Vehicle & Technical > Defender
2.5 TD running rough after re-build
Graham2:
Not sure, as this is my first diesel engined vehicle. Maybe yours just smokes a lot till things get warm. Maybe your pump is knackered, it's worth checking out the diaphragm though, but if you can't get it back together, don't blame me! There's a couple of springs in there that look like they could be a pain to get back in right. Probably easy on a bench, not so easy when still fitted. I just hope it cures my problems.
Graham2:
Fitted the diaphragm, put timing cover etc back on, started after 2 or 3 turns of the key. Ticks over better, but not as nice as before the re-build, but still tons of white smoke when it's revved! I'm completely stumped. The diaphragm's working, as if I suck on the pipe, I can hear the pin in the side of the pump move (and I don't get a mouthful of diesel) HELP!
trickydicky:
try the lift pump i havnt done myn yet but i heard if its on the way out it can suck in air back from the tank but who knows i have been listning to good advice for about 12 months and it has only cost me money the lift pump is my last hope. good luck and keep me posted as i have the same problem
Graham2:
I bled the pump and no air was coming out, just fuel, but if I loosen an injector nut on any of the injectors, the engine stalls. The engine should still run even on three cylinders, as it's the way to test for a dodgy injector. Maybe air's getting into the system somewhere as you say. The chap at Sewells Of Leeds says white smoke is a symptom of too much air. He suggested that I have a container of diesel with clear plastic pipe from it to the lift pump, and another bit from the return pipe on the injectors. This then does away with the tank and the associated pipework. I'll give it a go after the bank holiday and let you know how I get on- just hope it's good news!
trickydicky:
WOW LOOK WHAT I FOUND MATEY READ THIS THEN if you find the power is very high but you have lots of black smoke
from exhaust at all ranges , undo the fuel metering screw on rear of
pump and go out 1/4 turn at a time until smoke dissappears .
youll have to strike balance between power and smoke and so it may take
a few attempts to get satisfactory .
this screw is on rear of pum near the injector pipe unions , it has a
13mm locknut and a screwthread extending out about 25mm , there is
screwdriver slot in end of thread , you hold locknut loose with spanner
and then unscrew or screw the thread in or out as desired .
IN for more fuel, OUT for less .
the "smoke adjuster" is on top of pump housing,there is a small [gold]
blanking cap [15mm dia] on top of casting which has the 4 screws in ,
pry cap out with screwdriver and youll see 13mm locknut with a 8mm TORX
grub screw , this screw is screwed in for more fuel and out for less ,
locknut may be loctited and so might need a bit of effort to undo .
inside pump, under top casting , ie the housing on top of pump which
has 4 screws holding it down , is a diaphragm and shaft and a starwheel
adjuster which alters fuel delivery rates .
the metal plate holding rubber diaphragm has a dot mark on it and the
diaphragm can be rotated to change fuel metering rates , this will be
pointing somewhere between 12 oclock [to rocker cover] and 6 oclock
[towards wing ] , the leanest position is towards rocker cover and
richest towards wing .
just take it that youll position it somewhere from 12 oclock to 6
oclock , it does not screw in and out but rotates around a 360deg axis
.
you can pull the diaphragm assembly out by hand , in one piece with
rubber and shaft attatched .
on shaft youll note a tapered and eccentric shape of shaft , this
rests against a pin down in the pump itself and alters fuel rates
according to position the taper or eccentric is in .
the turbo boost pressure is applied upon diaphragm via pipe on side of
top housing and thus pushes shaft down using the diaphragm , allowing
pin in pump to come in and allow more fuel thru as revs and boost
pressure increase etc .
under diaphragm youll see large spring , this is just placed in there
and can be removed/reinstalled easily .
under spring youll see a starwheel adjuster , this has a click stop
adjustment and if you pry the lock spring using screwdriver you can
rotate the starwheel .
to lessen spring pressure effect of starwheel you will screw the
starwheel in clockwise , but only about 1/2 turn at a time and noting
smoke from exhaust [under load] after adjustment .
to lessen spring effect you undo the starwheel .
this starwheel alters the spring pressure against the diaphragm and
alters where the turbo boost is allowed to move the diaphragm downwards
to increase fuel flow .
basically only minor adjustment of starwheel should need to be made ,
if any adjustment .
there is a white nylon spacer on the metering shaft and dont forget to
make sure it is still fitted when refitting metering shaft/diaphragm
and spring assembly , as it stops length of travel of metering shaft .
the main adjustment that makes most difference is the full load
adjustment on rear of pump , if unscrewed too far youll note lack of
pull when in top gear at low [25mph ] speed when on flat road .
hope that is easy enough to understand.
ive been adjusting my pump for maximum economy , so all my adjustments
have been in reverse .
previous owner screwed everything IN , yes it went like stink but i
only got 23mpg locally and lees on motorway driving .
cheers , ian .
.
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