Vehicle & Technical > Defender
Bad Vibrations
zulublue:
--- Quote from: Edge on January 21, 2008, 20:22:40 ---
--- Quote from: zulublue on January 21, 2008, 10:34:19 ---I have a 90 Truck Cab and when I put my foot down I get lots of vibration though out the motor, if I then take my foot off the gas pedal its as smooth as anything I know the props need replacing, do you think it is just the props causing this or could it be something else.
It has a 2" OME lift on it.
--- End quote ---
I had a similar problem... but i found i could accelerate through the vibration and it stopped... turned out i had lumps of dried mud/clay on the insides of my rims that caused it. The vibration was horrendous, really shook the whole vehicle badly.
--- End quote ---
That does seem to happen a bit with mine, but I think the wheel are clean. I will double check though, or perhaps they need balancing? just seems strange it only happens under drive pressure.
Bob696:
Double cardons are pricy and on 200Tdi's, dont know about 300s, you have to replace the output flange on the T box as well.
I am not aware of the need for a wide angle yoke on the rear prop. It is longer than the front so operates at less of an angle.
Tools for changing a UJ are simple and brutal. Hammer and drift (socket) to get them out. Grease (to stop roller bearings moving) a vice and a two £1 coins to get the new one in.
Where in birmingham are you Zulu? I could possably get over to you to show you how it is done. Half term week is coming up and I can normaly find a couple of hours at the weekend if you are not too far away.
zulublue:
I checked the Prop today and there is play at both ends and also the on the slide, I tried to shake the output flange (sorry if its the wrong term) from the transfer box to the prop, there was a slight movement of about 1mm is this acceptable? or has the bearing gone, if so how easy / hard are they to change.
zulublue:
--- Quote from: Bob696 on January 22, 2008, 06:31:45 ---Double cardons are pricy and on 200Tdi's, dont know about 300s, you have to replace the output flange on the T box as well.
I am not aware of the need for a wide angle yoke on the rear prop. It is longer than the front so operates at less of an angle.
Tools for changing a UJ are simple and brutal. Hammer and drift (socket) to get them out. Grease (to stop roller bearings moving) a vice and a two £1 coins to get the new one in.
Where in birmingham are you Zulu? I could possably get over to you to show you how it is done. Half term week is coming up and I can normaly find a couple of hours at the weekend if you are not too far away.
--- End quote ---
Cheers Bob, I changed the UJ's today, prop feels a lot better to the touch, but I still have the vibration I am going to give it a good going over tomorrow.
zulublue:
I have now had all the wheels balanced, so I can rule that out.
But a new development is when I come to slow stop there is a clunking noise (sorry for the technical term :doh:) which I think is coming from the front Diff area, I drove her on full lock in both dirtections to see if the CV's were knocking but got not noise or vibration could the diff be on the way out?
Getting a bit stuck now?????
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