Vehicle & Technical > Defender

Soundproofing

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redhand:
A good option for the roof and sides of the rear tub is foil backed closed cell foam laminate floor underlay. this is easy to stick on aith a spray or contact adhesive is easy to cut and not that expensive. waterproof and because it's foil lined it's also has good thermal insulation properties and reduces condensation

You can use it on the floor and wheel boxes but you'd need to put rubber matting over the top of it to protect it from wear & tear.

Needalanny:
I've heard nothing but good comments about the WrightOffRoad acoustic sound proofing they produce.  It fits in the cab area on the floor, seat box, and inside of part of bulkhead. can be hose piped out too (good for lack of door seals).  That is meant to make a noticable difference to the cab area for sound.
Also you could go for a bit more, and get the Noisekiller bulkhead mat to further reduce the engine noise.
As for the rest of the noise, i've put Noisekiller soundproofing in the rear of my 110, on the floor, wheel arch sides, tops and body tub sides.  The hard top has headlining from a mini, but thats not for noiseproofing thats for no condensation in the winter, and less panel booming.

It's gonna cost for decent stuff. You get what you pay for.

matt

spinkster:
ive got the wright offroad kit and the difference is amazing........totally worth the money (about 200 quid)...............plus the fella is a thoroughly nicve chap to boot!!!

Cassillis:
Along the same lines, would similar fixes help stop my tin top roof from bouncing at about 50+mph?

Sounds a bit like this blokes in the back.


I expect to hear 'Stairway to Heaven' start at any moment  :roll:

Or do i need to brace it in some way?

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