Vehicle & Technical > Range Rover
bang/clonk coming from steering?
benbenukuk:
How easy is it to strip down the hub etc. and renew the CV joint's?
Bobtail:
--- Quote from: Range Rover Blues on April 09, 2008, 15:35:11 ---Your could be the panhard rod that's loose then :-k if it's just one biggish clonk, or the drop arm loose 8-[
--- End quote ---
:-k :-k :-k :-k :-k :-k :-k :-k :-k :-k :-k :-k :-k :-k :-k :-k
Will check tomorrow
Range Rover Blues:
--- Quote from: benbenukuk on April 09, 2008, 15:37:07 ---How easy is it to strip down the hub etc. and renew the CV joint's?
--- End quote ---
Not massivley hard.
-Wheel off
-Calliper off (you may have to remove the top swivel pin bolts to move the brake pipe bracket, hold the hub up with a jack to stop oil escaping then put the botls back in.
-non-ABS axles, remove the outer drive shaft
Remove the hub nuts and hub/bearing/disk assy
remove the stub axle
pull the CV out, the half shaft may come with it in whch case support the half shaft to protect the oil seal inside the chrome swivel once it is away from the halfshaft bearing
-ABS axles, remove the circlip and the shims below it, keep them safe (you find them under a black palastic cap)
remove the outer drive flange
Remove the hub nuts and remove the hub/bearing/disk assy
remove the stub axle, carefully it has an oil seal within
withdraw the CV/halfshaft assy as the CV is secured to the shaft with a snap ring, be careful to protect the oil seal inside the chrome swivel as there is no bearing to supprt the halfshaft
If nothing goes wrong, maybe an hour, maybe 2.
Things to be careful of-
The stub axle bolts can pull metal out of the threads into the steering knuckle, it's cast iron. If the female thread is damaged the knuckle is scrap
Check the stub axle carefully for signs of damaged from a siezed bearing, the surface dameg can stop the bearing running true and the heat damage will effect the stub axle's hardness/strength
support the calliper on a bucket, you can get away without disconnecting the brake hydraulics if you are careful with the short pipes on the calliper.
Oil will escape from the swivle, best to drain it before you start. You'll proabably find it begins to leaks afterwards anyway regardless, they do that :evil:
Bobtail:
--- Quote from: Range Rover Blues on April 10, 2008, 00:09:09 ---
--- Quote from: benbenukuk on April 09, 2008, 15:37:07 ---How easy is it to strip down the hub etc. and renew the CV joint's?
--- End quote ---
Not massivley hard.
-Wheel off
-Calliper off (you may have to remove the top swivel pin bolts to move the brake pipe bracket, hold the hub up with a jack to stop oil escaping then put the botls back in.
-non-ABS axles, remove the outer drive shaft
Remove the hub nuts and hub/bearing/disk assy
remove the stub axle
pull the CV out, the half shaft may come with it in whch case support the half shaft to protect the oil seal inside the chrome swivel once it is away from the halfshaft bearing
-ABS axles, remove the circlip and the shims below it, keep them safe (you find them under a black palastic cap)
remove the outer drive flange
Remove the hub nuts and remove the hub/bearing/disk assy
remove the stub axle, carefully it has an oil seal within
withdraw the CV/halfshaft assy as the CV is secured to the shaft with a snap ring, be careful to protect the oil seal inside the chrome swivel as there is no bearing to supprt the halfshaft
If nothing goes wrong, maybe an hour, maybe 2.
Things to be careful of-
The stub axle bolts can pull metal out of the threads into the steering knuckle, it's cast iron. If the female thread is damaged the knuckle is scrap
Check the stub axle carefully for signs of damaged from a siezed bearing, the surface dameg can stop the bearing running true and the heat damage will effect the stub axle's hardness/strength
support the calliper on a bucket, you can get away without disconnecting the brake hydraulics if you are careful with the short pipes on the calliper.
Oil will escape from the swivle, best to drain it before you start. You'll proabably find it begins to leaks afterwards anyway regardless, they do that :evil:
--- End quote ---
And when you put it back together USE A TORQUE WRENCH.. :doh:
And you will not snap a caliper mounting bolt :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: Like i did
Then spend six hours trying to get it out
All setting are in the Haynes book of Lies [-o< [-o< :clap: :clap:
benbenukuk:
Before I have The cv's stripped etc. I thought I would give you a update on the clonk, I drove over a kerb this afternoon with the left front wheel going over it, As it was about to come down it clonked, before the CV gets changed is there anything else it could be that would cause it to clonk when going over a kerb? Ben
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