because the drums kept filling up with mud!
hth
R

crazymac:
I'm not positive on this so feel free to correct me? The 110 has a salsbury rear axle with Drums, so to stay legal ( I know its boring!) you would need to fit a salsbury Disc axle??

I have a mate who is talking about this, and he is quite  :-k :roll: about staying inside the law, specifically regarding being in an accident and an assessor looking at your vehicle and realising that you have the wrong axle!!

Personally I think he is worrying about nothing, but ???????

Eeyore:
Your right about the Salisbury axle being fitted, but the Range Rover / 90 axles are no less strong. Sure the Salisbury has a four pin diff and tougher shafts, but on a permanent 4x4 system, both axles take the same torque, so the Salisbury was acutally pretty unecessary.

The quickest option for disking the rear would be to fit a later, 300tdi Salisbury axle, however these can seem to be quite pricey. A standard Rover type rear can be fitted and is cheaper, but you'll need a new prop, which will add to the cost. A Range Rover/Disco axle also has smaller calipers than the Defender, so they may need replacing too. Post '02 110 axles are the thing to have, but they are awesomely expensive! ....and you'll still need a new prop (grrrrr!).

As for vented disks on the front, I really wouldn't bother, unless you plan on doing a lot of towing in France. The unvented sort are lighter and work just as well, and they don't fill with mud!

V8MoneyPit:
We have this conversation with Mini owners all the time at work. It all depends on what you mean by 'better brakes'.

If you stamp on the pedal with the existing setup, you should be able to lock the wheels. This as much braking 'power' as you can get. If you can't lock the wheels, there is something wrong with the brakes. Or you aren't pushing the pedal hard enough!

If you are finding that the brakes are overheating when in contant hard use, then fitting vented fronts and disc rears will improve this because they are better cooled.

If you wish to reduce pedal effort, a different ratio servo would be needed to achieve this. Or different piston sizes in the calipers to change the hydraulic ratio. Not sure if any of the options available will achieve this though. You might find later master cylinders are a different bore to 'lighten' the pedal, but again I'm not sure. Others may be able to advise.

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