Vehicle & Technical > Discovery

Wheel bearing adjustment...how do you do it?

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Iain C:
I'd started another thread on here but I was not too sure what the problem was at the time.  Looks like the old girls needs discs, pads and bearings all round.

Question is, Haynes suggests using a DTI to check the hub bearing endfloat, and I don't have one.  Some people are saying that too loose is kinda OK, to tight and they will be shot in literally a couple of miles.  As it's a 4WD vehicle it's almost impossible to do it by "feel", does anyone have any good tips here on how to get it right?

Thanks in advance!

Jake:
Make sure when you put in new bearings you fit the new bearing race's
If you haven't got a drift (punch) to remove the old ones, buy one (they arn't expensive)
Pack the new bearings with the correct grease (Haynes will tell which, I cant remember right now)
Do up the hub nut tight, then knock it back quarter turn then lock it with the lock nut.
Rotate the hub, it should feel free but not spin wildly
Make sure you use lock tight on all the bolts too
 8)

Iain C:
Nice one, thanks Jake!

Disco-andy:
iv welded a wheel nut to the end of my box spanner for doing the hub nuts, then i do it up to the stage 1/2 in the haynes.  and use loads  and loads of grease.  I fine a round lump of ali i have works a treat as a drift for getting out the old rase's, and iv maschined down an old race just a little to help nock in the new ones.
I hope that helps, i had to do one Saturday in a hail storm, there normally fine to do when not collapsed.

chris9119:
Always check the end float with the wheel on, it gives you more of a feel if the bearings are to tight/loose.

You don't need "loads of grease" you need the correct amount applied correctly....., i.e. make sure it goes all the way through all the races....

Removing the old bearing shells....., if you have an old one, place a cut in it with a grinder (stops it getting stuck)...., can also be used to set the new ones.

Don't forget, fit new seals aswell

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