Vehicle & Technical > Range Rover

PERKINS PROBLEMS

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Miniman:
Who told you that if the glow plugs come on at the same time it will flatten the battery? first the 3 litre has a single glow plug in the manifold and that alone will draw may be 30 Amps. A starter motor may draw 250amps I very much doubt that the heater plug is going to flatten your battery that quick. But yes its a good idea to have it on a push button. I was toying with the idea of wiring it to the starter solinoid so that when you turn the key to crank it comes on.... Will try this at some point and let you know.....

hobbit:

--- Quote from: "Miniman" ---Who told you that if the glow plugs come on at the same time it will flatten the battery? first the 3 litre has a single glow plug in the manifold and that alone will draw may be 30 Amps. A starter motor may draw 250amps I very much doubt that the heater plug is going to flatten your battery that quick. But yes its a good idea to have it on a push button. I was toying with the idea of wiring it to the starter solinoid so that when you turn the key to crank it comes on.... Will try this at some point and let you know.....
--- End quote ---



Use a blow lamp down the inlet, should do the job, all the one glow plug is an igniter to burn diesel to take in warm air :wink:

gtomo2:
mine has 4 glow plugs one for each cyl  :shock:

hobbit:
I didn't read the whole thread
But
If they are not working you can still do it, all the glow plugs do is warm up the air anyway, or disconnect the glow plug circuit and try to start this way

Miniman:
A flamestart consists of a narrow bore nozzle connected by copper tube to some pressurised part of the fuel system (usually uses a take-off pipe from the top of the fuel filter housing). There is a small valve built into the nozzle which I think is controlled by a bimetallic strip, although it may be a small solenoid valve. In front of the nozzle is a coil of resistance wire. There is a spade terminal mounted on the body, which is earthed via the manifold into which it is screwed.

When you feed power to the spade terminal, the coil becomes white hot, and the valve opens. When you then turn the engine over, diesel is sprayed out of the nozzle onto the coil, where it ignites. The whole assembly sits at the outer end of the inlet manifold, and hot air is drawn into the combustion chambers. When the power is cut, the fuel supply shuts off. Very simple - you need a flat aluminium plate welded to the inlet manifold somewhere near no. 1 cylinder, then drilled and tapped to take the flamestart.

Take a look at a Perkins 4.203 or 4.236 diesel to see the installation - these engines were used in various tractors, combines, Dodge 50 series vans and also turn up a lot in old Range Rovers. There is a tractor and combine breaker somewhere out near Haverhill - can't remember the name, but he's in the Yellow Pages.

A flamestart draws a lot less current than a set of heater plugs, which is handy. I have never had any trouble starting flamestart equipped diesels, even at minus ten degrees. The Ford Transit 2.5Di (which has no heater plugs as standard) offered a flamestart option for Arctic use.

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