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Cam Belt

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MTyrrell:
Can anyone give me a rough idea how much it will cost to get a garage to change a cam belt on a 2.5 TD land rover engine, local diesel specialist job rather than a main dealer garage.
 I would do it by self but I don't fancy messing too much with the timing of the diesel engine as I’ve herd it's easy to mess up.

Cheers
Matt

Range Rover Blues:
It depends how yu set the timing, and I'm no expert on Land Rovers, but on the Cavalier you measure the fuel pump lobe lift with a special probe and a DTI, then you do some maths and......  get the picture.
With a York diesel (transit) you stick drill bits through the belt pulleys to lock them in position then fit a new belt and tighten everything up.  Not hard!

Porny:
Absolute piece of piddle with the correct tools!!!

Changed the cambelt on my 110" Td just after Christmas and couldn't have been easier.
Bought the tools from Peter at www.Difflock.com, including the one that most people don't bother with that locks the injector pump.
(I bought the timing belt kit that contains the puller to get the damper off and the locking pins, the crank locking tool and the locking pin for the injector pump)

Basically a pin in the flywheel, and one in fuel pump... line the dots up and jobs a good'un.

Only problem I had, and depending on the condition of yours, is I broke the pulley section on the front damper - had gone brittle with age.

Luckely managed to find one at a local breakers (though don't think there that expensive from the dealer)

You have to remove the pulley drives to use the crank locking tool/bar.  (some people don't bother with the tool, and use a breaker bar - one end on the bolt, the other on the chassis - and just bounce the starter, i.e. turn the igntion key, the force of which 'should' undo the bolt - but I really don't like this method)

Apart from that, just make sure you have all the gaskets required, a new belt and a tensioner (don't re-use the old one - chances are it 'WILL' be knackered).

Give a shout if you do decide to do it yourself, can give you some better instructions.  
Shame your not a bit closer, would quite happily give you a hand.


Ian

graham2306:
I paid my tame mechanic just under £100 to do it on my 2.5 non turbo, but it's much the same.  He said I should have done it myself.  All you need is a hub puller everything else locks with bolts.

Cost me that much because all of the water pump bolts sheared where they had corroded in the block and it took him a couple of hours to get them out.  A couple of hours labour from him should have been £30 but he only charged me for one because he took the air wrench to the bolts because he has a bad wrist at the moment.  He reckons if he had put a spanner on them he would have felt how bad they were and heated them first.  I understand it is quite common for the bolts to go and he had even ordered replacements before he started.

Graham

MTyrrell:
thanks, will get an estimate from my garrage and price it up against the cost of the required tools.

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