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Best way of stopping the rot?

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TBM:

--- Quote from: brixworth-alan on August 31, 2008, 12:05:00 ---I did weld it up, however MIG has turned out to be be too porous and the contents weep out. Best laid plans and all that ....

Plan B was to use a metal-filled epoxy resin, and so far this seems to be water-tight and flexible enough too. The product is recommended for crank-cases so ought to be able to take heat and a certain amount of expansion.

I'll let you know how I get on

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Frosts tank repair:

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8232&frostProductName=Fuel%20Tank%20Sealer%20(US%20Quart,%20946ml)

Bob Ajob:

--- Quote from: carbore on June 20, 2008, 21:19:18 ---There is a chemical way wiht electrolosys that I know but cant remember the formula. Its v.good (according to people who I trust) and gets in all the nooks and crannys. Ill try to dig it out.

The worst thing is that even aluminimum rusts (well bi-metalic corrosion anyway)

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For parts that will fit in a bucket, or anything else that will hold water (plastic window boxes for doing springs), electrolysis is great. All you need is a battery charger, a bucket, water, soda crystals, and a sacrificial chunk of iron / steel (NOT stainless).

Rather than tell you directly what to do, try google with electrolytic rust removal, there's loads of great sites on this. Let me just tell you that it works, I did my engine fan in a bucket in two goes, the rust is gone, and it leaves a nice clean metal ready for paint (or just oiled for now). This is my preferred way of removing rust, as you can just leave it. BEWARE that this process creates hydrogen, so do this in a place with plenty of air - don't do this is a dark shed, then turn on the light when you go in...

brixworth-alan:
Practical classics has a 'how to' guide this month.

Vinegar's still working for me at the moment :)

Bit smelly though, so i'll probably build myself an electrolysis tank at some point.

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