Vehicle & Technical > Discovery

Changing rear hub bearings...***EDIT, caliper's siezed!***

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Iain C:
After my last off roading day, I think my rear wheel bearings are a bit unwell.  They sound grumbly and with the truck sat on the ground I can grab the top of the tyre and feel movement when I rock it.  I'm not actually driving it at the mo, but I've had a look at the Haynes manual and it looks quite a big job to change them, so here are some questions!

Am I likely to be able to keep the existing bearings and just adjust them?  Or are they probably too far gone?

If I do need to change them, I've heard a rumour that if I put the truck on axle stands and then jack up one side of the axle (with no wheels on) at a time I can pull the halfshafts and do a bearing one side at a time without draining the axle oil...fact or fiction? (only recently changed it and added Forte so I'd rather not drain if poss).  Haynes says "if you don't drain be prepared for some spillage"...are we talking get a tray underneath is to catch a bit or the full Exxon Valdez?

The Haynes manual says I'll need a press to get the old bearings out and the new ones in.  I don't have one...in fact I don't even have a vice.  When I've done propshaft UJs a Workmate style bench has done it, will this be enough?

If I use a socket to press/gently tap the new bearings in, how big does it have to be?  I have everything up to about 32mm, is this big enough? Presumably as long as you start the new bearing off square, a gentle tap with a rubber mallett should be OK?  If not, I can borrow a mate's vice, but it will mean both hubs off together and draining the axle oil.

Haynes manual says that you need a Dial Test Indicator to get the endfloat right, is this true?  Do people always do this or is this good old Haynes getting a bit "first, disconnect the battery" about everything again?  A DTI is quite a posh thing for your average toolkit!

What EXACTLY do I need to buy?  Hub bearing kit, flange gasket and lockwasher x 2?  Anything else? (I have a hub spanner)

The rear discs are slightly pitted, and it looks like a set of pads and discs is only about £25, is it a false economy not to do these at the same time?

Axle stands...I don't have any, can anyone recommend a set?  I don't need Snap-On...just something of reasonable quality and big enough to be useful under my lifted truck.

Thanks very much in advance...I guess it's like any job that you have not done before, easy when you know how but a bit daunting otherwise!

Skibum346:
Ian, You can use one or both pairs of my axle stands.

Don't know about the spillage thing... but my concern would be that the bearings may have given up cuz off road grinding paste got into them... if that's the case there is a good chance that it's also in the axle diff oil. Seems like a false economy to not change it IMHO.

Assuming your bearings are the same as RRC & Disco 1, then a drift (hole punch, blunt cold chisel etc) will get the bearing races out... then you can use an old one turned the other way as a drift to get the new ones in straight.

YES! Do the brakes at the same time... otherwise your gonna have to undo all your good work when you DO do the brakes. It might also be worthwhile getting oil seals as well if appropriate.

Good luck

Skibum

Iain C:
Thanks mate...might well take you up on the axle stand offer.  That said it's time I got my own...where did yours come from as they are quite good!

(PS think I still have your pop rivet gun... :oops: )

Any thoughts on the DTI?  Do I really need one?

hobbit:
Have a good look at the discs before you get the parts (would be worth doing if they look like they need it, make a list up of what you want, seals, locking nuts and tab, gaskets etc, pads and possibly pad retaining kit

A hub nut spanner to hand is useful as well :wink:

If you havn't got a bench or something to hold the hub while working, stack up your wheels and put the hub inside while tapping out the old bits :wink:


Have fun

Skibum346:

--- Quote from: "Iain C" ---Thanks mate...might well take you up on the axle stand offer.  That said it's time I got my own...where did yours come from as they are quite good!

(PS think I still have your pop rivet gun... :oops: )

Any thoughts on the DTI?  Do I really need one?
--- End quote ---

1. Dreaded Halfords! The old blue set were 2 ton so the yellow ones are 3 ton... for safety!  :shock:  Machine Mart do some good cheap ones with an easier to use ratchet system.

2. No worries... you can pop round with it some night (not tonight!)  :lol:  :lol:

3. Done a few now... seen a few done... never seen a DTI gauge...  :shock:  :roll:  :wink:

Can also recomend the tyre thing for working on the hub... though I was never quite clever enough to stack them into a mini workbench! The studs slip into the holes in the wheels and hold the hub really well, particularly when loosening/tightening the disk nuts.


BTW... I have a hub nut spanner if you don't have one... but it should be part of your kit and only costs about £5 ya tightwad!
Skibum

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