Vehicle & Technical > Series Land Rovers
Webber carb question
baron von ledwidge:
WOW thanks forthe responses, itsjust the standard single port webber, it is fitted with the adapter plate but was just removed to becleaed and he didnf finsih re fitting it, ill post some pics up later today to see if that helps ayone just seems to have a few little bits missing
thanks
aaron
baron von ledwidge:
Heya this whole world of pretrol is still kinda confsing lol, i think the carb is all fitted up now, i have attached all the pipework tho im getting a lot of sediment in my filter at the mo, my chocke cable seems to be stuck solid are these available from webber?
also is the choke arm meant to return with a spring or is it all cable movement?
Is there a simple way to check all the electronics are working eg, spark plugs and stuff,
thanks
aaron
Defender:
The Weber Carb fitted to my old Series 3 was a nightmare when it came to icing up. :x It didn't even have to be below freezing to do it.
Some journeys it would repeatedly ice up & I'd have to keep stopping every few miles to let it de-frost before i could continue.
I eventually managed to get a different Weber Carb from Automotive Componant Remanufacturing.
I think it was an ICEV type. It had the facility to connect it up to the vehicles cooling system & this helps prevent icing up in cold weather.
Rich_P:
--- Quote from: baron von ledwidge on March 25, 2008, 18:03:09 ---Heya this whole world of pretrol is still kinda confsing lol, i think the carb is all fitted up now, i have attached all the pipework tho im getting a lot of sediment in my filter at the mo, my chocke cable seems to be stuck solid are these available from webber?
also is the choke arm meant to return with a spring or is it all cable movement?
--- End quote ---
The choke is cable operated, but I think it should feature a small return spring to add resistance (although I do not think it would prevent the function if it wasn't fitted). I think it is the wound up type and goes on the shaft. The choke cables are also supposed to be lubricated every now and then, and to do this you disconnect the cable and its surround from the carb, and disconnect it at the dash end and pull it out. I don't know what you need to disconnect to remove it on a Series 3, but on a late 2A the dash has to come out to undo the lock nut for the cable surround and to disconnect the orange choke warning lamp sensor.
--- Quote from: baron von ledwidge on March 25, 2008, 18:03:09 ---Is there a simple way to check all the electronics are working eg, spark plugs and stuff,
thanks
aaron
--- End quote ---
Well, it depends what equipment you have. I have a load of testing equipment for petrol engines. Timing is supposed to be ideally set up statically, but to check the advance and retard is working properly then the use of a strobe light is ideal. There's also point gaps, to determine the strength of the spark and also the condenser (known as capacitor in today's terms) has to be replaced every few thousand miles. Oh, and worth noting that a standard ignition system is not electronic. ;)
Then there's of course mixture, something best set by ear to find the sweet spot in the engine idle. The engine must be running on the idle jet and not the main jet (main jet takes over at around 1,000rpm I think), and just adjust the mixture to find the smoothest and quickest idle pace. Then adjust idle speed accordingly, and repeat process until you get the ideal settings.
Old petrol engines are a lot more complicated than the diesel engines of the same era. It's only in very recent times that diesel engines have become just as complicated if not more than the petrol engine. :doh:
baron von ledwidge:
ah okies, well the distributor looks new and so do the ht leads, i think the warning lamp is in the dash pannel and the choke is fitted below the dash facing dow towards the gearbox casing, i think ill have to keep tinkering with it i tried to tow start it ont he way over and the fuel pump is working but i guess this is not as cose to runnign as on the diesel lol.
thanks for your help so far and ill keep playing
should the petrol ahve the cut out bar that sits next to the ignition or does this mean that this petrol was a diesel at some point?
thanks
aaron
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