Vehicle & Technical > Range Rover
Rust Proofing and Chassis Protection
Guardian.:
A HIGH ZINC BASE RED LED PRIMER, I PREFER TO GALV, ONCESET ITS UNTOUCHABLE, AND CHEAP TO BUY, YOU CAN GET 5 LTR TIN FOR ABOUT 30 ISH, WE USED TO PAY ABOUT 22 I THINK FOR QUANTITY.
IF YOUR LOCAL YOU CAN POP IN AND I HAVE A 50LTR DRUM I DONT USE AND CAN TAKE A POTFULL OUT OF THAT.
AND WHEN APPLYING DONT TRY AND MAKE IT LAST, JUST SLAP IT ON AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE.
fezzy192:
i buy all my paint from http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Fascinating-Finishes-Ltd very good and with some red oxide and zinc that keeps the rust at bay a bit
Dr Strangeglove:
When I attacked the underneath of my Rangie I did not jet wash it as their was not a lot of crud on it. If I was going to use a jet wash I would prefer the weather to be warm and leave enough time for everything to dry out after.
As I did mine in December I wire brushed where I could see it needed it then used an airline with a blow gun to get into all the nooks and crannies. This was quite effective as it lifted loose paint and blew moisture out from the many moisture holding spot welded joints on the bodywork. Just one point to note - if you are using compressed air, make sure you need a moisture filter/trap in the airline!
If you are going to paint it use a zinc rich paint with a high zinc content. The two pack paints are the best as they dry harder and as such are more resistant to being scraped off but their may be health and safety issues with two pack so only use it if you know what you are doing.
After painting cover the chassis etc with waxoyl inside and out. If you can, get a good spray applicator. The one I used had a flexible tube add on which had a spray nozzle on the end. This was good for getting inside the chassis as their are quite a few holes in it anyway. I had to open some up slightly to get the tube in. I also drilled 3 or 4 holes in the sill's to do the same with them.
I used a few litres of underseal on mine also. This was on the underside of the body and on the chassis but I must admit I regret this now (not that I have had any problems) as if the underseal starts to come away from the steel it is a moisture trap.
One thought I also had was to mix some zinc powder with the waxoyl. This would not have the "zinc effect" until the waxoyl was displaced but that is the point when you would want the sacrificial properties of the zinc. I would imagine it would need a thorough mixing and the product would need to be very warm to ensure it flowed well. I have not tried it so I do not know if it would work - anyone else have any thoughts on this? You can buy zinc powder off ebay!
Good luck with it mate.
One more point - I was lucky enough to have a friend that let me use his ramp and compressor etc. I you do this on your drive it will be very hard work. I used about 15 lts of waxoyl and approx 3 to 4 lts of underseal. I also came away looking like I had been "daant peeyt" so dress in disposables, use a old hat and have the water on so you can have a looong soak afterwards!!
Regards
Mick
barriesheene:
I dont know what has been done to mine but they made a complete hash of it ! :evil: Everything had been spray painted underneath, spring's etc but now ALL the paint has come away leaving what looks like the underside of a rangie that went down on the titanic and has just been brought back to the surface. MOT guy assures me that it looks worse than it is, but I get the feeling that I'm going to need alot of optrex and knuckle plasters in the summer by the time I've finished
ben_haynes:
I waxoiled mine when i bought it and i will do it again just before the MOT and do it once a year as i know i missed loads of places :oops:
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