Vehicle & Technical > Defender

Rods, Links, and Props!

<< < (5/7) > >>

BigSi:
Well done…I never even spotted that locknut on the end!!! So if I removed the existing rod would there be a threaded end for me to screw the new HD rod onto?  :-k  :-k  :-k  :-k

andycwb:

--- Quote from: "TheBlueySilverThing" ---2lb lump hammer works for me

--- End quote ---


LOL.  I read the first post and thought "2lb lump hammer".  Then saw your reply below it.

In my case, I figured that since I'd got a completely new heavy duty drag link and track rod, it didn't matter if I damaged the existing ones getting them out, so the 2lb lump hammer seemed a good solution.

Then I read the rest of the thread, and realised I made exactly the same mistake as you... packed everything away, came back into the house ready to bitch at Paddocks in the morning, and then saw the locknut, and started inventing new combinations of swearwords.

If it's the same as the kit I put on the Dakar, you unscrew the bit that connects to the joint on the steering box drop arm, and screw that into the new one.  Fit everything in place, tighten up the locknuts remembering that one end will be a left hand thread, and with a bit of luck your tracking will still be right!  I did mine with the wheels still on the ground to make sure nothing moved - easy on the Dakar since I only actually need the jack to lift the wheels off the ground - I can work under it easily without a jack!

BigSi:
Well its certainly been a productive day. Removed the steering damper (had to cut the end off to remove it), removed the drop arm (a few shakes and off it came!), and removed the drag link bar.

Only problem is that I can’t remove the swan arm (is that right?), from the end of the drag link bar. Have it soaking in oil for the night, so hopefully by the morning it will feel a little freer (is that a word?).

Also decided that a canvas back would be easier and look better than a ifor Williams back. Can’t decide if I should have one made, or buy one and have it altered to accommodate the roll cage?

Has anybody got any pic of how the canvas top secures to the truck cab?

extreme90:

--- Quote from: "jeep94" ---Well its certainly been a productive day. Removed the steering damper (had to cut the end off to remove it), removed the drop arm (a few shakes and off it came!), and removed the drag link bar.

Only problem is that I can’t remove the swan arm (is that right?), from the end of the drag link bar. Have it soaking in oil for the night, so hopefully by the morning it will feel a little freer (is that a word?).

Also decided that a canvas back would be easier and look better than a ifor Williams back. Can’t decide if I should have one made, or buy one and have it altered to accommodate the roll cage?

Has anybody got any pic of how the canvas top secures to the truck cab?
--- End quote ---


this is how i remove the stubborn bit that drop arm goes onto and also the damper ( you call it the swan arm ? )

leave the trackrod end on the pass swivel housing so as the draglink cannot move

then stick a bar through the swan arm and undo

dan

BigSi:
This is the part.



I’ve basically removed the drag arm and the drag link from the vehicle. Have to unscrew both parts to fit the new drag link.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page