Vehicle & Technical > Defender

Roof Bar Spot Lights - Wiring?

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marjan:
I just ran 1 single 17 amp wire from a relay mounted near the wiper motor then scotch locked each lamp into that wire (apart from the last one) and earthed each lamp to the light bar with a wire as short as possible.

Disco Matt:
Take a look over in the Discovery section, narked and I recently wired his light bar using more or less the same setup as mine.

I have four 55w spots, so used 27a cable and a 30a relay with a 20a fuse. As my spots each had short live and earth cables attached I spliced these into a power bus (27a cables zip-tied to the back of the bar, one live, one earth). The bar is earthed via a ring connector attached to one of the mounting bolts.

Don't use scotchlocks, apparently they can't take the currents involved. I soldered all the joints on mine and wrapped them in insulating tape. With hindsight I would use heatshrink sleeving, which worked a treat for the one such splice on narkeds' lights.

The relay that switches the bar on is activated when the headlights are on full beam and an isolating switch is closed.

littlepow:
Scotchlocks are really bad idea for anything over a last ditch attempt repair. They reduce the width of the original wire and aren't upto the job of high current. Get rid before you you have an electrical fire!

marjan:

--- Quote from: littlepow on March 01, 2008, 11:57:12 ---Scotchlocks are really bad idea for anything over a last ditch attempt repair. They reduce the width of the original wire and aren't upto the job of high current. Get rid before you you have an electrical fire!

--- End quote ---

Didn't realise this (Gas Fitter not Electrician  :)), I will be soldering and getting some heat shrink tubing.

marjan:
Hang on a minute, just had second thoughts about this  :?. Scotchlocks are rated at 10amps and I have 1 per lamp at 55w. Watts divided by volts equals amps so each scotchlock is only pulling 4.58 amps.  Think I will leave things as they are  :roll: :roll: :roll:

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